Kenpachi

Turbo recommends pulling air box and battery for better access.

 

Non-turbo H4 recommends pulling air box but leaves battery in place (but disconnected).

 

H6 is the worst. It requires removing air box, battery, battery carrier and a few extra brackets for access and shows detailed diagrams for chaining multiple extensions and a universal joint to get to the plugs.

 

No mention of lifting the engine for any of them, though I imagine it probably would make life easier. Those side mounted plugs were never much fun to change in the 4th gen (haven't personally tried 5th gen yet). Can't beat an I4 in that regard.

Interesting. Text below is from the 5th gen service manual (GT engine). No mention of lifting the engine. Fairly simple task, according to the shop manual...

 

2. Spark Plug

A: REMOVAL

Spark plug: Refer to “SPECIFICATION” for the spark plug. <Ref. to IG(H4DOTC)-2, SPECIFICATION, General Description.>

 

1. RH SIDE

1) Disconnect the ground cable from battery.

2) Remove the air cleaner case. <Ref. to IN(H4DOTC)-8, REMOVAL, Air Cleaner Case.>

3) Disconnect the connector from ignition coil.

4) Remove the ignition coil.

NOTE: Turn #3 ignition coil by 180 degrees to remove it.

5) Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket.

 

2. LH SIDE

1) Remove the battery. <Ref. to SC(H4SO)-26, REMOVAL, Battery.>

2) Disconnect the connector from ignition coil.

3) Remove the ignition coil.

NOTE: Turn #4 ignition coil by 180 degrees to remove it.

4) Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket.

 

B: INSTALLATION

1. RH SIDE

Install in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque (Spark plug): 21 N·m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.5 ft-lb)

Tightening torque (Ignition coil): 16 N·m (1.6 kgf-m, 11.8 ft-lb)

 

2. LH SIDE

Install in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque (Spark plug): 21 N·m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.5 ft-lb)

Tightening torque (Ignition coil): 16 N·m (1.6 kgf-m, 11.8 ft-lb)

 

C: INSPECTION

1) Check the spark plug for abnormalities. If defective, replace the spark plug.

Has anyone checked the wiring diagram yet? Factory options like the lighting normally already have a plug somewhere on the main harness for it.

 

I wouldn't think it would be to hard to find, that way it would work just like stock.

The factory connector is up in the passenger A pillar (design fail for Subaru). The factory lighting harness is needlessly long and the routing is overly complex as a result. IMO, you'll be much happier tapping into a convenient power source somewhere in/near the center console.

Based on the pics, it looks like you removed the clear plastic halo ring that distributes the light around the outside edge of the cup holder rim. Assuming this isn't just an optical illusion, were you forced to remove the ring to make the auto store LEDs fit or did you simply remove it because you prefer the look?

It is likely the same setup as the 2010 models, where the relay is under the front bumper cover. There are pics in the 5th gen forum, if you're interested.