teK--

I would think all the reports that the problem is worse when cold, is due to the grease being thicker and causing more resistance as well. Best to get it fixed earlier before the next winter

Good detective work. Hopefully they don't ask you how many hundred thousand you want to buy

 

Alternatively, now you have the motor specs just go to a hobby or electronics shop and see if you can find a similar replacement for much cheaper.

No worries Amirz.

 

The motor looks like any run of the mill DC electric motor. Much the same as used in those little Tamiya motorised cars we use to race in primary school

 

You may be able to swap another motor or its guts in, or move the worm gear over.

 

Good luck with it!

Thanks Chrisay. Was your repair unsuccessful or did you do a rush job and just need to clean it up a bit?

 

I was mindful that when I superglued the casing back together that there was no going back it would be hard to open it up again. Accordingly I spent a lot of time cleaning and checking everything beforehand.

Thanks to Chrisay's suggestion I opened mine up today and repaired successfully. The motor is in a sealed plastic case which can be fairly easiy split open by running a craft knife along the seam.

 

It's a poor design on Subaru's behalf. Motor sits at the bottom of the case where molten grease collects (and there is a LOT of it). Hopefully with all the excess cleaned out now I am good for another 6 years.

 

I wrote up a DIY:

 

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10479

Recalls are only for safety issues. I'd hardly call this as such.

Thanks Andrew. As part of the parts I will supply to the shop are:

 

- New clutch kit inc. new solid flywheel to replace the dual mass one

- Spigot ("Pivot") bearing

- Tranquil TSK1 kit (I have a 2.5i so don't use the TSK3)

- Front driveshaft seals

- 1 quart of gearbox oil as topup.

 

Is there anything else I have missed?

1) Just to keep the motor level, yes.

2) It spills from the propshaft , mostly after you tilt it down to remove it

3) I did not. I didn't plan on removing the axles so I didn't have the seals to hand. Also I figure that getting to the axles is a 20mins/side job that I can do *if* they leak. They haven't.

4) I swapped out the mbike jack for two trolley jacks for reinstallation. My cheap tranny jack didn't have the correct tilt adjustment (it tilts side/side not front/back??) A proper tranny jack is the way to go.

 

 

Thankyou Scruit for taking the time to put all this info together, it is very clear and informative, I find it also quite timely as I am learning as much as I can in advance of needing to have my clutch/flywheel replaced.

 

Although I will get a shop to do it due to my lack of facilities, I always like to know what will need to be done so I can ask the right questions for peace of mind.

 

Regarding Point 2, how much fluid is lost; is it a case that it only spills out as the transmission is tilted? In which case is there a seal on the propshaft which needs/should be replaced at the same time? I will likely get my front driveshaft seals replaced at the same time since there is a slight weep in one of them anyway.

Roby this is one of the most informative posts I have read in this whole forum. Nice work, it has allowed me to learn a lot more about how my rear wheels hook up to the tarmac.

 

Thankyou

Can anyone who has the workshop manual please check what the harness # is called? I have a RHD and the only harness that sounds remotely correct (R192, description "seat buzzer") appears to be in a different location.

 

If sitting in a LHD car, the workshop manual desribes the harness to be under the passenger seat and forward of all the airbag connectors, close to the door side of the seat. This diagram does not show the harness to be in a different location even for RHDs hence the confusion.

 

The harness described in the OP according to my diagram is black coloured, under LHD driver's seat, close to door side and labelled as R09 "power seat".