Aeolus

I've got old set of HSD coilovers that came on my old 2001 BE. The bushings in the rear passenger coilover is failing resulting in the rod that goes from what I think is the control arm to the bottom of the coilover bending. It looks like the disk between the bolt and the coiler failed and the nut is inside the bottom of the coilover. I didn't see what I thought I needed on HSD's website, but I don't have the vocabulary to know what I'm looking for beyond "bushing for coilover". I reached out to them so I'll see what they say. That said, my questions are: 1. Will I definitely need HSD bushings? 2. What name/terminology should I be using to look for the bushing and rod that goes through the. Bushing? 3. Has anyone replaced the bushing for their coilovers before and if so do you have any tips? I have found a few various ways on YT folks have used to remove the old coilover and replace it with a new one. Thanks!

What's that in your CD player? If the previous turbo were to have let undetected pieces slip the damage they could have caused would have manifested already--no? I've got a 2005 I bought off someone here and recently (in last six months) I discovered it's got a burnt valve, and this is cheaper than a new engine for that one.

Did you find a buyer?

Update: A tech my dad knows mentioned it could be carbon problem. I noticed on a report from one shop I had do some work mentioned the car was due for a carbon cleaning. I had a different local shop do that and that seems to have fixed it. It still feels to idle slightly inconsistently, but I've not had the CEL appear since. Here's to hoping it was just the carbon!

I've got cracks in the exhaust header of my 2001 Legacy GT. I'm told I need to replace it and am having problems finding an OEM one, and most seem to be +$600. I did find this but I'm not sure if this is pure garbage and my sense of an appropriate price for the part is out of wack. The muffler at least is aftermarket (not installed by me) and is AFAIK catless. I only say that in case it matters the exhaust header that i can have installed. That said, I don't need anything fancy.

So this car actually had possibly similar work to what I think will be needed at the place I plan on calling. There are pictures of the work in that CL post. I calculated the two pages to a bit over $5k. Can the turbo be "checked" to see if it is fine for new heads or new shortblock and heads? Should I have the new place do a leakdown test on all cylinders? I have no idea why the last place only gave me two. I think it was to imply these were the only cylinders that seemed bad? To answer financial/need questions: I'm married with to incomes but neither of us make a ton. We own a house that I fell into at a great price and a ton of liquidity. Bought my dad's house and paid his loan and took some out for remodels. I get to work on a RadRunner (electric bike) and the wife had been driving the red (now "dead"...eh? eh?) car. She's been switching between driving the other GT (2001) and car pooling with a friend from work. The farthest we typically drive from home is 15 miles one way, though would like to be able to get to Seattle and farther afield sometimes. This car isn't a need. But I really do love driving it when I do. I may be trying to convince myself spending 5k (or a bit more) makes more sense than putting that money to a new car, but neither of us really wants to be spending $300+ a month on a newer used car for the next 3-4 years because car loans are a shade less crazy than owning a boat when it comes to valuable investments. Maybe the tranny is going to go soon though too. I don't know. Is there a way to tell? ---- Sidebar regarding the commonality of burnt valves on these cars. I read here and have seen some others in these forums and elsewhere the fuel injectors might be the cause. I also read that tunes can solve the weak fuel problem, and have read that it can be just a matter of high miles. Maybe the valves aren't a high quality? I ask all these questions for a few reasons: if I decide to A fix this or B buy something similar someday I'd like to as best I can avoid this problem. With the current car we were Johnnie-on-the spot with oil changes using premium oil, and always bought premium fuel. We put ~30k miles on it since purchase. The day I drove the car home (after purchasing it) I noticed it ran a little rough, but no one else seemed to notice and I have a tendency towards hypochondria so I thought it was just me or it was how a tuned car ran. After that I only drove the car occasionally, and I didn't notice the rougher idle until very recently and after it threw the CEL.

Not sure if this matters at all but I got the compression test numbers (as they were given to me) and leakdown test. The compression when cold was 145 and when warm 125 Leakdown test was 20% on cylinder 2 and 18% on cylinder 4.

~~Who?~~ never mind. Found it. He's parting shit out....Is that what you meant?

How can one tell? I think the dealer (not the outfit who told me the valve is burnt) was going to charge me 1700 to do that back when I let them look at the car when I was first getting the CEL and they said it was missing on two cylinders. I was shocked they said the valves were too tight (think that was the term) or I needed a new engine because i had read a number of possible causes to a miss that they didn't seem interested in investigating.

