tailgatewagon

got my vb and installed it last night took just under 2 hours to do it of course i had accses to a lift. let the three bond dry overnight and just filled and drove it about 5min ago. did the reset with the select monitor and did the learning drive as per the service manual. anyway shift good and im shure it will get better as it learns anyway A+++ for HEX MODS.

bump for info as to prosport is the only one that will work:confused:

looks like people are having problems with the prosport oil pressure sender

as per

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=32993376

 

just wondering if any others are will work...

im not an enginer, but for 50 years aircraft wrist pin bearings(brass bushings) and rocker arm bearings (brass bushings) have been reamed as per the TCM FSM and they LYC FSM, (FSM= factory service manual), now im not saying micro poslishing isnt better just that reaming is a tried and true method.

 

Frankster is right.

 

Also, a ten-thousandths interference doesn't require cooling and heating to press. A ten-thousandths will probably slide together by hand. If you want to do a proper shrink fit, you need an interference of several thousandths. For a gear-drive system I did a few years ago, I did a 0.007 interference fit that required heating of the gear and cooling of the shaft (accomplished by spraying the shaft with an air-duster turned upside down). Even then, a high level of precision is required when pressing. It's not just something you can throw together by hand.

 

For this application, a shrink-fit isn't necessary. A simple press-fit would be sufficient and would decrease unnecessary stress in the bushing.

 

As for "reaming" the bushing out, that's not typically good practice for a bearing surface. You want a micro-polished and true surface. Ideally, you'd order precision ID stock, turn the OD on a high-speed lathe, then polish the OD and press fit the bushing. Finish it off by trimming the excess and finishing the ends on a lathe.

i think if i do this mod i will do the following.

 

make the OD of the bushing .0001 or .0002 larger then the diameter of the gear then heat the gear and press the frozen bearing into the gear.

then ream the bushing to the right size for the pin

 

reason

if the is no real oiling to the out side of the bushing then it could tend to gall and may even make metal and that is not what i want in my trany. if were going to switch to a plain bearing lets do it like a real plain bearing

 

other thoughts

this may be over kill but if were going to be looking at ths then overkill is the name of the game

 

now when it comes to what alloy bronze to use that i have no idea...

just ordered mine:rolleyes:

so i looked on gtboostgauge.com and didnt see the vbg. so us is the bg20 and bg16 the only ones avalible or is the vbg1 still avalible?

My brother inlaw just did a 5speed swap on his svx(93) and used a wrx trany,,, somthing cool we found, we took the front trany mounts(body) off of a 98 forester they were sheetmetal parts with a nut insert in them that the trans crossmember bolts to. they matched the slope of the svx firewall perfectly and welded in place it looks almost factory... so if you do the 5 speed swap maybe find some oem body mounts from a manual car that will work that way it all bolts up.(sorry this may not apply to the leg ive not looked under a 5speed vs auto) but its worth a shot in the dark...