authenticamd

What Infosecdad said. Absolutely no need to jack up the engine for plugs. Coil packs require that simple trick, plugs are trivial with proper socket (I use a swivel Snap-on socket that's perfect length for the purpose - can insert/remove the plug on the socket easily in all cylinders).

 

 

Do you happen to know the part number for that Snap-on socket?

Took me 5.5 hours. It is a PITA with the stupid air pump emissions thing. Had to do driver rear plug with car on lift because I didn't know how to disconnect the plastic tube from the air pump. At least the rear coilpack can be removed if you turn it just right.

Surprise, I'm seeing the problem now. Just happened during the summer heat strangely enough. I will have to see if the soldering trick fixes it.

Also, should knock sum not increase during high load (>1) pulls?

I've read through this thread and I am trying to understand knock. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

So there are 3 types of correction in the ECU. Rough (DAM/IAM), FBKC, and FLKC. Each can be active given the conditions. So does that mean DAM can drop below 1 even with no FBKC and FLKC?

 

Lastly, in the log below, I can see the DAM drop when the knock sum increases. That means during that point in time, DAM was the knock correction method? Thus when I see a knock sum increase, there is a drop in the DAM.

 

See log attached when I catch DAM dropping.

datalog8.csv

Finally got it out after 6 bruised fingers. Now to try to get the wire out...

I just spent 40 minutes trying to undo the clip. It's impossible to remove from what I can tell.