Boostin1657615274

i had the AVO grille and it fit like a glove but i couldnt resist the appeal of carbon fiber so i got the R-Rev.

 

The R-Rev didnt fit as well as the AVO, I have a slight gap on the bottom but other than that, R-Rev makes high quality stuff!

 

Just ordered some rain guards and the carbon fiber chrome tail light overlays!

 

You may want to double-check the installation of your grille. There is a lip on the back side of the grille that slips in to the bumper shroud. I had to sand down the lip on mine for it to fit in, but if you dont slip that lip into the shroud, it will just be pushing against it, which would cause your gap. My AVO had about a half-inch gap on each side and at least a half-inch gap on the bottom, and also sits back far enough that you can see the bumper shroud while the grille is installed.

There will hopefully be a new lip spoiler on the market soon to bolt to the factory spoiler holes if we can gauge enough interest. Refer to this thread to join in the Group Buy: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gi-factory-location-rear-lip-spoiler-157103.html

Contacted them directly through the forums, their name on here is R-REV SPORTS

Can't tell since it's blacked out. But in the picture you posted before painting it looks like it sags.

 

Just the angle I took the photo from. No sagging. I am trying to let other members know that this is a quality product, so I want to clear up any misconceptions from my crappy pictures. (The last 3 photos were done by someone with a way better camera and photography skills)

u can still see the gap on the RREV grill but much better. all these aftermarket grills are fiberglass so it's going to chip and wear either way. but thanks for the review.

 

Not to sound offended, but there is NO gap. The bumper and the grille are in full contact at all points. That lip on the back of the grille slides into the factory grille catch. Sides? They are touching. Top? No sagging, and yes, it is also touching the hood. But since you brought it up, here is a high resolution zoomed-in picture of the grille. Please point out the gaps:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/GrilleFitmentZoom.jpg

where'd u get the rrev grill badge from, that looks sick

 

i have a ton of rrev stuff on my car now, cf grill, cf eyelids, cf mirrors, and soon to be red emblem in the front

 

R-Rev provided the badge for free upon request (I remember seeing one in a picture one time and asked about this badge, its kind of a test run right now). They were worried it would have trouble staying on the grille, but when I saw this badge, I knew I wanted it on the grille- and why it probably wouldnt stay; they use double-sided white foam tape on the back, which will not be powerful enough to hold on to mesh. I pulled that tape off, and replaced it with a strip of double-sided gray 3M body molding tape, which is the same tape I used to hold on the GT badge pictured on the AVO grille. This stuff will hold to over 100mph and lasts through rain and the elements, and I tested that over many months.

 

How much did you pay to have it painted? That looks fantastic BTW.

 

It was $80 for paint at a local dealership's body shop. It would have been more, because they wanted to fix every small imperfection due to pitting in the fiberglass, but it was unnoticeable enough to me that I told them not to. After it came out of paint I had no problems. Also, I removed the mesh ahead of time which saved some money.

 

That RRev grille does look good!

 

Thank you very much. I was skeptical at first about spending more than double the amount compared to the AVO, but it was well worth it.

Backstory: When I first sought out a grille, I looked for a something cheap because I couldn't justify over about $150 for a grille. I got a good deal on an AVO grille from Fred Beans parts spring of this year, paying less than $100 since it was a test-fit piece with minor damage. Fred Beans warned me ahead of time that the fitment was "far from perfect," but for the price, I couldn't complain. Eventually, I got tired of how this grille looked in person and how the pictures turned out with it on. I sold the AVO grille and bought a fiberglass R-Rev grille for just under $200 and got this one professionally painted for about $80. But, let's just say, you get what you pay for.

 

The Test:

Before I sold the AVO grille, I received the R-Rev grille and decided to do a side-by-side comparison of a cheap grille versus a high-end grille. I wanted to justify my purchase, and lets just say I don't regret getting the R-Rev for one second.

