Draco-REX

Well, I've started collecting parts for my brake overhaul. I just got a set of Hawk ceramic pads, and I'll be getting a set of new rotors (blanks). Those will go on first so I can see if they will change the pedal feel and stopping distance any. Once I'm familiar with them, I'll do the STI MC swap. The booster is here, and I just need to order a MC and the check valve.

 

My biggest issue at the moment is determining if the Legacy brake reservoir will fit onto the STI MC.

Z1*s and RE11s are both essentially competition street tires. They clear water well enough to drive on the street, but are as sticky as possible while maintaining a high enough wear rating to qualify as a Street tire for SCCA SOLO classing. The tread is as wide as possible for the sizing, again to have as much grip as possible while staying within classing specs.

 

Both are amazing tires. I have the RE-01Rs, the precursors to the RE11s, on my STI and they are incredibly grippy. I need to upgrade my pads because in 255 size they overpower my stock brakes. The Z1*s were made to be grippier than the RE01-Rs, and the RE11s were made to equal or beat the Z1*s.

 

Whichever you get, you'll be amazed by the grip available.

 

Just remember when fitting a set of these, they are about half a size wider than a regular tire. (i.e. a 225 is like a 230, a 235 is like a 240, etc) Calculate diameter the same, but make sure you have an extra tenth of an inch or so of clearance on the sides.

I havent decided yet. I am trying to get as close the same diameter as stock as possible. Any suggestions?

 

If you want to go wide, 235/40-17 should fit without much issue if you don't go for an overly meaty tire (Z1*, RE-11, or other competition street tire might be too wide).

 

You could go with a 225/45-17. It'll be slightly taller than stock, but should fit under the spring perch.

 

I'm not sure if the spring perch is shaped the same as the spec.B one, so I'm not sure if you'll fit a 245/40-17.

Does any one know if 17x8 with a +48 offset will fit without any problems? I am not very good at wheel sizing so I need some help here. If they will fit then these are the ones I will be getting.

http://www.rotawheels.com/wheels.asp?wheelid=52

Thanks in advance.

 

The rims should fit fine. What size tires?

The Brake booster is the same between the WRX and STi. The MBC is bigger on the STi.

Did you have a chance to get the car on the road yet?

EDIT: Nevermind. Morning brainfart.

Front Brembo Calipers, Slotted rotors all the way around, SS Brake Lines, Motul Fluid, Hawk HP+ Pads all the way around, and now the MBC/Booster from the STi.

Wow, that's a lot. Though if this does work for you I'll give it a try. My brakes are stock, but I think the larger MC will help quite a bit.

Like I said in the other thread, my car won't be back up and running until later this week. I will report back after my car is running with pedal feel.

I'm very interested in the results. Have you done anything else to your brake system? Or just the "tune-up" steps listed above?

Are the spec.B Bilsteins that different from the regular LGT dampers? My spec rides really smooth and glides over some bumps that are jarring in my other cars. Overall I find my spec to be a really comfortable ride, even a little "floaty."

 

If there is that much of a difference, then maybe an upgrade to the bilsteins would help the OP.

Sorry, I'm coming into this late. Are you keeping the Subaru transmission and AWD? And if so, the stock 5 speed, or upgrading to the bombproof STI 6 speed?

Draco, remove the mufflers and see if you like it better. I do.

 

I'm sure I would to a degree. But the spec is my DD and long-haul cruiser. I don't want loud.

 

I have a WRX that I use for SCCA RallyCross that is straight-piped (no cats, no mufflers):

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c50JdmpJHXk]YouTube- Franken-xaust.[/ame]

Not the greatest video. I need to get around to making another with less wind noise.

Nope, this:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Vacuum-Tubing-Connectors---Hard-Restrictor-3-16%22-Dorman_5019508-P_N3122_A%7CGRP2037____

 

It's not pictured, but there's a brass "pill" inside it with an opening that looks to be 1/32" or so. It helps choke off oscillations in the line. It looks like the snubber you linked could work.. Just be a pain to get the right one and would only work for a setup that uses brass fittings.

 

I'm not sure if this is even an issue for the digital gauge, but thought I should mention it.

Oh, I forgot to mention something. If you tap into the line from the intake runner, you'll want to install a restrictor. The needle on my gauge was vibrating like crazy at full boost until I put one in.

So, short of going through 12 pages of info - someone figure out where where's a good spot to tap into the intake manifold, and where to run the hose through the firewall and to the sending unit?

 

Nothing was mentioned in the manual....

 

You can either tap into the line to the BPV, or you can tap into the line that comes off the driver's side rear intake runner. The intake runner seems to respond quicker.

 

As for through the firewall, I followed the main wiring harness through the driver's side fender when I installed my boost gauge today. I took a ton of pics and was going to post a write-up, but then I saw that someone had beat me to it.

 

http://jsalmi.com/car/boostgauge/

I'm confused. Are you people ACTUALLY doing this?

 

I did the Hogzaust mod to my car last weekend. For a mod that costs only pocket-change, the result is very good. I did it because my other cars are much louder, so I've learned to shift by ear. When I started driving the spec.B, I stalled it twice because I couldn't hear it revving. So this mod is great because it's *just* loud enough inside the cabin that I can judge the revs without having to watch the tach.

 

However, the sound is.. off.. in some way. I'm not sure how, but it just sounds wrong somehow. I'll probably leave the hogzaust setup in place for the winter and move to an actual aftermarket CBE come summer.

 

I just wish MadDad made a whisper system for the LGT. It sounds SO good. I'll just have to find a CBE that's not too expensive and not too loud.

Just finished clearing/painting my headlights. I used the same methods as in this thread from when did my STI lights:

 

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-exterior/101693-martha-stewart-sti-style.html

 

There are a couple pointers to add that I picked up this second time around:

 

1. Do NOT use the 3M Green automotive tape. The edges are sharper, but the adhesive is more aggressive than the blue tape. It pulled up some of the chrome.

 

2. Use a hairdryer to soften the tape adhesive to reduce the chance of #1 happening.

 

3. Use a scuffing pad to scuff up the chrome before painting.

 

This time around, I had issues with both headlights. One lost some chrome, and the other lost some paint. On the plus side, however, I used a Semi-Gloss this time around, and I think it looks much better than the regular flat black.

 

I left the silver scatter lense for the turn signal but removed the orange reflectors. I also taped up the chrome bezel around the low beam and just the reflector for the turn signal. It came out looking really good, despite the above issues. If I'm feeling froggy at some point, I might see if I can trade these for someone's stock set and try this again to get a perfect set.

Something else to consider, the STI R180 diff uses different axles than the R160 diff. You will either need to get a set of Driveshaft Shop R180 to R160 conversion axles for the rear, or swap the rear knuckles/brakes as well.