legacy_specB

Thanks I am curious what was your trap speed?

Is that with a built 5EAT?

Trap speed was 127mph. And yes it's a built 5EAT

That is a lot of power but I would have thought quite a bit faster for the power (?). Trap speed?

Haven't been able to make another event since with all that's going on in the world. We ran 11.8 on street tires. Had tons of wheel spin in 1st to 3rd. Hopefully the next run will be with proper tires on a prepped track. Will update once that happens.

Whoops! Sorry.

Car has a fully built engine, ported heads, BW EFR 7670 turbo. Car made 501whp and 403wtq, but for the run we were around 470whp with a shot of nitrous to get it off the line in 1st up to 5500rpm. We installed a window switch that made sure that the nitrous was only spraying up to 5500rpm. Reason for this is the transmission would not shift if it was allowed to spray any higher. We also had to raise the rpm to around 8200 and limit throttle to 60% just before the shift to ensure that it shifts properly.

Transmission has a Hexmods VB, solid center diff bushings and a new center diff that was cryo treated and shot peened before install. Clutch packs are Exedy clutches. We machined the Steels to allow us to pack more clutches in each clutch pack so for eg a clutch pack that usually has 5 clutches now has 9. This way we hold alot more tq. IPT high stall converter. IPT says it's a 4500 stall but I've never been able to stall it that high. Highest I've seen it go is about 3800.

Everything else with the drive train is stock. Stock axles, driveshaft etc.

As mentioned before the car ran 11.824 but the mph was wrong. Time slip showed 140mph but the track team said that it was higher than it actually was.

Hope this helps. If you guys have any more questions just let me know.

I know its an old thread but I ran 11.824 on my full weight 5eat Legacy Spec B just over a month ago. Car is making 501whp and 402wtq on C16.

I can post the dyno graph and time slip if you like.

Event: Street Shootout

Location: Wallerfield international Raceway

Date: 16/02/2020

11.824s - legacy_specB 5eat

Ambient Temp: 88F

Elevation: Sea level

Weather: Clear

Car: 2005 Legacy Spec B

Tuner: Ryan of Rtune

Transmission: 5EAT transmission

Peak Horse Power at RPM: 501whp @6600 rpm

Peak Torque at RPM: 403wtq @6500 rpm

Fuel: C16

Engine/Power Modifications: EJ20 engine, EFR7670, Built engine, ported heads, GSC S2 cams.

Driveline Modifications: Built transmission, Hexmods Valvebody and Solid bushings, IPT Clutches, Stock driveshaft and axles

Suspension Modifications: BC Coilovers, Cusco sway and strut bars, Perrin endlinks

Other Modifications: Full weight and street tires

Nice info , even with the above procedure I don't understand how resetting the tcu will stop the delay in shifts?

 

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Resetting the TCU in addition to cutting throttle at redline will result in a faster shift. This in conjunction with the VB mod and raising line pressures through the ECU etc. This will only work when shifting at redline. Dont expect a 20ms shift tho.....as you would need access to the TCU programming for that..

Does the valve body mod apply to the manual mode or just full auto. I like having more control over the car in manual mode but I wanna be sure there won’t be that huge delay in response between shifting up and the actual shift. That’s the main reason I want this. I hate that it takes so long to manually shift

 

 

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The valvebody mod applies to every 'mode'. However, the valvebody sends different line pressures depending on what mode you drive in. Full auto uses a lower line pressure than sport mode or manual mode. This is why generally full auto mode is smoother.

The delay in the shifts has nothing to do with the valvebody mod. This delay in manual mode is a software delay and there is no tuning around it as we cannot access the TCU to remove that delay. The best bet is to do a TCU reset and then drive the car how you would like the car to drive at all times in manual mode. That way the valvebody will relearn your driving style and shift to match that style when in sport mode.

So for example from the factory the car will try to get in the highest gear possible as quickly as possible. Let's say that at 20% throttle the car shifts from 1st to 4th at 2000rpm for each shift. After the TCU reset put the car in manual mode take a long drive and shift every gear at 3000rpm. You will notice that when in full auto or sport mode the car will try to rev to 3000rpm every time before shifting and will even hold lower gears longer.

Hope this helps

Has anyone determined the wear effects of a valve body modification? If the valve body is shifting harder and faster wouldn’t it in turn wear the transmission faster?

 

 

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Faster firmer shifts is actually better when it comes to wear of the transmission components. Less time shifting means less slip between shifts. As mentioned if the shifts are firmer that means other components of the drivetrain will be absorbing the shock of the shifts. A simple way around this is reducing the throttle through the DBW tables a couple hundred rpm before redline so that at the moment of the shift the transmission is seeing less tq than usual thus making the shift faster, less slippage and less shock at the moment of the shift. Once the new gear is selected and full throttle is reapplied the shock seen by the transmission is considerably less and more gradual.

Did you pull the vb yourself and send it off or have someone do it? They quoted me like 1500 to pull it, upgrade, and reinstall. I feel like that’s a lot for the amount of labor involved. I just can’t seem to find a good walkthru for removal.

 

 

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Yes I pulled it myself and sent it to upgrade. Who quoted you 1500 to remove, upgrade and reinstall?

Now, I've always wondered, How streetable is the vb mod? Can it still be a daily driven ride, or is it to aggressive for stop and go traffic omw to work. And does the s, s# modes make a difference? (I'm driving an 07 lgt with stage 2 mods)

The VB mod shifts like stock at partial throttle but shifts quicker and firmer at WOT. Stop and go traffic there is no noticeable difference. You start getting harder shifts when you start interfering with the clutch packs and dont set the clearance right. Once the clearance remains close to stock it drives and feels like a stock transmission until you step on the gas.

I’m thinking of having my valve body done by level 10. He told me it’s going to be a night and day difference. Shift so fast and hard it might break loose on wet pavement. Or so he says. How much difference did the valve body actually make for you?

 

 

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The VB upgrade definitely does make a big difference. I currently break loose in 2nd and 3rd on dry pavement lol. Depends on your power levels tho. VB upgrade alone will only take you so far....

I know this is an old thread but just to add some info for those who still may be interested.

I am a built 4th gen 5eat owner and we recently tuned my legacy to 416WHP with no slippage whatsoever.

The transmission has Hexmods F1 VB, solid bushings and new shot peened, cryotreated center diff gears. We also did a full rebuild of the transmission using the rebuild kit supplied by IPT and also added the extra Exedy clutch packs also supplied by IPT.

The transmission performs very well at this power level. We had to stop tuning because we started running out of fuel so as soon as the fuel upgrades are complete, I can update you guys if you are interested.