Scooter

P/N for the screw that holds the fuel injector in place..? I stripped the torx head on one, not realizing my bit didn't fit right. For some reason I can't find the injectors in the manual diagrams anywhere.

 

Bump...?

P/N for the screw that holds the fuel injector in place..? I stripped the torx head on one, not realizing my bit didn't fit right. For some reason I can't find the injectors in the manual diagrams anywhere.

http://i29.tinypic.com/2nar18l.jpg

 

Holy crap! I don't think I'd let a snake that size get close to my kid that size! The nom nom nom could easily be going the other way, like for real!

x2 snub nose/snort bumper = euro bmw/merc/audi. Rears with chrome later? :vomit:

 

I *almost* pulled the trigger on this look earlier this year. I rear-ended another car, not too bad, but ended up needing a new bumper, hood, grille, and two new headlights. So I thought about updating to the '08-'09 look. But I would have had to buy both new fenders and the new foglights out-of-pocket, and I couldn't justify that cash outlay, on top of my damn deductible.

Personally I prefer the front end of the 05-07 v.s. the 08+, though I think the stock tail lights on the 08-09' look much better than the 05-07's.

 

Interesting! I'm the complete opposite: I think the '08-'09 front end looks higher class, but I greatly prefer the '05-'07 taillights. Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.

 

Pretty sure the '07's have the top feed injectors; those came with the airpump, VF46, and other engine changes.

Any of you interested in Pelican Cases to protect your camera gear? I work for them (Torrance) and would be willing to buy stuff at my cost for you local guys. My contribution to the Forum. PM me if interested, and I can tell you approximately what my cost would be for a given case. Still won't be cheap, but will be a whole lot less than your local camera shop!

 

http://www.pelican.com/

Well, there is a range of VIN #'s that are affected. I'd say take your car to a dealer (maybe a different one, if the one you talked to before doesn't seem helpful), and have them pull up & print out TSB 09-43-06R for you. Then compare your VIN to the ones listed on the TSB. If yours falls into that range, then they have no choice but to fix it for you.

 

EDIT: Actually, I guess this is a Recall Campaign now, so ask to see WVB-12.

 

Ling to TSB: http://www.scoobymods.com/tsb-09-43-06r-t7230.html

For the gentlemen on Kodiak Island, you can just order the new relay and replace it yourself very easily. Chances are your ECU is fine to drive for now, but then later when you get a chance to take the car to a dealer you can have the ECU replaced per the TSB. If you keep your receipt for the Relay then the dealership should even reimburse that cost for you.

 

From the beginning of this thread:

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40207 see that thread for the original TSB and the part number of th relay if your fans have not already started running all of the time. It is a quick 5 minute fix with a $10 part for those of you who don't want to go to the dealer. Of course I recommend taking your car to the dealer to have them fill it up with gas whenever you need it , but some people feel differently.

 

The part number for the relay is 82501AG120 and the old thread has pictures to show you want to do, if you so choose.

 

Either way if your car falls within the applicable VIN ranges get it fixed; once the fans start to say on all of the time it is too late and your ECU needs to be replaced.

 

Might have to search this thread some more to confirm that 82501AG120 is the correct, current part number for the new relay; I tried a couple of online vendors and couldn't find it using that P/N, so maybe it has changed again..?

If you've got an impact wrench, there's a good chance you can spare your screwdrivers: just blast away and the nut will probably uncrimp itself. Never realized this until recently, when I watched my favorite Subie mechanic do this so he could pull the rear axles and remove my rear diff. I was somewhat shocked at how ridiculously easy that was, as I have struggled mightily with this nut in the past.

 

Also, for those looking for cheap replacement axles, I got mine from MacAuto for $67 shipped:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/halfshaft-work-05-lgti-130785p2.html

 

They may be out of stock still, as I didn't see them on their website last time I looked. But you could call or email them to find out.

or just by a sheet of gasket paper for a couple bucks and make your own scott. it wouldnt be the rubber one designed for it but it would seal it up.

 

Nah, I decided to go JDM, yo! I'm talking with Rallitek & AVO about getting some super-special JDM O-Rings shipped over here. Or I might try to source directly and buy a couple thousand of them and start my own Group Buy!

Wow, your Searching skills own me! Thanks - I found the P/N of the O-ring I need in that 3rd link.

 

22656AA020 Subaru Bypass Valve Gasket

 

It's $3.18 at Fred Beans. Unfortunately, shipping comes up at $14.25, so I need to find one elsewhere.

 

FWIW, I'm going to claim that my car never had one of these. I really don't believe that I could have 'lost' it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

There should be a gasket seated in the "o"-shaped recess at the base of the factory BPV, IIRC.....

 

Pulled the BPV this morning and it is definitely leaking a bit, and there is definitely NOT a gasket or O-ring there. There's a channel molded into the base of the BPV that looks like it could maybe hold an O-ring, but there's nothing there.

 

Can anyone else confirm if there is supposed to be an o-ring or gasket on the stock BPV where it mates to the IC?

Installed a Perrin TMIC (bought used) today, and the fit wasn't too bad. The IC sits at a slight angle, left to right, but everything bolted up fine.

