ObiWanToby

Will probably take me two hours then. Everything little I do always ends up with complications. the 6 hour brake job from hell was the last struggle (sheared a bolt).

Definitely probably have a vacuum leak, figured those o-rings are shot. Was there enough room to keep the intercooler on or did that come off?

Since EJ255's have plastic intake manifolds Subaru decided to use rubber o-rings for sealing the manifold to TGV's (probably because plastic manifold can't be torqued to same specs as aluminum with metal gaskets). After 10 years rubber will dry out and compress, which can lead to boost leaks. My learning views constantly would show +5 to +10 in 0-<5.60 Airflow ranges, which a lot of people mentioned could be a boost leak.

 

Intake Manifold Gaskets Part Number: 14035AA492

You will need 4, they should run you up about $20.

 

I replaced them by leaving the intake manifold on and just propping it up with a big screw driver.

 

1

The 18whp/34wtq gain is amazing, but I wont get too excited until I can replicate it a few times. Second run was 5*F warmer (based on Accuweather which is what I use for temp/pressures). Looking at the log, IAT was higher by 2*F on second run, so that should have hurt performance. Both runs had 1 IAM, but second run had much more timing, 10* more on average, which explains the power gains!

 

Update: Did another run (10 miles after ecu reset), this one at 73*F, power is back to normal, but torque stayed up. Reading STI forums it seems like it's common for these cars to make more power on fresh ecu reset, and with time ECU pulls back timing due to knock/false knock.

 

What probably happened is, with the boost leak, wastegate would be closed longer to maintain the target PSI, which would cause the turbo to overspin/go outside of it's efficiency. When the turbo is outside of it's efficiency map it just blows hot air, which causes timing to be retarded due to knock. I will drive around and see if my learning view for A range is still high.

Just popping it off seems like not too bad of a job, how long did that take you with that technique?

Great guide. Used 12 quarts of AMSOIL 'Signature Series' Multi Vehicle ATF. Could be placebo but shifts are wonderfully smooth after the flush.

Storing my funnel and extender hose without making my garage smell like ATF is the new challenge. Should probably look at doing my diff gear oils too. 75w90 AMSOIL, or 75w110? Redline seems popular as well. Not looking forward to getting the plugs off. Took a few hours to do a brake job because of the stuck bolts, quite sore now. Wish I had a proper lift.

At 150k, here's to hoping for another 150k (transmission was done previously, not the 1st service).

Used.

http://i.imgur.com/yDUe27g.jpg?1

New.

http://i.imgur.com/LRyQSO9.jpg

Man, I better start reading about this gauge, might have to get it and install it.

The manual include the install instructions? I see a lot about the vent but the sender unit and details seems slightly confusing to me.

In general do people change their viscosities? Summer months here, occasionally we will go a few days with 95-100 degree temperatures (Ohio).

5w30 is sufficient at those temperatures still? I know the manual has some chart, stating 10w30 or 10w40 might be worth considering.

I was able to read my Rom correctly (took a bit) and save the file. Does this mean I should be able to write? (Looking into an infamous1 tune).

Also, this has the potential to really screw crap up. What is the "oh sh**" procedure if something goes wrong. Does it even happen often? I'd like to get an infamous1 tune, rather not get a local tuner since he is trusted and for sure knows the LGT tricks (#2 cylinder timing ...etc).

Like flashing a bios or rom on my phone, always makes me very nervous. Car flash , much more is at stake! But much more to gain!

I report another success. I used the latest drivers linked in the first post for Windows 7 x64. Romraider worked , at least for logging. Make sure you set the rate to 4800. Unplug the device and plug it back in with the ignition on and laptop on incase it doesn't work right away.

One step closer to an infamous1 tune! Honestly finding a place to do 3rd gear pulls, 96-103 Mph will be hard. I'd like to go etune rather than have a local tuner with a dyno do it, just because of all the great feedback.

I've been using Castrol 5-30 SynBlend. I seems like it c(w)ould be the best of both worlds, and despite the additional cost, I change my oil between 3-3.5kmi, and sometimes sooner when it looks darker. For example, I just changed it after data logging for stage 2 tuning; seemed like a good idea after the logging "abuse". Maybe I just like feeling like I'm keeping the engine (and turbo) clean......that and using my Fumoto valve!!! :)

Though color has nothing to do with how the oil performs, it seems the last two times I have changed my oil (at 3750 OCI), my oil has been golden clear, like a darker honey. Almost feels like a waste.

If a proper large capacity fuel filter could be installed, the OCI should go to at least 5000.