 

When I received the AVO Grille, it had been test fitted, but some of the drilling had torn the surrounding fiberglass. I got a few quotes from nearby bodyshops to repair the grille and get it paint-matched, but most of them wanted close to $200 for repair and paint. I decided this grille wasnt worth that much, so I drilled the holes out even further to achieve proper fitment, then bondo'd around them and sanded it down, and finally painted it with rattle-can semi-gloss black. The piece itself looked fine when I was done with it:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2310.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2314.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2311.jpg

 

But as far as fitment went, I was never satisfied. Shimming the bumper only marginally helped the lower fitment, and the top of the grille sagged. What many people don't mention about this grille is that even after drilling the holes out about 3/4" further back than they are when you receive the grille, the front of the grille is still too far back. You can actually see the catch for the factory grille's lip when the grille is installed. Here are some photos of fitment:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2329.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2330.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/GrilleSurround.jpg

 

I did a few side-to-side comparisons of the AVO grille and the R-Rev grille (white, before paint). First thing I noticed was the grille mesh was already powdercoated, unlike the cheapo mesh on the AVO that I spray-bombed. Second, the AVO grille had loops built in to the back for fastening the mesh with zip ties or equivalent fasteners. The R-Rev has bendable metal clips on the back that insert into the mesh and tie in place. Finally, the R-Rev has a lip molded into it on the bottom that works with the factory grille catch:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2320.jpg

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2328.jpg

 

This is the only grille I know of on the market that has this catch. I did the fitment of the R-Rev grille before it was painted since I had learned from the AVO that there will probably be some modification necessary. There was necessary modification, but minor modification. The bottom catch was slightly too thick and required about 5 minutes of sanding to fit in the factory lip. The holes required small drilling modification, but not more than about a 1/4" off. Also, one of the holes had some runoff of fiberglass and needed to be drilled out:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2309.jpg

 

After drilling:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2315.jpg

 

After making these modifications, I fitted the grille, and it looked much better. Here are the holes lining up with the pop-its put in place:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2318.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2324.jpg

 

And finally, a side-by-side comparison:

 

AVO:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2329.jpg

 

R-Rev:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/2005%20Legacy%20GT/Grille%20Comparison/DSCF2326.jpg

 

And the final product, paint-matched, complete with a new look, the proprietary R-Rev emblem:

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/The%20Crew/DSC_0011reedit.jpg

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/The%20Crew/DSC_0013edit.jpg

 

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/jrroszko/The%20Crew/DSC_0021edit.jpg

page 2196, EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-326, of my 2005 vacation pix have a pretty funny shot of me under the dash diagnosing an accelerator pedal position sensor

Hell yeah man. Great job.

I personally opted for the 8.5" width Grids, because I realized that they would have a more timeless look than the low offset 9.5" wide Grids. If they fit the car, they would look a little better, like a 9" wide that someone suggested. But they do look a little too trendy for me, and trends come and go. The only thing about this trend that bugs me is the tiny stretched tires. Either way, I do kind of like the trend right now purely aesthetically, so props to a clean looking car, OP.

That looks phenominal.

Any updates?

-you WILL NEED the slide hammer/hub puller

 

I cannot stress this enough. I went to town on my hub for about 5 hours with a heavy sledge hammer before I rented the slide hammer and FWD hub adapter. Let's just say the hammer didnt even BUDGE it; the slide hammer had it off in about 5 minutes. Dont waste your time thinking a hammer will do the trick...chances are, it won't.

The T fitting that the 05's have in the vaccum lines. I hear its one of the most important things to in the vaccum lines.

 

I think I was just looking at that the other day when the car was apart for a clutch. Maybe it's colored green in the first diagram? The 3-way joint near the purge valve?

^ What exactly are you referring to?

oh and to those of you who want to run full battery voltage on a Walbro 255: I can tell you from personal experience with that (not on an LGT) that they don't call them "Whinebros" for nothing. They are annoyingly loud. I've got a Cosmo 20B-REW 3 rotor pump on one project car and a 2JZ Supra TT pump on another and they are much quieter than the Walbro was. Those pumps are also made by Denso.

I'm actually surprised the actual FP supply voltage comes from the ECU. I'm normally accustomed to seeing the ECU control a relay that is wired to B+.

 

I guess it's just a Subaru thing.

