blackturboblack

Epic Springs are Eilbach Now

 

Thank you but I think the drop on those is over an inch. I don't think I want that much. I'm thinking stock springs and stiff struts. Which would be?

Is dd also. Would like a little more softness because these pot holes are a killer at 60 mph

Hey folks, apologize in advance. I'm sure this question has been asked, but there's too many darn pages.

So, my question is: how can I go back to original ride height. I have MRI(?) springs. I think that's the name. There was a time when the Eilbach pro kit wasn't being made and this company made springs with the Eilbach specs. They have about 50k on them. Seem to have sunk to almost 2"drop. Koni yellows. Sway bars f&r. Invidia exhaust. Here's the thing: has a trailer hitch put on to transport my bicycle. Car is so low hitch scrapes on every slope and flex pipe scraped almost to having a hole in it. Since I'm stg 3/4, would like to keep tight ride with higher profile. TIA

I was able to fit some 18x8s +48. I am dropped pretty low on BC BR coils and I don't have problems with rubbing. Full disclosure, if I load the car with a bunch of weight it will rub in the corners. This is the trade off. And its totally worth it! But with 2-3 passengers in the car, I never rub.

 

GeraldG Here are a few pics, sorry black against silver is a rough contrast to capture...

 

That's interesting. Even tho I don't have the wagon, it makes me wonder. BTW, use bounced flash to capture black and siver.

I would start with better pads, rotors , MC brace . Wilwoods might fit with the stock rims but you will only get a better feel not necessarily shorter stopping distance. Braided lines give marginal improvement

 

Yeah. Did I add I have sways and links? Will the extra width & height make that much difference? Because I really need those BBs. Coming down from 140-160 she slews, not straight line stop.

Agree with many posters. I have MTG, MGA springs? I don't remember, but they're the company that produced the Eilbach Sports once Eilbach stopped. About 1" drop all around with Koni yellows. Links and braces in back. Car handles like a dream. Now the question - problem: with stock 17x7.5 with an offset off, I think +53, I can't get any big brakes in there. I regularly exceed 140 and I'm tuning for more horsies. I NEED BETTER BRAKES! I was thinking tires too. Would love to go 18x8 but I'd probably have to roll the fenders. Even the 18x7.5 is suspect because of the drop. Or are they? I could live with whatever rim size I have too (the extra 2" on the x8s would be nice) if I can just get an offset that will allow me to get some big brakes in. Or, should I just do SS brake lines and bigger MC or booster? Any suggestions welcome.

I see what you mean. I should have said DRL/highs instead of hi/lo.

I don't think so. My DRL/highs are 9006s. If they are single filament as you say then I suppose the voltage is changed for output?

The original post of this thread has a wealth of information in this regard. Foglight bulbs are not covered because for the most part they have the same brightness.

 

I respect your knowledge on bulbs, you and Mini, as I've read this whole thread many times. I have a question I can't seem to find an answer to. My fogs are 9006s. I would like to change them to HIDs. All of the 9006s I've seen are made for hi/lo application. My question is: what are the bulbs going to do as fogs? Output as lows or highs? It's obviously a waste of time and effort if they're just going to operate as lows, especially since I replaced my driving lights with 8k HIDs. I'd like to do the fogs in 6 (white), 8(blue tinge) or 10k(blue).

Are you still on stock struts? If so, your ride is likely harsh because the stock KYB struts have insufficient dampening w/ stock springs, much less lowered ones. If you want a stock height w/ better dampening, your best bet is to run Konis w/ stock springs or Bilsteins w/ JDM LGT springs.

 

Yep, still on the stock struts. But I'm on MSI springs, I don't see an option in what you mentioned. Would the Bilsteins suit? What exact model are we talking about? I've heard they Bils drop the car even further. And thanks for the advice.

Man, after all this snow I discovered the 1" I'm lowered (MSI springs) made a big difference in clearance (duh). So I got stuck when I tried to plow through in parking lots and in effect put the car on a snow lift with the snow humped up under the chassis and the wheels unable to contact the ground . What fun.

 

But, my question is: I don't want the car any lower, I want a firmer yet softer ride because the springs harshed the ride. I'll be installing thicker sways and end links if it ever stops snowing here. But I did want a more "plush" ride. Any struts fit the bill?

