rosta

You need to attach pictures and fill out the template for selling cars

 

 

After posting, I was trying to delete it but couldn't.

Gauging interest

 

Located in Frisco, Texas.

180,744 miles

 

You can smell coolant in the engine compartment and inside the cabin once operating temp is reached. Possible heater core failure? Worse?

 

June 2019-

Head gaskets

Head bolts

Valve job

Thermostat

Denso radiator + hoses

Clutch

Spark plugs

Timing belt

 

July 2019-

VF40 turbo

Oil cooler

Intake manifold turbo inlet

Oil pan

Breather hose

Used starter

 

September 2019-

A/C compressor

 

The rest of the story, I am the original owner, CA car until June 2019. Typical wear and tear for a 14+ year old car. Presents well for its age. Paint - clear coat chipping on all door handles. Front and rear bumpers show most damage.

 

Upgrades-

PDE catless up pipe

RCE Tarmac I coilovers

Front and rear Swift sway-bars

Whiteline front adjustable endlinks

Kartboy rear endlinks

18X7.5" Rota Tarmac 2/Group A w/ Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3

Kartboy Short throw shifter and bushings

Momo knob

COBB AP

Jazzy Aux in installed

4 Polk db650 speakers

 

Subaru crossbars w/ 2 Yakima HighRoller bike attachments

 

I think that covers most of the important items.

 

Happy to discuss in detail anything about the car and its history. 14 years 2 months of dependable service and then this.

 

Thought I'd post this up here before posting on CL.

 

Thanks

Another Moog fail to report. Replaced right front. First drive cruise control functioning but with a surging sensation. Same with second drive. Third drive no more surge. Fourth drive flashing cc light. Remove and return to Rock Auto. Install original until order from Fred Beans arrives. CC is smooth and stable as before. Wish I had never installed it. Lesson learned. Don't let it happen to you.

Anybody here out at Thunderhill Thursday Oct 19th? It was a private track day with the Philip Holmes Group. I just saw pics of a BSM LGT sedan #59 with Autowest paper plates. Looks like you were having fun. Some of those guys are my peeps and I've been trying to get out there too. Good to see an LGT out there.

 

http://gotbluemilk.com/web061019/59/imagepages/image10.html

 

Ross

dan,

 

speeds-yes. we (cycling guys) are referring to how fast or slow the strut is allowed to return to it's extended state.

 

i certainly get firm vs soft but, for example: is a strut set at full soft adjusted to slow the return rate of speed or is it allowing the strut to extend as quickly as possible? does this make sense?

 

oh yeah, you are the perfect person to ask about my current set up. i installed my swifts (on oe struts) last saturday and would like to minimize the bounciness and hopefully the jarring when hitting a pothole or similar. the bouncy part is the most annoying. yes, the tokico's are on my shortlist but at that point why not sell what i have and get megan racing coilovers? i'll end up roughly at the same $'s. what would be the downside?

 

btw, for those who may think i'm speaking negatively about the swifts, i am not. i like the stance and the firmness the springs themselves bring. i'm just not crazy about how the struts are mating with the springs. here's an odd observation after installing the spring: my brakes feel better?! i attribute it to less movement in the suspension. in any case it's a nice side benefit.

 

thanks

Dampening ?

 

Forgive my ignorance but as I'm in the bicycle business and we seem to describe rebound dampening as fast or slow. How does this correlate to soft and stiff/firm when describing strut dampening adjustments? My best guess is fast=stiff and slow=soft. On a bike, we tend to adjust the rebound to be as fast as possible without bucking the rider off. With a shock with adjustable compression, we can tune what we describe as soft vs firm. I'm just trying to wrap my pea brain around the different terminology used in the auto industry.

 

To KISS:

Soft=?

Stiff=?

 

TIA

ABP LGT Wagon 5EAT w/bug deflector, hitch bike rack and red SC @ Alpine Inn this evening. I was parked further down by the fence with the orange road bike on top (see avatar). Looked stock, stock wheels, no tint, etc...

not an official lgt spotting but close.

sunday 9:10am, north bound 680 between bernal and stoneridge (pleasanton), goto racing trailer towed by a motorhome.

i'm down to stg 1.5, 2-drivers side and 1-passenger side.

it's pupupurrrrrfect!

i tried stg 1 but it just sounded stock. btw, ss washers are much thinner than run of the mill galvanized type.

specDiddy-point taken

we'll just have to agree to disagree.

i like the mod because it's allows me to determine what noise level i will be comfortable with when i do graduate to stg 2 and a tbe. it's a good tool imo. having someone throw me revs at a stoplight is NOT my goal.

^ i agree.

i'm about to knock it down a bit more this weekend. i had some idiot in a Z try to race me last night. this indicates to me it's a bit too loud and no, i don't rev it just to make noise.

I.D. is 3/8"

O.D. is ? standard size, just under 1"

I'm probably cheaper than the next guy, but I cannot believe that people are falling all over themselves about how great AN EXHAUST LEAK SOUNDS! If you look up ricer in the dictionary, intentional exhaust leaks have to be right up there with cut springs and 3 foot tall aluminum wings...

 

i don't think people are falling over themselves with this. it's just cheap, fast, tunable and easily reversible. if asked, i'm going to say it's a gohan racing exhaust. i've also come up with a formula to help determine how many washers to use: 50/your age=# washers. here's mine, 50/42=1.19, this is probably where i'll end up (currently at 2)

 

btw, i like rice (the food product).