 

Question: should I have a gasket between the IC and the stock BPV? After I took a drive to make sure everything was good, I noticed a tiny bit of oil on the IC at this joint, and was thinking I may have a very slight leak there. I didn't want to torque those two bolts down too hard because they go into aluminum, of course. If I see oil again tomorrow, I might just try loosening and re-tightening to square it up, but I was thinking I might need a gasket, as well. Thought?

^^ Sorry, that wasn't clear: I loaded a different base map than what I was running before.

Not possible..... By using only a BM, you are effectively running the same map for RT.

 

Yeah, I kinda figured that out just now. I unhooked the battery to clear the realtime and then loaded just the Cobb base map. Then when I went to "Show Current Map" it showed the base map as the current map for both base and realtime, even though I didn't load a realtime map. Just wasn't totally sure it was OK to run an identical realtime map over top the base map. Thanks for the replies!

AFAIK, the Cobb base maps are designed to be run without a realtime map: i.e., ALL the tuning parameters are contained in the base map. The only realtime maps they offer are the Valet, Anti-Theft, and Economy Mode maps so if you aren't running one of those three you shouldn't have any realtime map loaded... at least that's my understanding. I could be wrong, but why would you have to load the exact same map as both the base and the realtime?

 

Here's the list of available maps: they don't have different base and realtime maps for each stage, just one:

http://www.accessecu.com/accessport/subaru/new/05LGTMaps.html

But what if I don't want to run ANY realtime map? Just the Cobb base map.

As long as I'm here, one thing I've never understood with my V2 is how are you supposed to remove a realtime map after you have loaded it? Say for instance that I'm running the Cobb Stage 2 base map with no realtime map. Then I flash the fuel economy map before a roadtrip, and then when I get home I want to go back to just the base map with no realtime map at all. There isn't any "Remove Realtime Map" option on the AP - the only thing you can do is flash to a different realtime map. So how do you simply delete the realtime map altogether?

 

I know disconnecting the power will do that, but shouldn't be necessary... you wouldn't want to have to do that if you briefly used the valet mode, for instance. So what are you supposed to do? Do you just flash the same base map you are using as the realtime map; will that accomplish the same thing?

 

 

 

(I apologize if this has been asked here before; I didn't check all 20 pages.)

No mystery: the V2's were advertised from the start to work on ANY Subaru 2.5L engine, provided you loaded the right maps. The only different version is the one for the 2.0L motors.

 

As suggested, the V1 would need to be sent back to Cobb and reprogrammed before you could use it on a different year/tranny/car. NOT FREE. You'll want to try finding any V2 or a V1 that matches your specific car.

I'm pretty sure Rob took the exact same vacation in 2006 that he did in 2005, so I'm not entirely sure why you'd want to see new pictures of the same beaches and bikinis, given the high quality of the 2005 shots..? What poses would you expect to be different?

NB I75 this morning passing 14 Mile Road in Troy.

 

You: ABP LGT Sedan w/ wing. Me: BSM LGT Sedan w/ tint.

Yeah, you looked confused - sorry about that! Car looked NICE!!

Three LGT sedan's seen yesterday (9/17) on US50 between Placerville and Sacramento, between 1 and 2pm-ish.

 

1) ABP w/ wing and tint, east-bound nearing Placerville

 

2) OBP - looked stock, west-bound somewhere in the middle

 

3) SWP heavily modded, gold wheels, west-bound approaching Sac.

 

I was in my Mustang convertible rental car, out there on vacation! I had flown into SF then driven up to Reno to visit a friend, then took the scenic route back past Tahoe, down the 50, and then on 160 on top of the levee. GREAT FUN all around!

...and I killed the thread.

 

I thought those two quotes where good?

 

Oh well.

 

I've appreciated ALL of your offerings here, actually!! (And really NOT wanting to go OT, but that's coming from a California liberal... but definitely not a pacifist.)

 

 

Changing the subject now, how 'bout:

 

"No woman, no cry." - Bob Marley

 

"Golf is like playing 'fetch' without the dog." - Anon

 

"When you get to the end of the road and look back on your life, it's not the mistakes you made that you regret, but rather the chances you never took." - Anon?

 

And my all-time favorite hero:

 

"I couldn't just stand there and do nothing to help." - Lenny Skutnik

It was even more confusing than that, as I went with the custom fit 12-gage copper wire method. I can imagine them going, "WTF???" Funniest part was that the dealer was thoughtful enough to actually provided me a written estimate for the replacement parts I'd need to 'fix' it:

 

QTY 2 - Gasket R/M(?) - 44011AE01A - $5.84ea

QTY 4 - Bolt - 901660014 - $2.84ea

QTY 4 - Nut - 902350001 - $4.05ea

 

Grand total in parts: $41.59. No labor was quoted. I'm just amused because in the time it took them to type up this quote that I didn't want, they could have actually torqued the suspension bolts like I'd asked them to. Oh well.

 

Anyway - there's the gasket part number if anyone wants to replace theirs or go with the Hogzaust Premier edition, by snipping away some of the OEM gasket. I checked Subaruparts.com, and they've got them listed at $2.22ea + $1.99 shipping.