I would suggest saving up for struts/shocks and installing them together. Get it done right the first time and save yourself from doing/paying for the labor twice. You'll also be much happier with the performance result this way.

 

Agreed. You need new ones after 120k anyway.

**sigh** I know. All this effin' snow...

LOL. Damn, Mini, you're killin' me here. I think I need a little more throw. The immediate front road is brightly lit, but the distance (say 3-4 car lengths) is dim. Or maybe I'm out-driving my lights! I tend to do that. BTW, I'm using 65w rallye and 55w yellow fogs, which I can't even see because the heads are shooting down so close.

I installed those MSI (I think) springs. I'm dropped about an inch all round. Question: how far should I raise ( adjust) my headlights to compensate? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn? I know, I know, I should do the wall-measuring thing, but until all this snow melts it's not gonna happen. Just need a quick temporary fix. What would you guesstimate? Both screws? One? TIA.

Could be in the wrong forum/thread but what the hell. I installed those MSI (I think) springs. I'm dropped about an inch all round. Question: how far should I raise ( adjust) my headlights to compensate? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn? I know, I know, I should do the wall-measuring thing, but until all this snow melts it's not gonna happen. Just need a quick temporary fix.

I don't know if I've got this. Horozontal moves the bulb side to side, as in along the horizon? And vertical moves it up and down?

Oh, yeah, my car is dropped an inch. Makes a huge difference in alignment.

I do believe the 08-09 LGT retains the H3-style foglight bulb. HB4 is incorrect and won't fit. As far as what to get, it is entirely up to you. You have 2 choices: more light at the sacrifice of performance in bad weather, or better light to improve bad weather performance. If you want better, the best bulbs are selective yellow.

Here is a selection of both types

http://store.candlepower.com/h3bulbs.html

Careful with overwattage bulbs, they might melt the tiny housing. I do believe stock is 55w.

 

Thanks. But they are HB4s. The bulbs are 3k, looking for higher output, but in the mean time, when I went in, the bolts that hold the housings in place were loose. After changing the bulbs, I tightened the bolts and the fogs realigned perfectly. Only thing is: I found out both of my lenses are cracked :spin:. Now what?

Can I run 55w halogens in my 2008 fog bowls safely? Thanks.

Considering these: "Halo Automotive Solaris Yellow 9006 (12v 55w) Bulb - Twin Pack"

Automotive; $21.59

for fog replacements on my 2008 LGT. They're also labled HB4 and look to be a 90 degree bend unit. Is this the correct fitment? How about the brand? The ratings were 41/2 stars out of 5. Comments very welcome. Thanks. (By the way, I found them on amazon, you can see pic there).

 

Okay, these are halogens, so wattage shouldn't be a problem, should it?

 

From their website: "Twin Pack. Halo Halogen Solaris Yellow light bulbs contain a real gold coating to give maximum visibility. Halogen light bulbs are currently the most often used in vehicles. Halogens have the capacity to produce proper illumination on the road, keeping your family safe. Halo Automotive offers replacement halogen bulbs in 4 cool colors. Halo Automotive is a manufacturer of premium aftermarket lighting products, utilizing the latest in Japanese design and technology."

Has Cobb started making sways again?

Pretty easy to make out, just look for the closest place between the two parts and see if ther is amoark on both, there was on mine at the point of contact.

 

That will have to wait. My clutch went out on me. And I had smelt it a few times and started to have it changed when I did the springs. :mad:

Guess it would be hard to tell unless you did not have it before. Check to see that everything is tight for sure and make sure there is adequate clearance between the rear sway bar and the exaust pipes. That is one place I was getting contact but I also have AVO reinforcement mounts from Rallitek and thier rear swaybar which is larger in dameter.

 

No. Now that I think about it, it wasn't there before. I think you may have something there. That's just what it sounds like: contact between the exhaust and something. It has that 'tinny' sound. I'll take a look, but really, I'm going to change my cat-back anyway.

Just installed the MSI/Eibachs and I hear a little clicking every now and then. Sounds like from the rear. It's not loud and doesn't happen constantly. To be honest, I don't know if it's been there all the time. Maybe it's just the springs settling? Any thoughts? I don't know. I do know this thing is sweet now. No more drifting. And curves are stupid. Can't wait to put on sways. BTW, now I have a set of stock LGT springs with 30k on them. Garbage?