WahooNo2

I usually get them from advance auto using online ordering and instore pickup with a coupon code.

If the cap leaked for some reason I had a stant cap do that on my gt, it could have overflowed the overflow tank. It could also be the weep hole on the water pump, my pump was dumping lots of coolant in the summer from there, eventually like a quart per trip. I don't know what year subaru switched to timing chains but if you have a belt still when you do the belt, do the water pump too, the thermostat, and front oil seal. And don't reuse the water pump bolts... they may snap when you torque them.

I just replaced my seal a few weeks ago it was really smooshed and brittle. If you are planning to do a coolant change in the near future do it then, it is easier than if you are doing just the oil and filter because of clearances. Also get a set of small picks or maybe a piece of steel wire would work to get the old one out.

Call Safelite and ask them how to fix it

 

+ 1... they have to replace that anyway when you get a new windshield....

 

Also a new windshield is 355 for 2005 legacy gt with heater from them out of pocket

Over the summer my water pump was leaking from the weep hole on my Legacy GT *the waterpump was not an oem but one i had replaced when i did my timing belt with a gates kit* and then one day my car started to overheat. I had a new thermostat from the newer kit i had gotten so i bit the bullet and replaced it. When i pulled the old one out it was completely stuck closed and seized. if you want to check and see and don't want to waste money on new coolant you could refill with water to verify that it is that... just don't leave it like that because winter and just water will mean a new engine block.

 

Oh and buy either an OEM thermostat or some sort of japan made one eg Aisin.

You don't need to unbolt engine mounts.

 

Wait till car is cool before beginning because things will be hot.

 

Undo cables from battery, remove battery, place to side

Undo maf cable on air box, undo screw clamps from air box to turbo inlet. Remove air box.

 

Loosen coil on plug packs with socket and unclip the cable on the pack, don't squeeze the clip too hard, because it will break. For the ones closest to the firewall, pullout slightly, rotate 180 degrees and the pack should come out easier.

 

After all coil packs are out, shoot air into the holes to remove dirt or dust in the holes.

Get a 3inch extension and place on a sparkplug socket then use a combination of universals and extensions to break loose the plugs and remove them. I like to label each plug with a marker to look at them later to compare if any look worse than others for oil consumption or wear.

 

After plugs are out you can do a compression or leak down test or just put new ones in.

 

Next put a thin coating of anti seize on plug threads and make sure you don't cross thread the plugs and don't over tighten them. *follow instructions on box*

 

Install coil packs back making sure the boots go on the plugs, reinsert electrical clips. Reinstall airbox and battery and start car, verify that you have a normal idle and it is running correctly if not check your coil pack and connections.

+1 for spark plugs and loose heat shields

 

With torque are you seeing high >10% short and long term fuel trims *that would be indicative of it needing to add more fuel because you are running lean* and may have a leak somewhere.

 

Check the hose to the throttle body to the intercooler clamps and hose itself. The end that goes to the intercooler on mine started to fall apart around 135k and I replaced it with a silicone one.

 

Have you checked the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold to see if it is loose? If not do that. Mine was loose before and was doing weird stuff but i was just on stage 1 at that time. I cut the line about an inch from the end and reattached it and it seemed to help. Check other vacuum lines too like the bypass/blow off valve one and brake booster.

 

Finally have you replaced your in tank fuel filter or pump? It is supposed to be a lifetime filter but at over 150k on the pump and filter and you not being stock it may be having a heart attack with being plugged or struggling. You can also see if it is really a fuel pressure/flow issue if you check with a pressure gauge.

+1 for clutch fluid. Mine was leaking from the rubber hose a few weeks ago. I replaced it with a braided stainless steel one I had in my parts bin and replaced the slave cylinder. After bleeding it works great, but now I realize that I need to replace my clutch again because of the engagement point.

Love my fumoto drain valves. i have them on my 05 wagon and my wife's 04 outback for over 6 years now. Mine have the long nipples since they didnt have the shorter nipples when i got mine.

My dealership covered mine with a "warranty deductible" but that was last year. They needed to drop the gas tank to run the new lines. I wish they would make a package that would just give you stainless lines , both hard and braided flex lines from the factory... and just charge another 500 to 1500 for it. This way customers would not be losing their brakes at years 12 and up.

Ya I agree with you there. I wish that they made the lines from stainless steel from the factory or there was a company that made a kit for our cars of pre bent stainless steel aftermarket ones eg:

 

http://ssbrakes.com/c-1097793-categories-brake-lines-hard-brake-lines.html

 

You can buy or make your own from strait lines too, if you wanted to. I think that somewhere in the basement of the car companies there is someone doing statistical anaylsis that says in 99.9% regular brake lines are fIne.... aka 1 in 1000 cars will have an issue with lines the rest will be fine and the extra 100 dollars in materials and labor is not needed because we want the car to cost x dollars in margin on a car that will be z dollars for the consumer. They also do cost benefit analysis that uses the average length of time someone keeps a new car that hasn't been removed from the road due to accidents, wear and tear, etc is around 6 to 15 years.

