chrisay

Mate your motors aren't working. Can also get these on ebay or aliexpress

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Motor-Short-Long-Flat-D-Round-Collar-FC280PC22125-/111198111739?var=&hash=item19e3ec87fb:m:mETANqFNBgmy6A7-sXogfPg

 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33017943556.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.28d4105d3t2aej&algo_pvid=9a808c97-38fc-4779-bbe9-13325c58d32d&algo_expid=9a808c97-38fc-4779-bbe9-13325c58d32d-21&btsid=0ab6fb8815865060595327411e7f21&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

 

These are posted to assist do your own checking to be 100% sure they are correct before purchasing.

Post some photos of what you are looking at legacyabuser.

Hello everyone!

 

Can somebody who already has an experience dealing with there motors please tell if this can be used to just replace the original motor without opening it up? The shaft is 20 mm long (as I understand, that's a right length for our cars), but what about its shape, does it look the same?

 

Yes this will fit, you will just need to file the shaft to give a 'D' shape to it.

great to see this thread still going, probably going to get more hits as these units fail. Remember to take a look at Tek's post at http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=10479 for even more info on the replacement of the actuator motor.

 

Chris

I read the write ups but still can't figure out how to get the driver's door lock actuator out. Do I also need to remove the 3 screws securing the latch (pic #1)? If so, then how do I get around detaching it from the door handle connection (pic #2)? I know I'm probably overlooking something easy. Thanks in advanced. FJ60

 

Hi, yes remove the screws. The connector will 'pop' out from memory or require slight manipulation.

That is great to hear of your success Jay, original parts here in NZ are crazy prices

Great to hear Tighttrash, looks like your actuator unit has allowed moisture in, unfortunately this also happened to one of my repaired ones, as Amirz said make sure they are well sealed when closing them up. Hope you get many more years trouble free out of the new motors.

Good tip PPSGT, yes I missed to say to undo the window runner. That is an awesome idea to screw it back together, I still have two to do and will certainly try that next time.

 

Cheers

Chris

Great to hear that you got it done successfully, just sad that this is just a low quality component that Subaru has used.

To the people who have bought the eBay replacement motors.... Can you just replace the entire motor without replacing the internals? I am asking because I cannot get the motor apart to clean and/or replace. Are there any risks just replacing the whole motor or is it just not physically possible because of size?

 

Thanks!

 

Short answer is no, as yet I have not heard of, or come across the long shafted motor which is used in this actuator.

 

What is the problem you are having it opening the motor? If you have got the actuator out of the door and opened, you have done the hardest part.

 

Take a good look at the photos I had post previously, there is also a link posted by Tek to another site showing the process also http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10479

Oh wow, you don't happen to have a boat do you...?

However yes you should be able to repair the motor, lightly sand off the corrosion from the armature, and then clean it up as I did, with the new parts from the ebay, it should work. Remember do not put grease in or on the actual motor, grease contact with the commutator quickly causes the graphite bushes to stop conducting.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4806

 

 

Just found this thread and have to give a big thanks to Chrisay for the write up. I was having the same problem with the rear door in my '08 outback, and decided to dismantle today.

 

Apparently I had the opposite problem to everyone else; not a drop of grease to be found in the assembly. Motor was completely seized. I don't think the ebay replacement will save me here

Having the door lock issue for a 2005 Legacy Wagon, with the front passenger and rear driver, but they just up and stopped working. Is it possible to take the panel off without opening the door? It has become impossible to get either door open. It's kind of irritating to have to play Dukes Of Hazard all the time. There isn't a Dealer on the island, so there isn't even that to turn to.

 

I've tried fiddling with the lock and lever (inside & out) to get the door open, and also pressing the unlock many times on both the remote and the doors.

The Passenger side sounds like it's trying to catch the cable but that something has slipped out.

 

I'm not sure what Island you are on? But would say that any automobile association (or crim) should have the tools and knowhow to unlock, your locked doors. I seriously doubt you would be able to get the panel off far enough to gain access without opening the door. I can almost guarantee you that the sound you hear is not the cable slipping out, but the motor just failing to fully activate the actuator.

Amirz, feel free to use the photos I posted.

I too used the new motor housings.

 

All the best

 

Chris

OK, I had a bit of time so decided it was time to re-repair my original problem lock, as well as one that has been intermittently being an problem.

