nonsense

Happy to report that Carr Subaru here in Portland did a great job on the recall. Every looks great Also talked with the service advisor about getting the track car in. I hadn’t done even the first recall on it as I done want any shop monkeys messing with the car. My advisor is willing to let me pull the car into their service bay, watch them replacement it and then pull the car back out.

I had both airbag recalls done at Carr Subaru and they did a great job. No sign that they took anything apart.

Your saying you've read that its a 2.2 or 3.3 ohm for airbag sensors? or in this statement are you referring to the up pipe temp sensor from this original thread?

Yes, I've seen sever youtube videos that reference 2.2 or 3.3 ohms. It's not uncommon when people put race seats in a car that have seat airbags

just search "seat airbag sensor resistor" for your specific car

The sensor on the up pipe is a temperature sensor that provides temp data to the ECU. The ECU knows that a certain range of voltage is "good" so therefore won't produce a CEL. 2.2k ohm of resistance put that voltage in the correct range, tricking the ECU into thinking there is an operational sensor.

Now, for your airbag sensor, it's hard to say what the ECU is expecting. So that's the million dollar question, what resistor. I have read both a 2.2 ohm and 3.3 ohm (NOT 2.2k or 3.3k ohm which is 2200/3300, but 2.2/3.3) resistors are correct. I guess it depends on the car, but the concept is exactly the same as this. I'd suggest searching "seat airbag resistor" for your particular car

I started getting an OCV CEL today so I decided to run a flush and oil change along with popping the OCVs out to inspect/clean. The drivers side one popped out pretty easily but I had to get it started with a screw driver. That's when I noticed that the valve didn't look like they did in pics I had seen. Turns out the body was still in the engine and the solenoid had separated. Luckily I was able to remove the parts without any issues (I did slide a powerful magnet into the hole in case I was missing anything). Anyone seen this before? I guess I'll replace them instead of cleaning.

Anyone had success (or failure) with aftermarket ones? Rock Auto has a selection of aftermarket OCVs for 1/2 the price of OEM

Since they were ending the upgrade plan and holding a 10% off sale, I pulled the trigger on the upgrade. They got me. No complaints, it's an awesome product.

Other than the LCD screen, is there really any difference? My V2 has sat in the garage since the day I got it (hooked it up, added tune, put in garage so it doesn't get stolen).

I can have pretty much any gauge I need using my bluetooth OBDII dongle and my phone. I don't have to worry about hiding it when I park. I'm having a hard time justifying spending $300 on another LCD.

Hey guys, I have a question pertaining to this old thread. Say I cannot find a catless uppipe. Could I rod out the stock uppipe and cap the sensor hole, then do the resister mod? Would that obtain the same result? I would prefer to find a used factory catless uppipe, but after several days of looking on the Nasioc classified page, I cannot find one for sale (ok, there is one, but it's an old ad, and the seller has not responded to PM).

 

H2OSB

Technically yes, but you would have to be extremely careful that every last bit of material is removed because anything that rattles loose later is taking a trip through your turbo. I don't think the risk is worth it

Or the alternative - disconnect the airbag and make sure passengers wears a seat belt.

You realize that the airbag isn't supposed to be used instead of a seat belt right? Not saying you don't, but I've seen a few comments here that indicate that airbags only help when someone isn't wearing a seat belt. It's called the SRS (supplemental restraint system), as in to supplement the primary restraint system (your seat belt). Seat belts are meant to stretch and give (a lot) in the event of a crash. The airbag is there to slow down your face so it doesn't smash into the steering wheel or dash, as well as stop whiplash when rapidly decelerating your body while your head keeps going. While the belt is there to keep you from going through the windshield or submarining under the dash

I would very highly advise against ignoring this recall and either leaving the defective part in there, or disabling the SRS. I especially wouldn't go posting about it on a public forum. If someone is injured or killed in your car because of it (even after you've sold it) it will be very easy to hold you liable.

All this because the dealer *might* scratch the dash or introduce a rattle? Seriously get over it and get it done, then deal with any issues as they come up.

Or maybe Europeans aren't flipping idiots. They are probably weighing the very small number of people who have actually been injured against the number of times airbags have saved people, and are also considering the environmental factors of High Heat and Humidity that contribute to the failures, whereas in the US, if ONE person dies in an accident, we flip the f*%# out and demand that no one ever die again.

13 Deaths worldwide so far, and counting, but hey it's an overreaction

You guys are going to extreme lengths here.

 

Have the dealer do the airbag replacement and ask them nicely to be careful in reassembling the dash. When you go pick up your car, press on every dash panel and trim piece (including lower kick panels) open the glove box and have a look inside, and do a quick drive around the block. If anything is amiss, have them fix it.

 

This is far better option than having a faulty airbag disfigure your passenger in the event of an accident, or not having an airbag.

Make it painfully clear what your expectations are up front, and if you detect any static, or pushback from the service rep, consider finding a different dealer. I had mine done and it was fine. They noted every single little flaw that my interior had BEFORE they started the job. Every small scratch or loose panel (someone already f-ed up the driver side panel so it's a little loose), and the fact that I had a bluetooth device with a small display.

I honestly wondered if they did anything with my car because it was exactly as I had dropped it off (maybe the dash was a little cleaner). No fingerprints, no rattles.

Let's face it though, the dealer isn't going to put their best, highest paid, tech on this. They're going to train the grunt and have him do nothing but these all day long. I'm sure some dealers are trading quantity for quality, so you may have to make it very clear that everything must be perfect or they will be fixing it. They figure (and are probably right) that most people won't notice or care anyway.

