rkl303

Another recommendation for terry tanner and his pdr services. I got a quote from some other pdr shop that wanted $400 for what only took him 1 hour and costed me a $100.

 

His number is 303 378 4944. I will say he is not the friendliest guy on the phone but he's way better in person.

Dang sorry to hear you had such a bad experience.

Just make sure you put on the brake dust shield back on correctly...ask me how I know.

Epic springs here. I thought the rears were a PITA to get to compress because I chose the wrong number of coils to compress but feel is completely different from the slopyness of the stock setup. I can't say if its more the springs making the difference or the struts but definately way more comfortable than my friends bug eyes on stock struts w/ I think pinks for long trips.

id just but a d2s kit

Just finished the install. Took 1 and a 1/2 days because it was my first time using a springs compressor and the oversized claws on the compressor and with the way the koni rear coils coil very tightly at the top made it a huge PITA to install.

 

Also had to reassemble twice on all 4 struts because I stupidly decided to try and go with the OEM top hat nuts instead of the 19mm Koni nuts and they just kept spinning when I lowered the car.

 

Overall impressions is the car is very forgiving over poor quality highway roads and gave very little body roll while going in a circle for the on ramp. Definately love it and wish I had done springs much sooner when I took that circle. Sort of wish I had switched to my summer tires to try it out.

Just a heads up my buddy (ex mechanic) was watching me and he suggested that you should hammer in a small notch where the axle nut sits in the axle just in case $hit happens and it wants to try and slide out.

its there in mine but very lower back.

I agree with Mini STI Guy. THe part that determined what side was higher is the cut off sheild. The shield also was what held the bowl in place and I'm sure I accidently swapped them numerous times.

So would this work at altitude? I have prosport gauges that don't give me a good reference of what my boost level is.

MiniStiGuy you could probably edit the first post to also mention to the DIYers that hey could try adding/reducing washers prior to putting the headlight back togeather. This would save us from going back and taking the system apart because we put in too many or too few washers. I just hooked up my HID system w/o headlight assembly and just put the bulb in the projectors and ran the system. Found out 2 brass washers was a bit too much and 0 wasn't right prior to putting it altogeather.

for the ones hiding in the wheel well b/n the bumper cover and the fender? Guess I should have also pulled off the wheels but I got lazy.

10 because of the 2 ^(&%ing popits that hold the bumper cover to the car are a PITA to remove but really I would say its a 3-2.

 

Or if you are talking about grinding the shields I would say its a 1.5 if youhave a bench grinder as all you do is take the bowl and trace an outline of the shield w/ a sharpie(the .5 is because you gotta be careful not to break the tab

Not much more than grind away at the sides of the shields until it fit and break a tab and jbwelt the tab (similar to the LGT Tab pictured on the back of the LGT sheilds back ) back on. I think net result is a slightly different beam pattern thats about it.

 

I was thinking/wondering of what sanding/polishing the interior of the shields would net as the shield does seem dark enough where it might absorb a lot of light but I didn't want to risk having a bad result to do an experiment when I don't have a replacement.

So these are modified RX330 shields? Look like stock H7 LGT shields...

 

Sorry edited it was the stock H7 LGT sheilds

These are pictures of the sheild from the inside view (too lazy to pull it apart for you but you can see how the lower 1/2 is designed.

 

Sorry those are pictures of the regular LGT sheilds. I might take pictures of the inside of the RX330's projectors guts but that takes a lot of work to get at it.

Pictures as promised.

 

As you can see in the first picture its more curved on the lower 1/2. This is a really short distance from the car about 3-4ft.

 

Middle picture is from inside the car w/ the Camera at the height of the rear view mirror. Probably 10ft

 

3rd picture a little more further away w/ more pronounced lower 1/2 at the same 10ft.

 

The setup was using the RX330 sheilds(grinded), the Rx330 Projectors, the legacy projectors, and 1 brass #6 washer on each of the projectors screws

 

The bump in the middle is due to me accidently breaking the flap in the lower set of pictures and having to reattach them w/ JB weld.

 

HID System was DDM D2S.

 

The Hotspots are not that noticeable when actually driving in the car and I can definately see the cutoff on the cars I am following on the highway. Thanks for the writeup MiniSTI Guy.

Heres a poor picture of what the difference in sheilds designs look like.

Yeah I don't have any pictures of what the OEM RX330 sheilds looks like but I'll post pictures of my finished results tonight.

Depends on your luck. My first time around they came right out....second time not so easy but I did forget how to get it out.

Has anyone tried this with the RX330 NonAFS shields?

 

I was fortunate to buy some spare headlights and bought the nonAFS RX330 projectors so I can take my time but I noticed that the RX330 Sheild cut out for light output is a different from the legacy's. The RX330's looks like someone grinded the lower side sections of the sheild but not the middle section.

 

I'll post pictures when I can find my dang camera.

 

yes if you are going to do a retro you will be filling the shield hole to prevent against glare.

 

As I said before you'll see why not to use the Rx330 shield. The main reason is it will not fit without a lot of cutting and grinding.

 

the dimples just don't allow a clear transfer of light because the prizmatic geometry of each dimple takes away from the ability for light to pass through without some sort of coruption and change in the pattern of light. A fully clear lens like a TSX lens for example would allow a better passage for light to travel through with little to no distortion or disruption of the light.

Man I'd be scared to take apart my dash like that. Very good work though.

+1 for stage .5

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where is the stupid bowdown smiley