You're pretty hung up on this price. Maybe 9k is a lot for a new motor? Again, this is for a new motor, but **** if I know. I did say it always idled slightly rough, but it was getting worse and on my way to the shop it was dying on me when I stopped, so by the time they go their hands on it it was more than just idling rough. I plan on calling another shop regardless. Here is what they said regarding compression after replacing the spark plugs: "It still almost stalls. Compression is good and within spec but is 10 psi low on one side, would like to perform a leak down test on that bank to see if it has a brunt valve" "The leak down test that [tech's name] has performed and double checked leads to a burnt valve and failing piston rings." Then he quotes the new motor+turbo price and labor. Notably, he suggested the other shop I had planned on talking to about this saying, "N.W. Rally sports. . . they do remans and rebuilds" and gives me their number. I'm not convinced that I'm being taken for a ride her necessarily, but I don't' think that getting a second opinion is a bad idea. Since the car as been home I've not tried to start it. is Jegs a good place to buy these crate remanufactured engines? It depends on what "the money" is, and whether I want to put that money into it. I was partially wanting to know if I was crazy to repair it because something also super expensive (like the*tranny or something) was also likely to go. I'm not interested in putting anywhere near the price I was quoted for the new motor+turbo and labor, but the*closer we get to 5k the more I'm considering it. I actually have the "BRAND new Epic Springs and slightly used (12k miles) Bilstein HD struts come with the car uninstalled. " from the original owner. He said that the Tein Flex adjustable coilovers needed replacing but I've not done so and I've not had any problems, so if I need to replace them I have replacements already. If it matters to anyone this is where I plan on going next to see what they think. https://www.nwrallysports.com is this IAG company going to get me a better product than the Jegs crate engines? (https://www.iagperformance.com/2005-Subaru-Legacy-GT-Staged-Engine-Blocks-s/7216.htm) What's a "closed deck" shortblock? Why does a head need to be "machined? Is that cheaper than buying the longblock? How does one know if the machine shop the head goes to is good or not? So may questions. Sorry guys. I really appreciate everyone trying to guide me through this decision.

$9566.60 for a new motor and turbo, and $2749.68 in labor. The full quote of 12k was with +600 in spark plug work I threw down the drain.

So as the consensus of 2 comments here (I'm sure more will say the same) is that selling the car is the best option, what seems like a fair price for the car as-is? What dollar limit makes it not worth it? Like I said in OP, they quoted me $13k for a new engine ($9k) and a little over 2k to install it. Is a used engine price + install really more cost effective than getting $2k for the car and using that towards a new vehicle? I've skimmed a lot of your posts on the subject in other threads and this one. They've been informative. Forgive my ignorance, but is the point in directing me there (since I said I don't have the tools or space to do any work) to show me the volume of work involved, and hint at the labor expense?

This is the car my post is about. There are a handful of mods of which I've not changed nothing. Summary vehicle: 2005 Legacy GT LTD Stg 2 + extras. (I even have the v1 AccessPort that I hear is super out of date) We've put an additional ~30k miles on it, but it's been my wife's dd since. It always ran a tiny bit rough at idle, but recently it was worse than normal and we got ECL for a miss on 2. Long story short a leak down test revealed that we have a burnt valve and failing piston rings. they quoted me $13K on an new engine installed. I don't want to put that much money into a car with 195k miles on the rest of the machine. I have a few questions. Would it be better and most economic to: I'm in the Pacific NW (north of Seattle). I don't have a garage or tools for any work related to removing or reinstalling the engine, nor do I know anyone with such items/locations so any of this work would be done by a Subaru shop I planned on calling and repeating the above question to them (Northwest Rally Sport). Have the motor rebuilt (is this even possible at this stage?) Swap the motor out for a JDM one. Swap the motor out of a US one. Sell as is and put money to a new-to-us car. Thanks for any and all advice! P.S. The original owner had a clutchmaster clutch in it (see linked FS post). The release point was always low, but everyone that drives it (save for one tech) has complained recently and encouraged me to replace it. Is a low release a clutchmaster thing, or a performance clutch thing, or is is likely it really does need replacing? I don't know who to trust when it comes to cars. I'm more of a computer guy. :-\