Just had mine done last week. They had the car all day and gave me a loaner 2016 Crosstrek (total POS). No damage to the car, you'd never know it was worked on.

Before that I had made an appointment to just leave my car there and they'd get me a loaner. They said if I felt unsafe that even though they couldn't order the parts they could give me a loaner and keep my car. Only when they have the car they can try to order parts. The day before I was going to drop my car off they called and said they can order parts now without the car there and asked if I wanted the loaner or to just order parts and bring it in. I chose to keep my car because I was going on vacation anyway (without my car). It sounds like if you push the issue they will get it done, so push it if your local dealer is giving you trouble.

No way that Honda outsells BMW, Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Isuzu, Ford, Chrysler, and General Motors combined by a 10:1 margin. 10 fatalities to none is statistically significant.

Wrong, one death in a Ford Ranger so far, plus lots of injuries that didn't result in death but are pretty freaking horrific (Google it)

I think age has a lot to do with it. They degrade over time and there seems to be more of these defective explosives in older Honda vehicles than others, it's a matter of time before they start killing people in other makes. Do you want each manufacturer to wait until that happens?

The problem is well documented, Takata and probably the manufacturers knew about it long before and deaths.

It's been shared on many forums, apparently you can complain to the dealer you or your loved ones feel unsafe and they will pony up the rental. If they balk call SOA.

I just did that the other day. I'm scheduled to bring my car in next week and pick up a loaner. Hopefully that will get them to find parts too.

People are still afraid to drive their cars?!

People are still being killed in minor fender benders, so yeah I suppose some people are. I drive my car all the time, but I'm sure as hell not going to put my wife or kids in front of an air bag that's been proven to shoot jagged metal into peoples throats. Maybe you're OK with your passengers bleeding out after a minor crash, but I'm not.

Does this look like a deadly accident (ignoring all the blood from the slashed throat)

http://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/scalefit_630_noupscale/5706fe2e1e000087007067f3.jpeg

It's better if you post the instructions here instead.

It's probably better that he doesn't. It could be a liability that this site doesn't want/need.

Of those who have already had yours fixed, were you notified that the parts were in stock and to contact your dealer, or did you ignore the notice to ride it out without a passenger until they send another letter?

I'm thinking about calling my local dealers, but living in the land of Subaru I'm sure there's a few thousand on the list ahead of me.

So with all this noise about replacing Takata air-bags due to explosive changing it's properties over time, what about driver's airbag? Is it made with different components?

Probably, but sending out a letter saying "don't drive your car until we get caught up on parts" is worse than saying "don't let anyone sit in the passenger seat"

I'm sure when there's yet another death Takata will recall another batch.

I did see that the reason why the airbags are so dangerous is that they have used ammonium nitrate for the charge, and that changes properties with age and when it's exposed to humidity becoming more volatile.

 

Ammonium Nitrate - the stuff used in the Oklahoma City bombing.

 

Other manufacturers uses guanidinium nitrate.

About guanidinium nitrate:

The compound is hazardous substance, being an explosive and containing an oxidant (nitrate). It is also harmful to the eyes, skin, and inhalation

That's what I want exploding right in my face

I'm sure nothing's perfect when you're talking about "controlled" explosions inches from people's faces

I just got my recall letter yesterday. Basically all it says is that there's a recall and there are no parts so don't let anyone sit in the passenger seat until they get parts and notify me again. Thanks for that Subaru, super helpful.

I wonder if Subaru will give me a loaner so that I can drive my family without fear of them being killed?

Looks like they would work in theory, but they will be too wide for the groove in the rails and from the listed size you'll need to connect 3 of them together for each side to have enough material to wrap around the TMIC (you'd need 6 bands total).

Do you really need 115" of band per side? I think maybe your math is off.

Band sizes are based on the diameter of pipe, so 12.25" pipe will have a circumference of approx 38.4".

That still doesn't change the fact that the band is 12mm wide though, and that those types of bands don't handle vibration too well.

Hmmm - thought it just was to measure the Exhaust Gas Temps. Good to know.

It is to measure exhaust temps, that's how the ECU "knows" whether or not the cat is working. Too cold = bad cat, which is why you'd get a CEL if you gut your UP and leave the sensor in.

Thats an interesting idea but it ruins a saleable egt sensor and requires extra labor. Looks nice.

True, but I don't plan on selling the stock Up pipe or sensor and I could easily solder the connector back onto the sensor if I ever wanted to use it, which is highly unlikely. We don't have to worry about the "visual" part of smog up here like you do down in CA, so as long as there are no codes being thrown it'll pass.

With taking pics it took all of about 30 minutes to complete. I was going to look for the connector pigtail so I didn't have to cut the sensor, or someone who had a broken sensor and was willing to part with it for shipping cost, but i got impatient

After installing my STi UP I decided to go a little overboard on the resistor mod.

Stock UP with EGT

Cut off the connector leaving some wire to work with:

Get your 2.2k resistor ready

Strip the wires:

Solder and shrink tube the resistor:

Shrink tube over the resistor and test:

Reconnect the connector with resistor in place:

Nylocks are usually good to around 250* so I doubt they will be an issue on this application. If you're worried about it for this application (or other hot applications) consider jet nuts. They're good because they're locking, flanged, and smaller hex than standard.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#jet-nuts/=ch6p25

If you can get them long enough I'd also consider using button head machine screws in place of the threaded rod and acorn nuts

http://www.mcmaster.com/#button-head-machine-screws/=ch6ugg