RabidWombat

I was having the same issue. Dealer diagnosed as the board in the roof, followed the steps here and it seemed to work.

 

Thanks for the detailed pictures. It looked like most of the solder joints on my board were cracked.

A friend just had his 08 Corvette smogged. OBDII only with minimal visual, no sniffer at all. Said the guy didn't even bend down to look under the car. Popped the hood and minimal inspection there.

 

This was Contra Costra county which should be a high smog county, so there's definitely no sniffer requirement for newer cars.

Of all that we tested, the previous generation Peg Perego SIP 30/30 gave me the most room, followed closely by Chicco Keyfit 30. Everything else wasn't worth looking at.

 

Peg has a new 30/30 bucket seat (introduced in June, a little late for us), it's a little bigger than the older one and seems to be rated a little better too.

 

I definitely should have read this post more carefully.

 

I went and tested a Britax B-Safe, since they get good reviews and liked the stroller. The B-Safe was a straight no go though. It only fit with the seat 100% forward.

 

Tried a Keyfit 30, and it looks like we'll probably go that route. If I can find a Perego I may check it out also.

So, baby #1 is due in 4 months...

 

We've got two cars, a 2009 LGT and 2008 Impreza 2.5i (both sedans). Anyone have any recommendations on a rear-facing seat that works well in a Legacy or alternatively, seats to avoid?

 

I can check CR, etc, but was hoping to narrow things down to start.

I had an unrepairable blow out this weekend. The tires i bought last year, and 10k miles ago are discontinued. I've found the same make and size, but the tread is a little different. will this mess up my Diff? or do i need 4 new tires?

 

I'd look around to see if you can't find the same ones.

 

What matters to the differential is the ROLLING circumference of tires, when fully weighted on the car. Between different makes of tires, you have no guarantee that the tires will flex the same.

 

You might be ok, if you can find the newer variant of the same tire, but even that is potentially pushing your luck. Unfortunately, there's no good indicator of how much is too much variation?

 

Also, what year/model Subaru? Newer Subaru's (2010+) will be a little more tolerant since they have open differentials in the front and rear.

Seems like everything they are selling is over priced. They want $27,900 for a 2011 WRX, You can get a 2013 for that.

 

That's about typical for SF Bay Area Subaru prices. 1-2yr CPO Subaru's are typically listed at basically the same price as a new one.

 

I agree its crazy, but definitely seems pretty normal around here. Needless to say, I bought new.

Best case you'll be able to get it for around $20k, basically the $22.9k - $3k needed repairs.

 

You could offer less, but they're unlikely to take it. Keep in mind they can potentially sell to a less through buyer, so its mainly a question of how badly they want to get it off the lot. If you're dead set on the car, I'd bet you could negotiate a deal at $21k.

 

If you don't like those prices, your best option is likely to walk away and find a private party sale where there's more option for negotiating, and the seller is less experienced.

Except that doesn't happen (evap) and all fuel pumps are rated for 100% duty cycle, all the time.

 

I'm guessing it has more to due with reliability and gas mileage.

 

While fuel pumps may be rated for 100% duty cycle, cars are not operated that way. Heat is bad for most electronics, so reducing the pump heat is probably going to a have positive effect on the lifespan. Especially, if the vast majority of the time will be spent at the 1/3rd DC.

 

Its could be the difference between having a fuel pump die at 100k miles and 150k miles. In both cases, the fuel pump has lived well into its designed life-span, but the second is better for overall reliability, which is what is tracked by Consumer Reports and other popular reliability sites.

 

Since you're already talking about modding the fuel system to perform well beyond its original design, I'd say it doesn't really matter either way.

 

To put the heat issue in comparison:

240W ~ 1/3 HP, assuming 30% efficent electrical system ~ 1 HP required to run the fuel pump. At idle, you're probably making somewhere between 15-30 HP, so about 5% of the engine power is keeping the fuel pump running at full speed. And probably a 0.5% change in EPA fuel economy. Its small, but if you do 10 small things you get a noticeable bump in mileage.

With the stock tune, didn't your car throw a code because of the missing EGT sensor in the up?

 

How did you get around that?

 

I have a stage 2 protune, that ignores data from that missing sensor.

If flash back to behave like stock won't it look for that sensor and throw a code?

 

2.2 kOhm resistor works in place of the sensor. The computer just thinks the sensor is operating nominally.

You probably don't even need to add solder, simply reflowing the existing solder is good enough. The existing solder will be a lead-free compound.