 

So the car doesnt get ss lines from the factory that will last 30-40 years or more, you dont get 4 pot brakes beacuse 2 pots still stop you almost the same, you dont get stainess exhaust systems except for the cat piping because of regulations on lifetime *some newer cars do have stainless now* because of a bean counter that just cares about margins and tenths of a perecentage points of failures and they know you will probably be back next time.

 

If you dont have a leak yet but still have a bit of rust and really like the car and are concerned replace the lines eventually. The part that broke on mine required the gas tank to drop. Before I drive I usually push hard on the brakes to make sure I still have brakes and that was when my line broke which was good that it didnt cause an accident but bad becuase I was at work leaving, and still had to get home.

Ya I agree with you there. I wish that they made the lines from stainless steel from the factory or there was a company that made a kit for our cars of pre bent stainless steel aftermarket ones eg:

 

http://ssbrakes.com/c-1097793-categories-brake-lines-hard-brake-lines.html

 

You can buy or make your own from strait lines too, if you wanted to. I think that somewhere in the basement of the car companies there is someone doing statistical anaylsis that says in 99.9% regular brake lines are fIne.... aka 1 in 1000 cars will have an issue with lines the rest will be fine and the extra 100 dollars in materials and labor is not needed because we want the car to cost x dollars in margin on a car that will be z dollars for the consumer. They also do cost benefit analysis that uses the average length of time someone keeps a new car that hasn't been removed from the road due to accidents, wear and tear, etc is around 6 to 15 years.

 

So the car doesnt get ss lines from the factory that will last 30-40 years or more, you dont get 4 pot brakes beacuse 2 pots still stop you almost the same, you dont get stainess exhaust systems except for the cat piping because of regulations on lifetime *some newer cars do have stainless now* because of a bean counter that just cares about margins and tenths of a perecentage points of failures and they know you will probably be back next time.

 

If you dont have a leak yet but still have a bit of rust and really like the car and are concerned replace the lines eventually. The part that broke on mine required the gas tank to drop. Before I drive I usually push hard on the brakes to make sure I still have brakes and that was when my line broke which was good that it didnt cause an accident but bad becuase I was at work leaving, and still had to get home.

The why is pretty easy, its where the lines break. They didnt rust proof the joint and then the fix for it is them spraying rust proofing wax... which is garbage unless it was surface rust. It doesnt fail in the front because if you trace the lines in the front they are all protected from the abs block until they pop out near the wheel... from there it is flexible lines which wont likely break unless they are cut, abraded or rotted out in some manner.

i had to take it out from the hub when i did the wheel bearings spray the bolt with penatrant and replace it with a new 10mm bolt from auto part or hardware store. You can get the sensor out with a screw driver... just go slow so you dont break the plastic. I actually will need to do this again soon because i snapped a wheel stud and i need to repress the stud or replace the bearing

first two amazons have bad reviewes, 3rd has no reviews

 

first ebay seems safest. last ebay may be ok but you will need a retune and it comes from taiwan

 

not sure about other ebays. Someone is going probably post something about not buying ebay and amazon turbos soon.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/plastic-lgt-intake-manifold-problemsi-anyonei-anyonei-142933.html

 

I found a post similar to your question. The intake i believe is made of nylon or glass reinforced nylon by the look and feel of it. It should be good for many psi over the stock and dd needs. Other parts will likely fail before the manifold fails.

Welcome.

How much did you want to push through?

Is your car tuned now?

How much power did you want to make?

How long did you want the current engine and drivetrain components to last

How many miles are on the current engine?

Your car sounds really neat.

 

Ever since switching to a Turbosmart BPV (full recirc) I've felt the car buck under certain situations when lifting off throttle. Sometimes it can feel pretty violent

 

which one do you have?

 

I have the kompact recirc one using the stock turbo, every few months i clean it out and lube the piston and bore with remington gun oil... its a really thin oil that has teflon in it. The vacuum lines didnt fit right on the supplied port (hose too big from being on the old valve). I cut back the hose and wrapped the port with some tape for a tighter fit.

 

[What's the consensus on rear diff bushings and sway bars? I was looking at the Cusco RSB and whiteline diff bushings.

 

The rear roll stiffness of the car needs to be addressed this year since the front tends to plow a bit under hard cornering. I'm still on stock everything back there.

 

I still have my stock swaybar but do have urethane bushings and they seemed to help. I used ones that are greaseable with a grease gun

 

I also have a kit that i got from prothane for about a 100 on amazon for all urethane bushings.

front control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, rear diff bushings too

 

i havent installed mine yet because ive been busy and replaced my control arms in december which came with new bushings

 

http://prothane.com/vehicle-applications/page/34/

 

summit has it for 90

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-16-2004?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2_23BRDb_qbvzK3X8M8BEiQAg87AF7g-cW-gZwu70dq-gqGxu2HF2hs6E1aAUbl-4314HgUaArso8P8HAQ

 

you can also get differential inserts which fill the gap in the rear diff bushings so you dont need to drop everything heres a site that sells them

 

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/subaru_legacy_2005

Good morning. The OCI with Royal Purple is every 4 - 5,000 miles depending on types of trips. Level checked weekly and always kept at safe level. Filters were either OEM or RP. I have a mix of short, 6 mile and longer, 45 mile trips weekly with some even longer. The longer are mostly on the Interstate to either NYC or Philly and at times, more often than not, at WOT, to get through traffic.