I bought some new motors on ebay, however as reported seaslug, these have short shafts. Never fear, using the armature of the original one fixes this problem. The problem with these motors is that grease or oil was placed on the bushes/commutator. this is a no no on any electric motor, as it ruins the brushes.

I know this "how to" has been reported by teK, however I thought I would post some pictures here also.

 

Remove the door trim

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4253

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4254

 

Remove the lock assembly, loosen of the cover and unscrew the actuator from the lock assembly

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4255

 

Open actuator, I found starting as shown in the photo the easiest.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4256

 

Bother, subaru shaft much longer

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4257

 

Armatures removed from bodies.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4258

 

Clean the original one real good, concentrating on the commutator. I used Jif(Vim, or Cif depending on where you live) to really clean the commutator, using a tooth pick to remove the grease between the segments. Rinse and allow to dry completely (very important)

remove the old dirty plastic washers and replace with the ones from the new armature.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4259

 

Put the motor, and actuator back together, sealing it up how you feel best. I used a solder iron to melt the plastic together all the way around.

Reinstall and hey presto you are back in business.

NB: take care putting the motor back together. the brushes must be sitting on the commutator.

This Ebay seller does http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MABUCHI-DOOR-LOCK-MOTORS-DIY-REPAIR_W0QQitemZ150460356405QQihZ005QQcategoryZ33696QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Chris

Having a look around on ebay, there is a load of these little DC motors for sale. Subbies aren't the only ones with actuator problems. I have already ordered a few for when I get time to crack open the door(s) again. My only concern is, it is the Mabuchi motor that was the problem the first time round, hmmm the company CEO must be laughing.

 

BTW; the joys of living at the bottom of the world, I found a business selling the motors in NZ, his best price including shipping(inside of NZ) is twice the price I am paying to get them from the states, inclusive of shipping!!

Hi Tek,

When I initially did it I wasn't as aware of the problem that grease on the graphite brushes has, as I do now, and probably didn't clean that area as well as I should have. I used a solder iron to seal the unit back up, but should be able to get back into it.

 

I am surprised there is not more comments about this issue. Perhaps they are yet to come.

 

Chris

Thats a very good write up, good on you for giving it a go. I do need to have another go at my one and do it properly this time.

I doubt if subaru will call a recall just like what Toyota did. I also had the same problems, the thing was I already bought a door lock actuator before consulting the internet. My mechanic said to buy it and he will be the one who's going to install it. anyways i do hope that mine is not a motor thing since I'll just be getting my car from my mechanic tomorrow. Anyways, got the door lock actuator online, I hope you can send me insights about that site.

 

Hi I hope that you get it sorted, however I didn't see an actuator on that site for a BP/Bl model???

must be a common problem..suprised no recall yet, since recalls are becoming common...my left rear door only locks once and a blue moon

 

I doubt they would do a recall, it is just disappointing that these units are failing after just a few years. I had, had a 89 camry up until two years ago, and everything still worked on that.

I'm afraid i have the same problem, it appear that the motor is too week to pull the cable. I took off the door cover and checked the cables and also noticed grease on the actuator unit. The unit seemed to be sealed tight, did you clean it from the outside or were you able to open it ?

Yeah I cracked it open, it's the only way to get to the motor bush contacts. There needs to be grease pretty much on all moving parts just not on or close to the graphite bushes.

HI I had been told to check the cables too. There was nothing wrong with the cables at all. The problem (in my case) lays with the small electric motor in the actuator. I took one apart (remember this is not a serviceable component) and cleaned the built up of grease and graphite from the commutator and brushes. So the first issue is how/why the heck is there grease on this part of the motor? No grease or oil should ever be near the graphite brushes. Once this was done and reinstalled, it worked fine. I am really surprised we are the only two owners of this model to have problems.

Hi All, I am wondering if I am the only Legacy owner to have issued with door lock actuators. Problems started with the Front Passenger lock not opening or closing at times, then stopped altogether, I took the actuator out and cleaned the motor brushes on the commutator, and all was good for about 16 months, now it has started doing it again and so has the right rear passengers door. I would normally just get a new linear actuator but the 04 BP model has weird rotary ones that pull a cable.

Any ideas? Anyone know of replacement ones for sale (don't say Subaru, will be cheaper to buy another car). So just let me know I'm not the only one with these problems...