 

I'm not convinced at all that the ECU directly drives the fuel pump . That doesn't make much sense. There's too much current. I've NEVER seen a sequential fuel injection system which does that. I looked through the '05 LGT service manual and unfortunately the fuel pump control pins on the ECU are not specifically detailed in the pinout. We do have this basic diagram though:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89016&stc=1&d=1282328307

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89018&stc=1&d=1282328557

 

 

In red I have shown where I believe the main power for the fuel pump comes from, which is listed as fuse #11. It's highly likely that the ECU controls a few transistors in the control module which in turn regulate the current to the pump.

 

If any of you have worked on older 90s cars, a lot of them have various types of seperate/external igniter boxes for the ignition system. SR20DET and 13BREW engines have these kind of boxes for their distributorless systems, plus GM and Honda have ignitors for their distributors with electronic spark advance. These modules contain various transistors and other circuits which then control the ignition coils. The ECU doesn't ever directly drive the ignition system, and I highly doubt Subaru is directly driving the fuel pump either.

 

The LGT ECU switches on the fuel pump relay which supplies the main current from the fuse box for the fuel pump. The control module is in-line with this current supply and a chassis ground. Two pins from the ECU may control transistors in the control module which in turn control the power and/or ground to the pump itself.

On older 80s and 90s cars they usually have a two-speed system with a resistor. Bypassing that can help because resistance in the system increases as the car ages. But with a PWM design there's not much of a point in completely bypassing the fuel pump module.

Does the fuel pump controller vary the voltage through resistors? Or is the pump somehow pulsewidth modulated?

This absolutely pales in comparison to the vacuum diagram for my 1983 Mazda Rx-7. I stripped the carb and engine of all emissions controls and it stall has more vacuum lines than our Legacies. Thank god for modern cars!

 

Ha! You've never worked on a 3rd gen have you.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88679&stc=1&d=1281664981

 

3000GT Vr-4 (twin turbo) are also nightmares, especially with the twin intercoolers and associated piping:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88680&stc=1&d=1281665245

 

 

I agree that an LGT is a walk in the park compared to some vehicles though. The drive-by-wire helps simplify the idle controls.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88538&stc=1&d=1281363875

 

Feel free to speak up if I didn't color something right. Original credit goes to Subaru.

 

This is for the fuel and emissions systems. The boost control, crankcase breathers, and air bypass valve (BOV) are not covered in this diagram. Subaru doesn't seem to have supplied a "complete" vacuum routing diagram like a lot of other manufacturers do. You should see a 1993 Rx-7 vacuum routing diagram... 76 hoses.

 

Here is a colored diagram to show turbo system routing:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88558&stc=1&d=1281402455

 

Finally, here is a diagram of the crankcase ventilation. The diagram was left uncolored so as not to obscure the arrows which show how the air flows.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88559&stc=1&d=1281402455

 

Also, for an ECU pinout for 2005-2006 see this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/click-here-2005-legacy-gt-ecu-pinout-126185.html?t=126185

Just convinced my buddy with an 05 STi to do the Hogzaust. He's happier than a hog in sh*t, must be why they call it the hogzaust.

Haha to Post 123 and 125

From this thread:

Clutch Buying Guide - NASIOC

 

Some useful information on Clutchmasters clutches:

 

Using this chart:

http://www.clutchmasters.com/images/partNumberGuide.jpg

 

Here are the Torque Specs (for 06-08 WRX, which is the same clutch the LGT uses):

15-106-HD00-SF ...525 lbs

15-106-HDTZ-SF ...595 lbs

15-106-HDCB4-SF ...655 lbs

15-106-HDCB6-SF ...655 lbs

15-106-HDB4-SF ...655 lbs

15-106-HDB6-SF ...655 lbs

 

Some other gathered info on 06-08 WRX Clutches:

 

Company Name/Part Number/Torque capacity is the format.

 

Exedy 15804 287

South Bend Clutch STAGE 1 RALLY 316

Exedy 15952 326

South Bend Clutch STAGE 2 TZ 345

ACT SB5-HDMM 420

South Bend Clutch STAGE 3 OFE 450

ACT SB5-HDG6 537

ACT SB5-HDG4 537

ACT SB5-HDR6 537

ACT SB5-HDR4 537

South Bend Clutch STAGE 4 SS OFE 550

Exedy FM032XD 585

South Bend Clutch STAGE 4 SS FE 650

This is the third new scooby it's been on but I still like it

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=596&pictureid=3161

 

I like this one lol