 

sansei

done!

sounds good.

i bought ss washers (3/8" BTW) and started with a stack of 3 and am now down to 2. i'll probably knock it down to 1 on the passengers side.

this mod may improve my mileage since i'll be keeping the revs down around town.

 

thanks hog

two this morning.

fremont-just after 6am, nursery, silver lgt sedan

fremont-7:15 (checked my clock), spec b, south bound mission blvd crossing mowry.

Dave,

 

Did you have to order your patch cords?

 

Now that my ipod has arrived I'm deciding whether to wait for this http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/tuneflex/index.php or hardwire something trick instead.

 

Ross

Can you tell I didn't read the instructions yet? I didn't know about Jazzy's zip-tie method.

 

Here's the panel mount I was thinking about - http://www.datapro.net/products/1224.html

I've got to believe the plastic of the armrest floor is thin enough for that.

 

I forgot one detail for my "clean" install. The gf filter - there's a 3.5M to 3.5F at crutchfield. too bad that makes another pair of connections.

 

That cable looks perfect, wish I had found it before my install. The threaded depth doesn't look much different than the one I used http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103451&cp=&kw=panel+jack&parentPage=search . I could be wrong but I firmly suggest pulling the center console out (easy) and see what you have to work with. I had lots of ideas that got nixed once I saw what I had to work with. My original plans were to put a jack in the upper cubby but there was too much crap around the sides and I didn't want to put it all the way in the back.

 

Also, be careful when tightening the nut on the jack. I pulled one out and had to solder a new one. Since you're looking at a pre-fabed cable it'll be a more expensive and less convenient. Food for thought.

 

Good Luck and post pics when done.

 

Ross

Has anyone come up with a nice way of securing the cable to the Jazzy? I don't expect it to pull out, since the other end will be mounted in a panel, but I'd like to be more cautious.

 

I followed Jazzy's method of zip-tieing it to the radios power cord. I cinched it down tight and don't expect it to allow the jack to disconnecct. I used a 3' male 1/8" to RCA and they RCA's ended up just in front of the shifter. 3' seems like the perfect length to gain access if you want to change your cables down the line. This was pure dumb luck on my part.

 

"If I mount the extender cord jack inside my armrest and route the XM cord to there as well, I can plug in XM (looking totally stock) or put the iPod in my cupholder iPod stand and plug it in using the little armrest cable cutout."

 

I had planned on installing the jack in the center armrest as well but found the plastic was likely to be too thick for the jack I had from RS. Granted this was just my best guess but I didn't want to drill holes to find out later it wasn't going to work. I don't have the tools to thin out the plastic if it needed it. The other issue I ran into was space. Make sure you consider location before soldering the jack. Both of mine have the cable parallel to the jack. Orienting the cable 90 degrees may allow for different set ups.

 

 

I finally found time to install my jazzy board. Everything went well, much easier than I expected. It took longer than I had planned but that was entirely selfinflicted. I found plenty of helpful advise in this thread which helped ease my anxiety.

 

I wanted to keep things as stealthy as possible so I decided to use panel mounted jacks. This certainly increased the difficulty factor (the last time I soldered anything was 10 years ago), but with helpful advice from the guy at Radio Shack I pushed forward. The position I used next to the lighter may not be ideal since the male plug must not be too thick. I liked this spot based on it's proximity to a power source and it already had a hole there. The second location is based on my current set-up.

 

I used the GLI from RS and ended up buying most of the remaining supplies from RS as well. I had planned on taking a picture of my "Frankencable" but got too caught up in the install to stop and take pics. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have purchased the GLI from Crutchfield with the mini plugs. This would have made the "Frankencable" less scary looking. Probably cheaper too.

 

Anyhow, I would like to thank Nathan for taking the bull by the horn and saving us from FM modulator hell. To those still on the fence, DO IT! I don't have a nice dry garage to work in, a vast tool selection or a great deal of electronic experience. For locals who are on the fence, I'm offering my help for those who may need a bit of a nudge to get this done.

 

Thanks again to Jazzy and his skillz.

 

Ross

 

Here are a few pics of the finished product.

Jazzy,

 

I have no intent of hijacking this thread. I do however have an idea for the install. Please see http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25215&highlight=retractable+cord

 

Thanks,

 

Ross

My best sighting to date. Mainly because it was parked (Fremont Kohl's) around 8:30pm. It was my rich twin (sans a scratch on the passenger door), ABP Limited Wagon 5MT and crossbars. Tinted windows, I'm thinking 30% back 5 and 50% fronts. It looked stock aside from the tint but you never know. I tried to unlock my car as you were driving by but I was too far away. We'll see if you check out this site.

Hey Rosta

is that your blue legacy? im from union city and i drive an atlantic blue lgt wagon

see ya around!

 

So I have a twin in UC. I'm in Niles and travel through UC to work in Hayward. I've seen only one other ABP wagon in Fremont. Currently I'm sporting a roof rack with two bike attachments. I'll keep an eye out for you.

 

Ross

Here's some East Bay action. I saw 2 LGT's on my normal commute through town. Morning-Silver Limited Wagon, turning left on Decoto. Evening-SWP Sedan, attractive blonde driver, west bound Alvarado-Niles. They both seem stock but you never know. ;-)