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bettner12

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Posts posted by bettner12

  1.  

    Now until you get into billet blocks all of the closed deck have two fatal flaws. First they use the stock sleeves, and second if you have a catastrophic failure you will need to replace the whole block. Whereas with sleeves your biggest issue is having a sleeve drop due to being incorrectly installed. And if you do have some kind of failure you can have 1 sleeve replaced in the worst case scenario. Which is one of the reasons it's still an option I'm considering.

     

     

     

    Former manufacturing engineer from IAG here...

     

    you're plenty fine with stock sleeves up over 1000whp, the sleeves aren't the thing that fails. If you have a cast iron sleeve fail, trust me, you aren't just replacing one sleeve, you're throwing out the whole thing and starting over again. The cost of a comparable closed deck to a sleeved block is what you need to look at, they both need to be treated as a consumable, because they are... If the used close deck block you're looking at is an IAG block, then if would not be successful to install sleeves into it at that point.

     

    The cost of the sleeves themselves, plus the price of the machine shop to do it correctly, plus the long lead time typical of the places that can do it correctly are things to consider.

     

    If you have any questions, i'll try to keep an eye on here more often!

    good luck with you're build

  2. I will be running the iWire dual pump hardwire kit, it uses the factory FPCM to trigger the first pump on at 100%, then uses an adjustable pressure switch to trigger the second pump when the demand is needed. This still keeps the safety of the ECU controlling the fuel pump relay and completely eliminates any of the issues with voltage drop.
  3. Ah, yeah that will be tricky and likely involve some software that can overlay datalog metrics over video recording of a run and synchronize both. and not just do numbers, but a scrolling plot. Something like that must be out there but its likely $$$, tricky to get talking to specific video editing and logging software or both.

     

    Izze Racing does his video overlays in MatLab I believe.

     

    [ame=

    ]
    [/ame]
  4. Will do. Still waiting for the AQ-1 to arrive so I can start messing with sensor configs. I have a 240W 12VDC benchtop power supply so I can test everything out before install. Aside from tapping the MAP sensor signal, I am going to use a Setra 230 differential pressure sensor and two exposed-element class A 100 ohm thin film RTDs potted into NPT plugs for air measurement. I can overlay this with the ambient air temp and MAF readings from the ECU to get a good idea of the IC efficiency. If only I had the MY08+ with CAN I could use the new AQ-1 with the CAN OBD2 interface, and get all the ECU parameters easily.

     

    I know it's elementary, but make sure you fuse the power input to the logger.

  5. I'm currently working on a project to characterize the performance of my STI TMIC. The plan is to use an AEM AQ-1 datalogger to monitor the pressure and temperature differential, and tap into the stock MAP sensor signal so I can overlay logs from Romraider with the datalogs from the AQ-1.

     

     

    UD,

    If you have any questions about the AQ-1 I used one for our SAE team the last couple of years before we upgraded to an AIM EVO5. Definitely a good choice for the application.

    -Clinton

  6. we agree on wastegate position lol

     

    11267710_611263528988863_1912994561_n.jpg

     

    wasn't sure if you already committed the motor or not, what struck me is how someone mentioned supporting the top of the cylinder walls, which sounds an awful lot like a closed deck block to me. hope the rallispec block works for you, i know they do great work.

     

    I'm gonna see if i can share some info about a new product that should be coming out very soon that will make twinscroll a much easier and more affordable option for the masses. I'll pm you about it.

     

     

    Glad you're here. The ETS comes out too high and runs into the brake ducts.

     

    I already have the Rallispec block, it arrived a couple of days ago. I'll post pics this weekend.

     

    On the turbo, no reason other than I never really looked at it. I like the EWG on the ATP housing. That's a rock solid way to mount the EWG. If the EWG is mounted on the uppipe there's always the chance that after 20 hours of race heat and vibration the weld to the EWG will fail and crack open. I've talked with three Subaru race tuners/builders/suppliers and they all agree the EWG on the turbine is the way to go for long endurance races.

  7. I know I'll be be switching over to Injector Dynamics intank fuel pump, new ID1700 Injectors and Holley HydraMat once all those are released in the next year.

     

    https://www.holley.com/news/articles/holley_debuts_new_hydramat_fuel_reservoir/

     

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfE1v65fNZI]The Amazing Holley HydraMat - YouTube[/ame]

     

    http://bangshift.com/general-news/new-products/must-see-holley-just-changed-fuel-system-game-big-way/

     

     

    And the ID pump:

    620LPH at 7Bar( 100psi)

    Constant flow from 10-14volts

    Slightly larger than a dw300 or walbro 405

    Uses a controller designed with Bosch Motorsports.

    I believe it's actually 3 phase, and the amp draw on it is HUGE.

     

     

    10838071_398955113589310_8182036855836707090_o.jpg

     

    10834975_401484246669730_8061020442290985253_o.jpg

     

    10862589_401484360003052_1437106198471028606_o.jpg

     

    10846235_395891420562346_4054909110900003368_n.jpg?oh=f7a75b55293518d47160295fb1615967&oe=553A36FD

     

    new ID1700 Ethanol compatible injector

     

    10847491_401484370003051_376356486290695093_o.jpg

     

    Hopefully this video works for most of you, there isn't too much data or pictures of it, but i dug up what i could.

