parad1mg

So, my Koni's adjustment range only reaches 1.25 turns max from full soft, on all 4 shocks. Well, one is roughly 1.2 turns but that's close enough.

 

I'm going to give Koni a ring and ask about it, but has anyone experienced the same adjustment limit? I've Lord in 50+ miles already since installation.

 

Update: Called koni and they verified that the valving for my kit is indeed 1 1/4 turns. They said that there was a manufacturing change that happened on the 16th week of last year for my specific application. The tech also verified it by hand, we'll just give him the benefit of the doubt that he actually did this, as he took the same model shocks off their shelf and he can only turn it 1.25 to 1.5 max.

 

Anyway, i hope this clarifies things for those who are planning on buying a set.

 

Right now i have everything at 1 turn and i'm liking it The rattles in my dash however, do not.

So, my Koni's adjustment range only reaches 1.25 turns max from full soft, on all 4 shocks. Well, one is roughly 1.2 turns but that's close enough.

 

I'm going to give Koni a ring and ask about it, but has anyone experienced the same adjustment limit? I've Lord in 50+ miles already since installation.

Yeah, test drove it a few hours ago and everything feels normal. No squeaks, clunks or odd noises so far. The front bobs a lot less now.

Using kyb top hats here. Did yours stick out this much from the top hats?

 

and yes, everything was installed correctly

 

Ugh.. I hate you guys.

 

Now I want one.

On So Cal cars it is no issue (and is the fastest route). If the cars have seen "weather" I take other routes.

 

^^^^^this

 

Why are you guys trying to remove the ball joints is beyond me.

 

same thought went in my head about why anyone would unbolt the LCA.

I pressure wash it and I parked it in the garage. The truck sat out in the driveway. The leggy and the foz are garage rats but the exterior gets weathered fast here in Cali.

 

I bought a ball joint tool from harbor freight a few years back (2013 i think) when I had to change the passenger side CV boot. I tightened that down and sprayed it down with PB Blaster. Gave it a few minutes while tightening it down some more and the ball joint popped off.

 

Used the same tool to replace the front suspension parts/bushings a few months ago when I rebuilt the leggy.

 

Pre-soaking with penetrating fluid helps a lot.

Thats because your car is from California. Those with "weather" wont have such an easy time. Pinch bolts routinely seize and snap off in the knuckle. Bearings routinely seize in the knuckle... and it gets worse.

 

Nope. Came from NoVa. Our Fozzie is the Cali girl.

 

My old ford truck was a different story. It was easier to cut and replace parts on that one.

^^^ or an even easier way is to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and the sway bar link. I use a cheater bar to push down on the LCA and the whole strut/knuckle assembly is free to move where you please. Took me less than 30 minutes to change out my damaged hub.

Got my axle boots from rockauto. For under $60, I can replace all 4 boots on the front.

What I meant was an aftermarket replacement boot kit.

 

They can be found for less than $15 per boot.

Anybody here used an aftermarket replacement part like the one from rock auto?

 

I need to replace at least 3 boots on mine.

Didn't have any steering issues, low reservoir fluid or noises but did this anyway a couple of months ago since the pump always looked a bit wet from oil. checked it again today and its bone dry on the outside.

 

The steering is still heavy though not like our forester which is butter soft

 

I always thought Subarus all have featherweight steering.

 

 

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/turkeylord/2005%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_5048.jpg

 

#notevenfullyet

 

how did you tint the amber red on your tail lights?