Homemade WRX

I figured I'd ask on here as it's the picture thread.

Has anyone run the sedan width fenders, rear doors and welded on rear quarters to the wagon body?

Check your grounds.

 

Check your vacuum lines.

 

Check your fuel lines.

 

Reset ecu learning.

 

Call a Subaru tuning shop.

I'll second this. Also, what do you mean by 'it shuts off as soon as I crank'....as in it won't let it crank or it fires up and instantly dies?

Pull a coil offer, slap a spare plug in it and put the spark plug against the cylinder head while cranking. You'll see the ark if you have ignition.

Next is check fueling. You can crank and if you have the means to inspect the ports, see that they're wet. There are other means to check voltage to the injectors.

Before that, you can validate that you have fuel pressure by pulling the feed line, grabbing a vessel and keying-on.

Double check that your MAF is connected and oriented in the correct direction.

Vacuum leaks will usually allow you to fire up but will run like crap or die very quickly.

The 06 spec B was a 5 speed. The 07 was the first 6 speed Spec B which had an r180 rear end. The flange on the spec B 6 speed driveshaft bolts right up to an r 160 WRX rear end. I know this because I crawled underneath my car and bolted it up. WRX r160 and STI r180 flanges are different.

Very interesting. Didn't mean to sound like I was doubting you. So STi's and Spec B's much have different R180 flanges then...

When I installed my spec B transmission with a Spec B driveshaft it bolted right up to an R160 rear end out of a WRX. As such I am assuming the yolks are the same

well wasn't the 06 spec B a 6-spd with an R160?...makes me question which spec b driveshaft you have.

I know first hand that r160s and r180s have different flanges.

It'll be tracked.

you'll want a front diff but a non-oem front diff is better. You also won't have the dccd.

well I know that it isn't just the difference between DRL and headlights as I've done side by side of my brothers LGT and my mom's 06 outback on a garage door.

There is no issue with the electrical system and actually helped him do plugs yesterday and know the contacts are good as well.

I'm knew this was going to be a PITA to fix.

Hey guys,

My brother's 05 LGT has a bizarre issue. His DRL's are working normally but when he switches on the headlights, it barely illuminates any brighter. He just changed both bulbs as well and they made no difference. They are so dim that his foglights outshine the headlights at night. I haven't had much time to look into it at all but was wondering if anyone had any leads or thoughts on it.

Thanks,

Micah

I'm the second person that's about to blow up If im going to use my 5EAT driveshaft then i can only keep my front half and need to buy a 07 spec.b. rear half?? Wouldnt it be vice versa? I really want to refrain from running to the dealer while doing this.

I think you are bit confused...

You need the driveshaft from a 4-eat or from a Spec B...diff flanges can be changed on the rear end to accomodate.

Half shafts, which may have you confused, are CV's.

Does that clear anything up for you?

Sweet, I learned something new!!

That has nothing (or little) to do with it. I thoroughly researched the issue. 07 STI tranny price is simply a glitch in their pricing system, it boggles my mind they have not fixed it. The same "promotional" pricing applies to JDM dealer pricing for that model year.

 

Case in point: 08 tranny, also sans the oil pump costs as much as 04-06 trannies.

 

Also, Subarufast shows part numbers of the oil pump for ALL 07 STIs. It's weird they have not updated it. Also, early 07 STI did come with oil pumps, that has been confirmed by the presence of the oil pipe you mention.

 

Finally, the oil pump is rumored to be completely discontinued (it's going to be impossible to buy the part new from Subaru). Two independent Subaru techs confirmed they were told at Subaru training to replace the oil pump with the oil guides when servicing the oil pump. They provide a "oil guide retrofit kit" instead. There is a bulletin about this posted on nasioc somewhere.

 

It's mind boggling - it's like they are trying hard to eliminate the oil pumps. Yet, the oil pump is used in the 07 tranny they homologated for Group N rally (in GRB STI).

The 07 STi tranny is cheaper than the 06 for some strange reason.

07 is the first year subaru stopped running the oil pump in the trans. You can see on pre-07 setups where the hardline runs in and out of the box, that was for external trans cooler...

Sorry, when I say lifting, I'm referring to weight transfer which will occur in all cases. Didn't mean literal lifting of the wheel. Nothing will really save it there short of a spool

Cusco RS is a very nice unit and you can always stack the plates for the amount of lock you want.

Personally I'd run a Cusco RS and Quaife ATB front diff with either DCCD or Cusco Tarmac (essentially RWD biased open diff) center diff.

Stock R160 is not Torsen, but viscous. Least desirable option.

 

As far as Torsen being better than clutch type - negative. Depends on the application. For road course in many cases - yup (and obviously for rallying). For autox and general street application - Torsen is a better choice. I guess it also depends on the driver's preference.

 

Also the stock 04-06 STI clutch diff (made by Hitachi) is crap. 2-way, very weak and with poor ramp up.

I was referring to the torsen being in the back of the spec B vs clutch in the R180 from an STi...only clutch R160's that I know of were the early STi RA's before they switched to R180's in Ver 4 IIRC...

Also:

clutch > torsen would mean that the clutch style is better than torsen...however out back a clutch will not go to open when lifting a rear inside tire nor allow wheel spin as easily. Heck even with some high powered Impreza's on stock R180's they are peg legging (spinning a rear wheel) coming off of corners BUT you already explained about those junk Hitachi units.

My vote for setup for most everyone, except rally, is a torsen/helical front and a clutch rear. Center's are very much a personal preference type of deal. A 1-way clutch isn't bad up front for tarmac but is noisy.

This should answer all of your ECU/TCU questions regarding 5eat swap to 6sp.

 

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#ecu

Does anyone know of anyone doing an actual 5eat to manual conversion on the legacy? I know the ECU/TCU have become more integrated since the early 90's leggies.