     

    https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=398486990302789

  8. I did it the lazy way... AKA hardwired

    12Ga ( I believe) soldered to the back of the bulkhead connector on fuel pump assembly, 12+ from battery, signal from the FPCM Bat+, and grounded on the right side of the center console, allowing for a switched ground leg to be able to turn off the pump while sitting with the key in "ON"

     

    1232675_641643839952_1794865403_n.jpg?oh=026f563e653bf4aee6210a7941e0486d&oe=524F18E3

     

    1353605_641643086462_974015134_o.jpg?oh=e58056791bd255e1aebf2c37b4ac3cec&oe=524F45A6

     

    960869_630443695132_2063956483_n.jpg?oh=4756d4f0f4fe0eab82579f24a8cb9c02&oe=524EB446

  9. Good stuff, guys! I agree 100% with the IAT sensor bung. I run speed density myself and having some extra meat designed into the casting for threads will be excellent.

     

    Also, got some goodies from our pals at Turbosmart today! We will be guaranteeing TMIC/Splitter fitment with their Dual Port BPV, which sits just under 4.5in tall off the flange face. That should give you dudes plenty of room.

     

    Matt Beenen

    Engineering

     

     

    would this be the sensor you're most likely to design around?

    http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/400

     

    a few notes:

    reading up on it, it seems very sensitive to heat soak, and that some people on nasioc have stated the importance of clocking the sensor element perpendicular to the flow path of the charge air. Also being sure to place as much of the sensor element in the air path as possible (the entire plastic part of the sensor should be within the confines of the piping) , not have it shrouded by not being deep enough in the bung hole.

     

    also to note, if this is the sensor in question, the thread profile is 3/8" - 18 NPTF. Not standard NPT threads.

     

    Here's a short primer on NPTF:

    taken from http://instrumentationtubing.blogspot.com/2012/12/140-threads-used-for-tube-fittings.html

     

    14.5 Dry Seal NPTF Threads

    Dryseal pipe threads are based on the USA (American) pipe thread; however, they differ from the USA (American) pipe thread in that they are designed to seal pressure tight joints without the necessity of using sealing compounds. To accomplish this some modification of thread form and greater accuracy in

    manufacture is required.

     

    The roots of both external and internal threads are truncated slightly more than the crest, i.e. roots have wider flats than the crests, so that metal to metal contact occurs as the crests and the roots coincident with or prior to flank contact, see figure-14-7. Thus as the threads are assembled wrenching, the roots of the threads crush the sharper +crests of the mating threads .This sealing action at both the major and

    minor diameters tends to prevent spiral leakage and pressure tight without the necessity of using sealing compounds, provided that the mating threads are in accordance with standard specification and tolerance and are damaged by galling in the assembly. The control of crest and root truncation is simplified by the use of properly designed threading tools. Also it is desirable that both for the length. However, where not functionally objectionable, the use of a compatible lubricant or sealant may be used to minimize the possibility of galling. This is desirable in assembling dryseal pipe threads in refrigeration and other systems to affect a pressure tight seal.

     

    In order to obtain a pressure tight seal using dryseal pipe threads without a sealer, it is necessary to hold crest and truncation of both internal and external threads within the limits specified. Unless this is done by use of threading tools with the crest and root truncation controlled so assure reproduction on the product of threads, it is necessary to use a system of measuring or a system of gauging and measuring to determine conformance.

     

    There are two classes of Dryseal pipe threads viz. Class-I and Class-II Dryseal pipe threads. The classes differ only in inspection requirements. For class-I threads, inspection of roots and crest is not required while for class-Ii threads these inspections are required.

     

    External Dryseal threads are tapered only while internal Dryseal threads may be either straight or tapered. Also, the thread lengths may be either standard or short depending on the requirement of the application. Short threads are obtained by shortening the length of the standard thread by one pitch.

     

    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qzvpxUB42Sw/UM3-Otr9WvI/AAAAAAAAAsE/wGB_BdsdeLI/s320/fig_14_7_external_mating_conditions_for_dryseal_pipe_threads.PNG

     

    The minimum material condition as shown at the left is established by having the mating crests and roots of equal truncation so as to assure metal to metal contact at these points coincident with flank contact. The condition is established at the sharpest root and the flattest crest and gives no clearance. Tolerances at the crests and the roots are established in the direction of interference only, therefore the maximum material condition shown at the right is established by having the extreme combination of sharpest crests and flattest roots, which provide the maximum interference.

     

    When threaded joints are made wrench tight, it is intended that the flanks and crests and roots shall be in contact.

     

    Figure14-8-: Basic dimensions of NPTF threads

     

    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wMYSzHJ_SDA/UM3-WfFQtAI/AAAAAAAAAsU/NDyIxHrc6zM/s400/table_14_8_basic_dimensions_of_NPTF_threads.PNG

  10. Does anyone know what the inputs the fuel pump control unit is receiving from the ECU?

    I'm going to be ordering the DCCD pro controller, and figuring out what the heck it's doing.

    It looks ridiculously cheap though, either a buck-boosting circuit, or a 555 timer doing the PWM.

    Doesn't look like it would hold up to 55a to me at all. Looking into it more, i'll update when I receive it.

    -CB

  11. Just wanted to give Scott a shout out for his EXCELLENT customer service. Short story: 08 OEM lights were received back in July blacked out/cleared with TSX-R lenses. The rear corner on the driver's side broke during shipment, and ultimately UPS wouldn't cover it (even though it was insured) because they didn't pack it. Lame. Well Scott sourced another 08 OEM headlight and sent it to me a few weeks back so I'm good to go now. He does top notch work and is a good guy to boot. Everyone needs to get their headlights modded by him even though he's a Mazda guy now :lol:

     

    Thanks again Scott!!!

     

    ^this, and he still does have his LGT for a while longer

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