Rutchard

are these for sale yet, I'm a little confused. they seem to be done in the first post.

The ones in the first post are for the Subaru 5MT. He's working on ones that will fit the 5th gen 6MT.

Ugh, yeah, photobucket screwed everything up. I was in the process of backing everything up last week and I got sidetracked. I'll try and get the photos for this rehosted somewhere soon.

Here's a link to the whole set of photos on Flickr for now

Other than the camber, OEM specs should be fine. Like GTEASER said, the rear camber can't be adjusted. Should still be able to get the toe to factory specs.

When I was on coils, I had a little more negative camber than OEM up front too. I was at -1.1 and the specs called for -0.8. Not really a big deal. Waaaay better than the -3 on both sides that it was at before the alignment, lol

I'd just tell them to get it as close to OEM spec as they can and you should be fine.

That's what I'm thinking as well.

The older 2.0L WRX just had a softer spring since they didn't see much boost on the stock tune. That's why lots of people upgraded to the unit from the STi.

Not exactly rocket science.

More like rocket surgery, lol

Still curious if the 5th gen BPV leaks because of a soft spring or because the plastic construction is crap.

It really doesn't the form is different the function is identical.

Sure the function is identical. But it's plastic vs metal and a different shape. Chances are, the places he drilled/tapped probably aren't there.

Is it possible? Maybe, but I'm just saying you're not going to be able to follow those instructions step by step. Probably going to have to take the BPV off, analyze it, and then improvise.

I am pretty sure a cobb ots tune will also give you similar numbers vs stock.

Sounds about right.

The only reason I can think of to change the OEM manifold is if you go EWG or if you're getting some custom manifold to mount a larger turbo down there...

It's great that a company wants to make new parts for the 5th gen, I just wish they were making a useful part.

The iq_performance's post seems to indicate that a stock(presumably tuned) car can gain 37 hp and ~80 ft-lbs by simply changing the header. I wanted to know if that is accurate for an otherwise stock car?

That's gotta be stock vs tuned with the header. I just can't see the OEM manifold being that much of a restriction...

That is interesting. It makes me wonder if using the gear dependent boost could help with overboosting.

Anyways, it seems like you could always test how it gets the number by putting the car in 3rd with the clutch down, and coasting at an rpm appropriate for 4th by holding the gas down a bit. If it says 4th, you have an answer. I'll try it tomorrow if I remember.

Like BBPeik said, the gear indicator won't turn on until your foot is off the clutch. But you can pop the gear lever into neutral (in the middle, not in any gear, foot off the clutch) and coasting will display a gear number if the RPMs are appropriate for a given gear.

It's been a while, so I can't remember all the gear ratios and whatnot. But say at 65mph in 6th gear you're at 2500rpm and in 5th gear at 65mph you're at 3500rpm. So you're coasting along at 65mph in 6th gear, pop the gear lever into neutral, rev the engine to 3500rpm (hold it there) and the gear indicator will display 5.

The gear indicator, without a doubt, is calculated based on speed and RPMs. When my OEM clutch was slipping, the gear indicator would vary despite not actually changing gears. Putting it in a high gear, slamming on the gas, and slipping the clutch would make the indicator think I was downshifting as the RPMs rose. Letting off the gas without changing gears would result in the indicator showing the correct gear.

This is exactly what my GT did when the OEM clutch was on its way out.

I believe the gear display can be turned off in our cars.

This would be the easiest solution if it can be turned off.

MT cars don't need a gear indicator anyways. If you don't know what gear you're in by the position of the shifter, you probably shouldn't be driving a manual in the first place, lol

On the other hand, aren't some of the boost/throttle tables by gear? I suppose those would be nice to have working, but not the end of the world if they don't.

I thought it knew what gear you were in based on engine rpm and speed. Not positive though.

yeah, that's how it figures out which gear to display. RPM vs MPH.

If you're coasting in neutral and use the throttle to hold the RPMs at a certain point, it'll display a gear number. Same if the clutch is on its way out and starts slipping badly.

There are no sensors/switches in the transmission to sense which gear is engaged.

Not sure if the tables in the ECU are editable, but hopefully there's a solution. Worst case scenario, just stick a piece of electrical tape over the gear display.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/Rutch/graphix/smileys/shrug.gif My MAF readings were off a bit when I got protuned with the milkjug removed. Tuner said he had seen issues on many 08+ WRX with the milkjug removed. Was going to try with the jug re-installed, but we decided to go with a speed density tune for other reasons.

Like I said before, it is not likely to cause a catastrophic failure. But running lean and knock can eventually add up over time.

Will you get a CEL from removing the milk jug? No. But it can skew your MAF readings a bit.

Has anybody who has had "no problems" actually logged before and after to see? Just because there's no CEL doesn't mean there aren't small problems. Probably nothing big enough to blow up your engine, but running lean can have negative effects over time.

I rather a nameless pipe than an invidia.

I dunno, I'd probably go with the Invidia that works, compared to the Nameless that has a 75 page thread about the issues it has at this point.

STI's come with IC sprayers? Never knew that.

2004-2007 had them

Running just water has danger of corrosion or freezing (not in PHX), so I could put some rubbing alcohol in too, but then I'd have to get the ratio right so I'm not introducing a flammable liquid into my super hot engine bay.

Don't overthink it too much, if it's freezing out you probably don't have to worry about heatsoak and won't be using the IC sprayer

The OEM IC sprayer on the STi had a water tank in the trunk. When winter rolled around I used to drain out the water and replace it with just enough washer fluid to keep the lines from freezing. The OEM switch would run the sprayer for 30sec at a time, then there was a JDM switch you could get that just left the sprayer on until you turned it off again. The JDM switch was great for autox.

Friend of mine made a DIY IC sprayer for his bugeye wagon using the washer fluid tank and some sprayer nozzles from a local hydroponics store. Eventually I know he wanted to make the whole system boost activated, but I don't think he ever made it that far with it.

I would think there are just as many independent variables in the virtual dyno (weather, altitude, user, road/elevation, etc.) as there are with an actual dyno.

Right to some extent. I was thinking more along the lines of the differences between different dyno manufacturers. I mean, if you had some magical shop that had a Mustang Dyno, a Dynapack, and a Dynojet lined up next to each other. Ran the same car on all three dynos under the same conditions, you'd still end up with 3 different results. And that's with no corrections. Then once you spread those three dynos out to three different shops with three different operating procedures/corrections/etc, you end up with results that are skewed all over the place.

No system is going to be perfect, but the Virtual Dyno idea sounds a least a smidge more consistent than using a cornucopia of different dynos.