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whitetiger

I Donated Too
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Posts posted by whitetiger

  1. thats only if you want to use the spec b tail housing. if you find a full sti tail housing and assembly, its a direct swap. don't forget, you should also install the STI front helical diff too. to really make it the complete package. 

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  2. the spec.b 6mt is a VLSD. it will be hard to check without removing it for a visual. luckily its pretty straight forward to take off the tail piece of the 6mt to do that. you may as well just replace it if you have concerns, as the part isnt that pricey and the install is not difficult. You could also take this opportunity to upgrade to a DCCD unit instead. In fact, why not upgrade the front diff to a STI helical as well. 

  3. yeah, using zip ties as spring compressors is a good way to win a darwin award. a reasonable set of spring compressors can be had off amazon for under $40.

     

    my set is similar to these - https://www.amazon.com/BTSHUB-Spring-Compressor-Suspension-Removal/dp/B08B88V245/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=spring+compressor&qid=1656177407&s=automotive&sprefix=spring+comp%2Cautomotive%2C67&sr=1-34

     

    do it right, do it safe.

  4. FWIW the dealership rarely does this work, and if they do, only its mostly on steel arms, given the rarity of Spec.B's coming in to the dealership. More likely they just replace the whole arm and don't do bushing work at all. you should be upset, but i would not have had high expectations from them. how much would it have cost you to get the right size cups to do it on your own? probably less than you would have spent extra to avoid this incident i bet.
  5. the rears are so easy to do if you have to a-la-carte it. a shop shouldnt charge you much more to put the strut assemblies together, but yes, if the shop is doing labor, it might approach about 1k in labor.

     

    I strongly recommend you try to do as much as you can on your own. the 4th gen chassis is so easy to work on. if you have a cheap 1/2" electric impact gun, you can do nearly all of it. Maybe have the shop do the front LCAs if the ball joints are rusty, and if the rear toe arm eccentrics are seized you may have to have the shop sawzall them out, but thats about as hard as it may get.

  6. I'm still optimistic, for the short term at least. It burned 2 quarts of oil on the 1500 mile drive home, but it never registered a single misfire, and the timing grid is all zeros. The powertrain is still 100% stock; I'll give it the good ol' stage 2 treatment - catless UP, Invidia DP, VF52, and Cryotune. Sticking to stock fueling. We'll see how long the short block lasts after that; if it goes after 20K miles, so be it. This is going to be my long term car.

     

    It feels great to drive a good LGT again.

     

    2qts per 1500 mi? switch to a 5w-40 oil and start buying YNANSBAT parts now. if you want longevity, just do stage 1 with UP. enjoy the car, you are on borrowed time.

  7. ******* Facebook!!! :spin: Hate that useless, time wasting piece of crap, full of frustrated menopausal bitches.

     

    Participating in FB groups is like pissing words in the wind. You never can find anything there, even if you saw it a moment ago and know what to look for. It's such ******* waste of time. I refuse to participate in that shit.

     

    This ******* evil company hopefully will go under sooner or later. That flip-flop hoody wearing moron fucked when he came up with the metaverse nonsense. Good riddance you ******* dickhead.

     

    Uncle needs a hug....:lol:

     

    FWIW though, the legacy gt group on facebook is a 100% shit show.

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