trackhore

Bumpage.

 

Having a similar problem however I'm not getting any codes. Car surges/bucks when the AVCS actuation point is met, 2500rpm. Local guru thinks the dowel pin hole has "ovaled out" which makes the cam gear stick momentarily. Hard part is no code,.

Saw a silver lgt last night around 5:45 on 294 with a front lip and rear lip spoiler,looked lowered,had wheels and sti brembos. Looked like it had an exhaust too. And had one of those blackhawks license plates. I was in a OBP lgt with a rrev lip,cleared headlights,tints and bronze grids.

Yep, and you threw a rock right into my new windshield, moot point, because the large boulder thrown by a semi the day before that hit the roof will be sending the car back to the body shop for bodywork, paint, and a new windshield. Not thrilled really, car was just completely repainted after hail damage in may.

Where do you have your wb located? Mine is located about 3 inches downstream from the turbo, where the CNT pipes put them... I don't knwo if that has anything to do with it.

Definitely not optimal, but shouldn't be the reason for the fluctuations.

Saw a Black LGT with STI techna logo on side. Rear debaged. on rt83 just before Irving park rd exit heading south.

Was he hypermiling?

If applicable will the 06 oem clutch take 295 wheel horsepower (330 flywheel hp)?

 

thanks

Depends how you drive it.

Good thing my white LGT was there to keep everything balanced

racist

Are you driving a school bus?

:lol:

New TOB was installed. No snout damage on the trans. 50* this morning when I left the house, car "almost" drove like stock. After my 20 minute drive, there was a little more shudder in 1st, but better than days past when it was warmer out.

What happens when you try to engage 1st gear from a dead stop without using any throttle, feathering the clutch out very slowly?

Normally temperature related issues can mean air in the hydraulic lines, but the air wouldn't have magically appeared with the installation of the new clutch. But, I have been meaning to bleed the master cylinder since it's not that difficult a task.

Well, my car said it was 81 when I left work today. The clutch felt a little stickier/grabbier, but still was still easy enough to engage smoothly. No abnormal sounds/vibrations/shuddering.

 

I also cleaned my flywheel when I installed everything. irregardless, I don't think the oils would still be there after 50 miles.

 

Was your tob making noise? did you have the mechanic inspect the snout? maybe your snout was damaged and the new tob isn't sliding well on it. I would assume that things were installed properly, and that would be the only thing I could think of that would cause engagement problems.

 

That or maybe their is air in your clutch line. bleeding your clutch is simple enough. Doing that won't hurt anything but I don't think it will resolve your problem.

When I had my lwfw in the car it definitely chattered, but I never heard anything that sounded like pots and pans banging around.

 

Have you taken it back to the shop and complained about it? They should be liable for their workmanship

+ 1. Was your FW new or used? Did they clean the FW before they installed it? Did my own install and I cleaned my FW with brake cleaner before I installed it to make sure FW surface was free of any oils.

My flywheel was new, WRX single mass. I would ASSume that even if the tech had not wiped down the new flywheel, the surface contaminants would have burned off by now seeing as how the clutch must be slipped between 1,500-2,000 RPM in 1st gear.

A reputable Subaru shop did the install. I've noticed a direct correlation with ambient temperature and driveability. Low 70's and above, the clutch shudders and chatters like it was a 6-puck designed to hold 1000lb/ft of torque when starting from a dead stop. Cooler temps, high 50's and below, it's a little more tame, almost acceptable.

Once the car is moving, there are no driveability issues while shifting or extraneous noises of any kind. Aside from 1st and reverse, my only other complaint is the clutch grabs quickly and makes smooth engagement in traffic a little trickier. This will be easily overcome once I've gotten used to driving it more. I'm currently at 450miles of stop and go city driving with next to no highway cruising miles. I've seen no change in behavior as the break-in has progressed.

It's been 50's and 60's here as of late in Iowa.

 

I'm no clutch expert by any means, but it sounds like something might not be properly torqued down. Or maybe the clutch disk was put in backwards. Did you or a shop do the work?

I've only had my fx300 in for ~60 miles but the only sounds I hear from it are a very very faint decel chatter in the 3k to 2k rpm range. Faint enough that all windows need to be closed and the radio needs to be off to hear it, otherwise the chatter is drowned out. Engagement seems very smooth. I can drive this setup (fx300 oem smfw) smoother than the stock dmfw setup and the lwfw setup I had in my car briefly.

WTF, it's like I have a completely different clutch installed. What have the ambient temps been like where you live? It was hi 50's here this morning and the clutch was much more forgiving in 1st and reverse, but definitely not what I would call smoother than OEM.

Do you think it's something to do with cold weather? I'm not having any problem like that out in So Cal. I only get a slight shutter only when I back out my driveway in the morning. The rest of the day it's fine and I have driven it in LA stop and go traffic.

Drives slightly better when cold here, which would mean Cali would be an even worse environment for my car. I called clutch masters and they assured me all was normal and that the lighter single mass flywheel would unmask driveline shock and some shudder. Lol, 4 lbs lighter, but still oem weight, I had to bite my tongue not to laugh at him. If I try to engage 1st gear with no throttle and very gradual clutch pedal movement, like I do from time to time in extreme stop and go traffic, the car bucks and bangs, and it sounds like my exhaust is going to fall off. The clutch drives like a puck design, nothing disk about it.

Why not try the '06+ WRX FW and the clutchmaster FX300. I have it in my DD and the engagement is smooth and the pedal is as light as stock.

Installing the same combo on my DD as soon as I get it back from the audio shop.

Could be - It was dirty enough that I couldn't really even see the foglights or the rear valance. It wasn't blue though, it was the charcoal color.

That was a camry.

It's weird I haven't seen any LGT's yet. Usually when I buy a car I start seeing them at least once a day. I know I have seen a few XT OB's but that is it.

They're too fast to be seen by mortal vision. Wait for the LGT powers to be absorbed into your body. Your vision will adjust and they will become visible.

how far is your commute? 2500 miles

well played sir

as halogens they dont put out a whole lot of light on the road to begin with

As fog lights, they aren't really designed to. Their intended purpose is project yellow colored light to the low and immediate road in front of the car in an effort to reduce the amount of light reflected back by the moisture in the air; which is what happens to driving, low, and high beams.