 

The PCV was not clogged but had some sludge build up. I suggest to check all the rubber hoses as they get hard and lose their efficiency.

 

When I bought the car, I was working in NYC and went with the 5EAT vs. manual. It's no fun to go into or out of the city with a manual during rush hour. I looked at the aluminum rads but they weren't for the 5EAT as I remember. I went with the stock OEM radiator and thermostat. Using the Mishimoto hoses and cap.

 

Happy driving to all.

 

Thanks for the info!

In my experience, always go with an OEM thermostat when replacing the radiator, never the aftermarket ones that come with the radiator. Same goes for the radiator caps.

 

i replaced my thermostat less than 2 years ago with a stant xactstat 48457 when i did my timinng belt and waterpump. it had the same dimensions, proportions, and opening sizes of the orignal. i boiled the old and new to make sure that each opened correctly at the same time while monitoring water temp with a meat thermometer. its neat to watch the thermostats open... the springs actually contract when they open up.

Good morning Folks. Just turned 227,000. I have also completed most of what WaHooNo2 has done, plus replaced the radiator at 180,000 as top plastic cracked and leaked with Mishimoto hoses.

 

Thanks for info. What radiator did you end up going with? My top plastic end cap on my radiator is now leaking at the crimped part. I'm thinking about getting a 1 inch thick STI radiator from rockauto vs the 5/8 inch stock size one. Koyo and Mishimoto aluminum ones are loved by many here but I can't justify 300 dollars on that right now for a car that likely wont see a track in the near future.

 

Thanks in advance.

It's just that I don't have a whole lot of mechanical experience,

so I kind of feel like I'm walking on egg shells whenever I drive it (I never rev above 5k!).

It doesn't help either in that from what I see, every single one of you guys wrench your own cars.

Thanks to everyone who shares their experiences here on the forum,

as well as private messages whenever I ask. Much appreciated!

 

Wrenching for me started with one or more of the following:

-Being too cheap to pay someone to do the job

-Not trusting the man to do the job right and feeling that he is going to rip me off

-Reading a Legacygt.com post/Haynes/Service manual and thinking that the job looked easy

-Believing that a certain part/bolt would be easy to remove and not break while doing it.

-Rationalizing the purchase of tools that the cost of parts + the tool is still less than having the man do it... and then you have cool garage space occupying tools.... eg a transmission jack

-Having too many "while im in there moments"...

 

Before you know it you will have a living room full of new parts, a car on jack stands for a month without the ability to move under its own power or even be towed out ... and then at the end you can say that you accomplished the job with your sore aching body and bloody knuckles

Nice list!

 

Not sure about the Purolators, but the Fram filters aren't ideal. Bypass pressure is different, IIRC.

 

Ya... I know they are the wrong spring pressure rating for the bypass valve 13 psi on fram http://www.fram.com/search-parts/Part-Detail/?PN=XG7317

14-18 psi on purolator http://www.filtertopia.com/filters/PUROLATOR/L14610.htm

vs 16-20+ but I still have a stock of them that I need to use before buying more :-\ . I do change the oil like 3500-4500 miles depending.

 

Purolator PL14615 looks to be correct now with a 20-30 psi relief valve

and fram's cardboard garbage PH9715 with 16-28 psi

 

 

I do use several old hard drive magnets (neodymium) on the sides of the filters to capture any iron/steel filings and cut each open to make sure there isn't anything crazy in there and to drain out any oil left.

125k original miles on block and turbo with cobb stg 1 map on rotella t6 with purolator pl14610 or psl14610 or fram ultra filter

 

so far i have replaced...

fumoto valve

all wheel bearings

a set of lugs on a bearing hub after one broke

front struts

front control arms and balljoints with aluminum ones

front end links

front tierod ends

sway bar bushings

clutch,fly wheel, pressure plate at 65k because the previous owner couldnt drive manual

2 timing belts, the first at 45k because somthing was eating the belt

front oil seal and waterpump and timing idlers and tensioners when i did the last timing belt

front and rear brakes

group n sti pitch stop rod

mishimoto silicone intake tube after the stock one broke

cv axles and transmission oil seals

radiator hoses

accessory belts

spark plugs

passenger side valve cover gaskets

 

In my big box o parts i have the following left....

goodridge ss flex lines

rear struts

rear end links

urethane shift bushings

urethane diff bushings

urethane trans cross member bushings

urethane rear cross member bushings

group n trans mount

rear big brake kit (uses stock calipers with bigger rotor)

radiator, current one is leaking from top crimp

drivers side valve cover gasket

oil pan gasket

I installed the felpro vs50620r gaskets with permatex gray and they have worked fine so far. You will likely need hose pliars to get the breather/pcv hoses off and new hose clamps because subaru uses special hose clamps to hold the valve cover gaskets. if you are getting new hoses i guess you can cut them off.