spec.B Dream

All gone. Closing thread.

Pictures of IC and Airpump

All sold now. Close it up.

 

I traded the spec.B for a Forester XT, and it is time to clean up the garage. All parts are from/for a 2008 Subaru Legacy spec.B 6mt. Prices plus shipping.

 

Sold:

-VF46 Turbo $300 – Removed at ~40k miles. Great shape, no noticeable shaft play.

-Stock airbox, snorkel, new filter $25 – Shipping might be pricey on this one.

-Gorilla lugs $10 – 24 lugs. Used for winter wheels and have rust/wear spots. Includes key.

-Top feed OEM TGV $50

-OEM pitch stop dog bone $10

-Stock injectors $25

-Stock intercooler $50 – Some fins could be straightened, otherwise good shape. Will include recirc valve

-Stock airpump and parts $25

-Stock shift knob $10

-Tactrix Openport 2.0 $75

-Subaru OEM wheel locks $15 – 4 locking lugs, key, and ID paperwork

-GoodRidge stainless clutch line $10 – New, never installed. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/clutch-lines/goo-24222-clu-sti-cl-goodridge-stainless-steel-coated-clutch-line.

-ID1000 injectors $50 – Set of 4 Injector Dynamics ID1000 fuel injectors. I ran these on e85 for 3 years before the B developed a misfire. Replacing with a new set of ID1000 cleared up the issue. These could probably use a good cleaning.

-Grimmspeed manual boost controller (MBC) $50

-OEM CV Boot Kit 28396AG021 $10

-SLM1 One-touch sunroof close $50 – New, never installed. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/1-touch-sunroof-close-and-more-193882.html

I drove an Outback Onyx XT, Outback Premium, Forester, and Crosstrek 2.5 last week. With the family, I'm looking a hatch and maybe getting more room than I have in my 08 spec.B. The 2.5 felt scary slow in the Outback and marginally acceptable in the Forester and Crosstrek. The XT had acceptable power, but it felt like the CVT was fighting me the whole time. I found the 2.5 more responsive in stop and go where the 2.4T would have a delay every time. Then, once going, the revs would jump all over the place and never be where I needed them to be when accelerating, cruising, or slowing down.

 

For you owners, does it get better over time? Does the trans need time to learn your driving habits? The XT I drove had just 4 miles, so it was brand new. These were the first CVTs I've driven outside of a Nissan rental a decade ago.

I installed Detroit Axle all around a couple years ago without issue (well, except for having to get a shop to press out the fronts as they were rust-welded together). They're cheap enough that I wouldn't mind ordering and doing the job again if they prematurely fail. Actually, planning to replace them every 5 years instead of every 10 might save me the hassle of having to press out the fronts from that buildup over time.

Well, my VBG1 seems to have bit the dust. It doesn't seem to be receiving sufficient power, no screen/lights but will beep every once in a while. Anyone have any luck repairing theirs?

My ebay alert hit showing $299 and free shipping but I was too slow. Which one of you snagged it?

I used this thread to replace my right rear yesterday. This was one of the few first time maintenance items where I never got to the point of questioning my abilities and giving up. Everything was straight forward thanks to this guide. Also, thank you Subaru for giving the spec.B the aluminum components. I'm sure that saved a ton of rust after 9 years and 120k miles.

I followed this writeup last night on the spec.B. I used a little over 1 qt of ATF to flush the system. As this was the first time the fluid has been changed in 120k miles, the difference in steering feel is incredible.

Thanks all. I just completed this fix over lunch in the parking lot of my local dealer. I got some dirty looks from a few sales guys wondering wtf I was doing, but no worries.

I built stairs with a landing when I rebuilt my deck last year. It took just as long to do the stairs as the rest of the deck. After several lessons learned and re-dos, they still aren't perfect. I never want to do that job again.

Of those who have already had yours fixed, were you notified that the parts were in stock and to contact your dealer, or did you ignore the notice to ride it out without a passenger until they send another letter?

 

I'm thinking about calling my local dealers, but living in the land of Subaru I'm sure there's a few thousand on the list ahead of me.

 

I called my dealer every few weeks. I did not allow a passenger to ride in the front seat. For our Valentine's dinner date, I chauffeured while my wife rode in the back. I was thinking about whether or not there was anyone I knew who needed to disappear.

 

The last time I called, they gave me the same generic response about how the part won't be in until April. They the guy put me on hold for 5 minutes, and when he came back informed me that they had one in stock and that my car would be the first one they did. I probably should have waited until they had done a few but I'm impatient.

What was damaged on the glovebox door? The pivot point on the right side of mine was damaged.

 

There were 3 deep scratches above and through the latch. It looked like a cat clawed it.

No adhesive smell on mine, but it is going back on Friday to get the instrument cluster lens and glove box door replaced. They ordered another loaner car. The glove box door should take all of 5 minutes. Do they have to rip apart the whole thing again to do the instrument cluster?

I had mine done on Monday. They ended up keeping the car over night and giving me a Crosstrek loaner. I got the car back and the glovebox and instrument cluster lens were scratched. They are ordering parts to replace those.

 

I let my wife drive the Crosstrek, and she said it was a very boring car. I hated the touchscreen radio, so slow!

Good point. I ordered new bolts with my kit from KS Tech. I figured it was cheap insurance in case I lost/stripped/broke something while doing the job. Good to know that the new bolts are required.

I just recently did my timing belt. The cam spun because I took off the sprocket to change the seals. No worries about it spinning, just need to get it all properly lined back up.

Good luck with the windows. I found out after I moved into my house last summer that most windows needed to be replaced. $17k I'm still crying, but at least I can open AND close my windows now.

Drop ceilings are a trade-off. They give you easier access to overhead plumbing and electrical is nice, and you can get accoustical ones for sound deadening, but drywall ceilings sure look nice.

Do you have both fuses in the add a fuse?

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Yea. That's been discussed in this thread. Just bug with a slightly annoying temporary effect. It usually happens on the cooler mornings of warmer days with the heat on. Makes me think it might be humidity related because it doesn't happen on cold dry winter days with the heat on.

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Dental pick is the way to go. Just a couple bucks from harbor freight or local parts store

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I was hoping for the 3 piece kit as I don't want to do anymore cutting (and I don't have a vice).

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Mike, I can't find the block off plates on your site. Can you post a link?

Why not unbolt the TGV to give room?