markc0220k

I did the big Mishimoto AL radiator years ago, not sure if the larger volume made a big difference in long life. It does have a AOS that mounts to the oil fill tube, but I don't plan to do that to my 09 Spec B.[/url]

 

 

are they direct fit? since im going to replace the engine mount, i'll have to remove radiator bolts/fans in order to life the engine anyway, best time to do it as well i think? thanks Max

They do have a kit or a hose rather that lets you flow coolant cyclinder 4 to drop its temperature some. I paid like 75 bucks for one.... why not.

 

http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/

 

ok, my parts are about done and should be arrive to my door within a week or so. start picking up few more things online then getting my gloves on again.

 

i found getadomtune tubing neither plastic nor aluminum T are currently unavailable. wherelse can i pick up one please? thanks Tehnation

polish.

 

i think so too.. but i find nowhere to prove it.

 

coz i'm getting price quote from jet hot. They asked me that the manifold and upppipe are polish finish or chrome.

 

thanks whitetiger

is tomei elh manifold chrome or polish finish, couldnt find any info over their jp web page. btw, i guess p/n. begins with T meaning it's made in taiwan?

https://www.jet-hot.com/

 

 

oh thanks for reminder, i've seen this name here before, just email and quote, waiting for reply from them now.

Why can't you have just the downpipe coated ? no need to do past that.

 

what do you mean?

 

The up pipe can be coated by itself.

 

yes, im planning to do all header/uppipe/downpipe coated individually. then assembling them by myself.

 

IMO no need to coat that adapter

 

i think so too to have the whole piece coat execpt the outlet, but the shop passed me to their coating dealer and so far no email yet. i think they don't want to due with a trouble customer like me..

btw, they both fit perfectly so far, but yes, i agree that there is not much space for the coating. what shall i do now?

i just get my cobb dpipe mod, from fig.1- OD:2.34" (59.5mm) to fig.2 OD:2.75" (70mm) and now i'm looking for a shop who could do a good quality ceremic cotaing. will also do header/upper all at once. any suggestion please?

 

(edit: before i'd asked a shop to coat, but i was told the thickness of coating may too thick to joint the new outlet to midpipe (ID 72.3mm). so i asked them to trim it. but they seems not really want to mod/touch the pipe beside coating. so shall i trim it myself before asking other shops? or possible to coat the whole part execpt that outlet (yellow section)? i don't know, coz the cobb came like that originally. see fig.3)

 

 

thanks,

mark

actually i bought a donut that fits 2.5 to my 3"tbe, but since i'm going to take my dpipe to cc, so think i better do it 3" straight at the beginning.

Guessing you don't want to use the grimmspeed 2.5" to 3" adapter.

 

Yes.

 

 

 

ok, bought and hopefully someone could cut/weld a 3"outlet and the flange for me soon (problem is wife and i are sharing a forester for us to work, my lgt is still on the jackstands ...)

so what this part's name is? exhaust flange right?

Or did you reach out to T1 and they said they no longer do that to the cars they build ?

 

yes, i did contact them (Mitch Mixon?). they said they just do the coating, but not doing pipe modify anymore. Problem now is the outlet of the dpipe is 2.5" and will attach to 3" TBE. So i'm looking for muffler shop could do the mod for me before mailing T1 all elh/uppipe/downpipe. i guess it's better to cut/welding before ceramic coat a whole piece rite?

 

I'm also confused about if you have a 3" downpipe, do you have a 3" Dp ?

 

yes, this is the dpipe (see pic)

 

Unless your planning for big HP, why are you getting a ELH ?

 

i'm not focusing power at this moment (supporting mod?), did lots of reading and found ppl said to avoid ringland failure on no.4 cylinder? will also pick up a getadom tube soon i install all parts/axle boot repair.

 

gtg, thanks again byron,

 

heading out with my dpipe now, will keep checking this post via my phone,see any shop could do (coz all of them said they either said don't have 3"flange or don't know what it is, yet need to see the actual pipe first). the most concern to me is they don't angle the flange correctly. x.x"

decided to take my elh/uppipe/dpipe to ceramic coated (thanks Byron, unfortunately they the coating shop said they don't do it anymore:spin: )

 

So today i made few calls to few muffler shops and wanted to get a price quote for making flange from 2.5" to 3", but they all said they need to take a look first.

 

want to see how much it would be cost about before going out tmr morning.

 

thanks

a yr ago i bought a cobb dpipe with cat, but its outlet ( where attach to the tbe) seems like 2.5", any good muffler shop in houston to mod it to 3 to 3 before taking it to do coating please? i'd made few calls to few shops, but don't quite feel like to let them do it. main concern is not sure if they would make the angle toward to the midpipe correctly, thanks.

 

(reason i didn't exhange? thought about to simply wrap it, until these couple weeks after many reading i believe i better to get it coated:(.)