 

Fine gauge solder is ideal, and a fine tip soldering iron. Touch the iron to the pad, and quickly touch the solder to the pad next to the iron and you should get a quick reflow.

 

The hardest part about SMT rework is usually holding the circuit board firmly so you can use two hands.

Theoritically, it would be possible to get around this with a man-in-middle hack. Hooking a surrogate computer to the ECM which would detect these checks and return the stock ROM values would allow an arbitrarily modified car to pass.

A lot of the change actually makes sense. CA needed to move away from the sniffer test because it didn't work on newer cars.

 

The old sniffer test required putting the car on a dyno, but this doesn't work for AWD or most vehicles with traction control. Since any clerk at an auto parts store can clear a code, we all know code checks don't work.

 

If this is actually implemented as described, it makes it easier on people who are Stage 1/2, who can simply swap to stock tune and pass. Anyone running significantly larger turbos/injectors will have problems.

For the record, 511 is the resistor value. Its a 510 Ohm resistor. The other two are shorts that could be jumpered with wire if needed.

Maybe this is just in the 5EAT, but isn't there an AWD fuse you're supposed to pull when you put on the spare tire (switching the vehicle to FWD only)?

 

If this is true for the 5MT, I think it would be a good temporary solution. Maybe I'm thinking of a different vehicle though.

 

Its not in the 5EAT either. The FWD fuse is only found in the 4EAT, which is the 2.5i.

 

For 4th gen Legacies its best to put the donut on a front tire, as the open differential will help reduce the rate difference seen by the center diff.

^wrong.

 

An open center diff is not FWD. its AWD with no limited slip TQ transfer. with an open center, power would just be sent to the path of least resistance, but it would still be either the front or the rear. if you were to remove the drive shaft on a true open center diff, the car would not move.

 

Ah, right. I stand corrected. In fact it would be worse than a FWD car, you could get stuck by having either the front or back tires on ice.

Question:

• Is it possible to take these viscous couplings apart and drain the silicone fluid and put back together to effectively have an 'open' differential? I know there are some downsides such as less traction but it still going to be better than a 2 wheel drive car and 99% of the time I probably wouldn't even notice the difference?
  

If this is possible I could save myself a lot of money!

 

Actually, it would be a completely FWD car. The center differential allows the front and rear axles to rotate at different rates. An open differential simply lets them spin at different rates, but does not provide any power transfer. An open center diff = FWD.

 

You could probably hack the car to FWD by removing the rear drive shaft and sealing the coupler. I think someone on the first or second gen forums did this mod.

I always come in here seeking reassurance my shit wont break.........I always leave depressed.

 

Look at it this way, even if it does break, you don't have to pay $1500 for a "wear" item (clutch).

More good FAQ questions:

 

What are typical 5EAT drive train losses?

 

How does WHP/Wtorque compare to the manual transmission?

 

What is typical power/torque for Stage I/II?

 

How do I dyno a 5EAT (ie torque converter lock-up)?

SI-drive adjusts the 5EAT shift points to something best described as "video-game mode" downshifts occur if you get on the gas at all, upshifts are at the red line, and it will hold gears for 20+ secs with light throttle.

Personally, I like the SI drive thing. Its kind of a gimmick, but its nice, especially if you're getting an auto. For the automatic, SI drive also re-maps the shift points, which is very nice for daily driving.

 

Here's how I use SI drive.

I: Warm-up, driving in heavy traffic

S: Normal driving

S#: When you want to have fun

 

At worst, you can always just leave the car in "S" mode, and it should be nearly equivalent to an 05/06.

Spotted someone on 680S in the Mission Hills Sunday afternoon.

 

Slick looking white LGT (specB?). Debadged, lowered, exhuast, and lip spoiler. I especially liked the blacked out lower trunk lid. It worked really well on your car. Very nice Subaru.

 

I was in my wife's DGM Impreza, just didn't get a chance wave.

Spotted two LGTs today. One in Livermore turning on to 84 from Vallecitos at around 7:45am. Bronze with a blacked out grill.

 

Second dark blue LGT in a parking lot at LLNL.

did it have black rims with a polished lip because if it did, i think that would be me

 

I don't recall the rims or lip, but if you were in Fremont near the 680/880 interchange at around 7:45am Thursday morning, I think it had to be you.

 

I pulled behind briefly in my '09 DGM LGT

DGM SpecB this morning on Mission Blvd, near the 680 on-ramp.

Debadged except for the specB, and looked like an aftermarket exhaust and lowered.

Silver LGT sedan in Sunnyvale at Supreme Court, I parked mine next to it.