optyks

So in your opinion, the drawbacks of forged don't outweigh the pros to doing them on a DD?

I'm about to be installing an HTA68 and supporting fuel, so I am going stage 3. It is my DD so i'm going to be tuning conservatively. Would forged be in my interests then?

I also have a question (not to take attention away from doobaru above though).

If we choose to go with an OEM piston when rebuilding, or something similar that isn't forged, would it be advantageous to throw in forged rods on top, or would that create uneven pressure/wear?

Someone in my state had neighbors complain because his license plate read 'MERLOT'. Yes. Like the wine. And it got to the courts, and the judge made him remove it. What. The. ****. It really bothers you that someone has a type of wine on their LP?

 

Shows you what kind of people live in my state...

95,xxx miles. Nothing really notable to ... note.

Have an exedy clutch, catless UP, catted invidia DP, other mods... Have changed rotors and pads once.. Should probably do that again.

 

Have yet to see the check engine light come on.. knock on wood. Maybe the bulb is burnt out and I don't know it.

If that were true the Corrola wouldn't be the best selling nameplate in the world...

 

Pff, Corolla S, bro

and not like US lunatics where we (LGT, NASIOC, etc.) all want 4859 p.s.i of boost pressure and 65289741 w.h.p...LOL

 

Doesn't... doesn't the whole world want a fast car?

Such as?

They should have just made the intercooler out of straight metal. What is this plastic bullshit?

Here's what mine looked like last night straight off my car.

Haha yeah I hear you. My IC is starting to really bust/leak at one corner, so at this point it's not really likely to hold up even with your mod, so I figured meh, I might as well JB it to see what happens.

What's the advantage to this kit over, say, JB Welding the entire perimeter of the intercooler? Not knocking or anything, just curious since JB Weld is strong stuff and will seal gaps at the same time.

Right on. Once I get closer to my stage 2 build I'll order it if they're still being produced

Bit late here, but curious as to the effectiveness of these. Has anyone reviewed this yet?

What kind of pressure can you reliably run through this? I like the idea of not having to spend another $700 for a decent TMIC to increase boost levels and get the most of a catless UP and hi flow DP

So does this video imply that I can call bullshit on shops when they quote multiple hour labor rates?

I'm looking to replace the OEM clutch here in the next couple months. I've never really needed to choose a clutch before, so here are my thoughts and questions should someone feel free to help me

 

 

Currently, I'm just tuned to stage one, although I'll probably have a decatted uppipe installed with the clutch, and intend on doing more power mods in the future. Because of this, I figured (and i don't know if this is true or not, please give me insight) i should go with a ceramic clutch, since it handles launching and power better.

If that's not true, what would be the best "all purpose" type clutch for mild to moderate loads on a 60 mile round trip to work daily basis? I probably do about 75-90% highway driving, 10-25% stop and go city driving.

 

Do organic disks ever stand up reliably over time for that kind of use and abuse? Kevlar?

Thanks!

Anyone have tips for getting extremely rusted bolts/flanges apart?

Tried liberally spraying with PB Blaster and cranking with a wrench to no avail...

donks=epic fail.

 

I see this crap all the time. How can someone honestly think that looks good?

 

Then again.. the urban dress code also tends to be wearing their pants around their knees.. so I guess there are just some things that are beyond rational comprehension.

 

So, so true. its sad. and gross.

 

When I see a 14 year old kid wearing pants and a shirt that were made for an elephant, somethings wrong...

 

nice... rides...