08LGT80

hi everyone,

my car has been making this loud clanking noise under the intercooler so I took it to the shop and was told I need a clutch and flywheel. what is a good clutch and flywheel I should be running? and how much? my car's internals are unmodified. any recommendations are appreciated.

hey everyone,

i'm freaking bored out of my mind.. what's everyone doing this weekend? any meets and cruises?

Anyone want together this week for a cruise somewhere? I'm in Portland.

too bad ur so far away! i only have a few hours on tuesday for a quick jaunt around the seattle/bellevue/issaquah area

just installed these babies today!!

http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx200/hksensation/new%20wheels/0622111539.jpghttp://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx200/hksensation/new%20wheels/0622111455.jpghttp://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx200/hksensation/new%20wheels/0622111352.jpghttp://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx200/hksensation/new%20wheels/0622111351a.jpghttp://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx200/hksensation/new%20wheels/0622111351.jpg

I would go with these. You should mention budget and size.

what wheel is this? they'd look sick in 18 or 19 inches on a white or dgm LGT w/ hks silent hipowers or apexi n1 exhaust! i'm going for a jdm touring car or time attack car look!

I was wondering, with all the fog light HID install and independent fogs, is anyone running them always 100% on the "on" position?

 

Like you just leave the HID's on all the time, when you turn off and on your car? If so how are they holding up against the starting? As in, are they always lighting up on the first start-up, or you have to turn them off then back on?

 

That's what I'm wondering! I'm hesitating since I run my fog's as drl's and well I'd like to go HID route, but don't want to always turn them off when shutting the car, and turning them back on when turning on the car...

 

JP

i turn my lights on after i start the car and turn the lights off before i turn off the car! i heard from others that this method will make the kit last longer.

does the eibach springs have a softer spring rate than stock?

http://subiwiki.com/wiki/index.php/B..._Modifications

i'm looking @ the eibach but want a stiffer spring rate.

Full exhaust would be an aftermarket header, UP, DP, catback (mid/y/cans)

Thanks man!!

You could always leave the mid/y stock and get a nice set of cans (like AVOs) to add a bit of rumble without it being too loud.

will leaving the mid/y pipes stock free up any restrictions on exhaust flow? what parts make a FULL exhaust system?

The DOT standard for headlamps alignment is as follows: (this is the california standard which I'm sure is more then fine for everywhere else considering the stiffness of rules and regulations we are faced with)

 

The standard states that a vehicle's headlights must be at 25ft away 2 1/2 inches below the given height of the headlight. To accomplish this I have written out a guide for you guys that just are new to this or for those of you that have been wanting to do this but aren't really sure how high or low you should go.

 

Ok to start here's some stuff that will be needed.

 

You'll need to have a flat surface with a flat wall and plenty of flat ground to back up 25ft away from the wall.

 

Tools needed:

Tape Measure

Tape

8mm wrench or ratchet

phillips head screwdriver to remove snorkus.(intake section)

 

(tape works good for all the markings you'll be doing).

 

Cliff Notes:

Mark 1 = Center of the Vehicle.

Mark 2 = Height from the ground to the center of the Lens.

Mark 3 = Height from 25ft away that lower arc of beam should be at. (See 2nd Arc Picture)

Mark 4 = Distance from center of the Vehicle to the center of the Lens.

 

NOTICE: If you follow these instructions you will have a DOT approved alignment and will not be blinding oncoming drivers.

 

1. Pull up to the wall and mark the center of your car on the wall and your car. Mark 1 In the Diagram.

 

2. Measure the height from the ground to the center of your headlight (the center of the projector lens. Measure from Ground to Mark 2 and put Mark 2 on the wall.

 

3. Measure from the center of the car to the center of the Lens. Mark 1 to Mark 4 and put Mark 4 on the wall.

 

4.Measure from Mark 2 down 2 1/2 inches. Mark 2 Measure down 2 1/2 inches and put Mark 3 on the wall.

 

Your tape on the wall should now look like that of the diagram in the picture.

 

5. Use your tap measure and measure back 25ft from the wall and mark the ground at 25 ft away.

 

6. Put the tap measure right up next to your tires and proceed to back up until your front tire is at the 25ft mark. IMPORTANT!!! Be sure to keep the center of your car aligned with the center mark on the wall if you don't do so then your marks are now useless. I find using the tap measure helps you back up straight because you can use it as a guide with it extended out for you to back up next to (sort of like a curb)

 

7. Now adjust your lamps as needed as to align the lower section of the arc to line 3.

 

8. If your horizontal aim is off to much you can remove the cover that is on the bolt for the horizontal alignment and adjust as needed. (see picture of bolts location. The bolt is on the outside section of the lens cap towards the fender at the top of the headlight.)

 

Thats it your DONE!!!!!! being that you have now aligned your headlights to the DOT standard you can drive around worry free of blinding your fellow motorist.

 

UPDATED PICS:

The lower arc is the lower section of the light beam as opposed to where it arc's upwards to the top arc section.

 

Here's a diagram I drew up of how your's should look on the wall and how the lights should be aimed to that diagram.

 

NOTE: The higher arc is not what you are trying to aim here its the lower arc that you are trying to aim to the correct height.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u280/garrett804/Picture2copy.jpg

__________________

 

yeah their are bolts on the back of the headlight that can adjust the horizontal aim and the vertical aim.

 

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u280/garrett804/IMG_0343.jpg

If there is any questions or concerns just feel free to PM me or post them up.

is this for 2005 model only? i have a 2008 lgt and have a vertical adjustment on the top of the light assembly by the car frame.

I wonder if you mean me -- I'm actually not sure whether anyone on here has apexi cans besides me. Mine aren't this model, though, and were rebranded as wangan cans. And they're not fart cans, thank goodness - they're actually a little on the quiet side unless you've really got your foot in it, and then they're more like a deep growl than a raspy snarl. I put a couple clips in this thread a while back.

how do u like the apexi exhaust? i'm thinking about getting the n1 evolutions. what r ur opinions on that one?

I hope to have a video to add to this soon. Recently installed a Fujitsubo Super legalis R with invidia catless.... Gone is the Autospeed HFC and megan quad... SHould sound yummy!

Can't wait for your video!! I'm thinking of the legalis R as well!

^The '06 SpecBs all came with black/silver dash, tan headliner, and red leather seats. Woodtrim was not an option because all 500 vehicles that were made were identical (with the exception of a couple options...momo shifter, sti short shifter, and spoiler. I believe that is all of them).

ic.. thanks! what about the 08 spec b's? what are the differences between the 08 spec b's and 08 LGT Limiteds?

hi everyone,

i just wanted to ask all the spec b owners if their spec b have the silver trim around the center console, glovebox, and near the door handles or do some models have the cherry wood trim as well? I have an 08 2.5GT Limited and have the wood trim.