 

thanks

thts why im asking who has it no wrap and/or no coating, and really want to see how long it could last. i knw some would said condition could be a factor, here texas has barely snowing and acid rain i think??

 

anyway, thanks byron

im looking for a good local shop to do my 3-to-2.5 cobb dpipe mod before mailing the header/downpipe to them

I'm a big fan of Spec Clutches. Been using them for years.

 

Go to Spec's site and call them, ask for Danny Smith, tell him I sent you. He can sell you a 2+ clutch for your car.

 

 

well, when i came to tell us about your vehicle, ... carbon or single?

I have a hard steering wheel shaking when braking at light and medium pressure above about 60mph.

 

it wasnt too "hard shaking" but it did happen on my 09 after a weekend trackday (at 8k old). as i had similar situation with my miata years ago, so i took both front rotors to local autozone to resurface, put a new set of pads, then shake's gone and gradually come back after few years (50+k old). And it was time to replace the pads anyway, so i replaced all rotors/pads as well (before 60k). then i don't see any shake until now (120+k).

as the topic, does anyone's aftermarket ss header without wrap/coating? picture? and how many old is it please? thanks

thanks Bryon, just sent them an email, i might open another thread and ask if anyone has the header installed without wrap or cc. thanks again.

yes, but heard it would increase heat retention, then metal fatigue in order to the coating and joints starting cracked?.. thus i don't know if i should wrap or cc it

....

ok, i picked up tomei elh, but then i asked Cobb and asked if their ots stage2 map compatible with elh. i know i have to protune anyway, but i don't think i could make a trip to tune soon these 1~2 months due to my super tight working schedule, their answer is "It should only be used with the stock headers thanks".

 

again, is ots stage 2 map safe for elh? thanks

still waiting for input before i pull the trigger. seariously, i know nothing execpt they'all from one manufactory.

 

i also heard some said tomei's quality aint like years ago (e.g. ft86 and Evo), then i went back the thread here (Header Design theroy & turbo EJ header ) that got me confused, coz reviews are quite mixed.

 

... so i really want to hear anyone who has it installed recently, or knows more about their info.

 

thanks again..

Not sure if mine ans is correct, but i just simply clear the code. The point is, i knew i didn't engage the clutch well, almost die at a stop light then the cel pop up.

 

4~5yrs ago first time i had P0304, i took my car to a shop, they suggested to change the plugs and coil packs, plus few things (O2 sensors, waterpump and etc) i forgot. i know they were trying to steal my paycheck, but since it was about 80k so i did it. but then the same night the code pop up again due to i guess my bad clutch engaging (the idle was very low, i believed it was just because the battery has been disconnected, so the ecu reset and relearning?). anyway i called the shop next day and they said something nonsense to me, so i ignored them (because a week after i picked up my car from the shop, i turn on ac and i realised they mess it up, my freon was all gone! So i don't trust them anymore..) and clear the code myself.

 

At the time i realised that every period of time i changed/disconnect the battery, ecu reset/relearn, thus idle went low, at the time i had bad clutch engage at stop light and thats cause the P0304 code!

 

Since then i just simply clear it (yes, i changed battery few times, removed and charged it many times, then same ecu/low idle + bad clutching few times!). Mine is 120+k now. beside the CEL, i don't see anything wrong before and after clearing the code.

 

hope this help

first, after many readings ( thanks everyone taking time to read my stupid posts and reply me here, they always reply me within a day or so like a code team!) .. my decision is made and will pick up an elh and a #4 cylinder cooling tubing.

 

 

Since many ppl suggested gt spec here that quite fit my goal and of coz wallet, also nasioc and scoobynet. i started searching and found there are three diff brands (Agency Power, Tomei expreme, IAG perf elh and Prosport SS header ) are looked quite alike the same to me.. if they are exact the same piece, i may skip tomei with those extra cost for heatwrap that i'm not going to do it anyway.

 

 

i know we have thousands of threads that been talking about wrap vs ceramic coat vs naked... here i want to see how many ppl who just actually leaves it naked? any drawback if remain unwraped beside 200~300rpm spool sooner or +10ish whp? my goal is just mainly trying to prolong engine life instead of power, so i don't think i would rewrap it every 2~3yrs

 

 

Secondary, engine bay heat is my concern now, heatshield seems the best solution to me but i don't see anyone talk about it since most aftermarket headers dont come with heatshielf (why??) ... diy header shield, anyone pls?

 

 

beside, issue of melting underneath plastic tray, some apply insulation on the plastic, or even replace it with a huge diy pvc(?) pad or an aluminum skidpad instead ( but i don't see there is a "window" for me to do oil change?!). anyone with those naked "gt spec" elh has similar melting issue?

 

 

thanks,

 

 

oh, Happy New Years guys