stajerker

I also had this issue, about two years ago - I also had rubber bits in my plastic sending tank. Mine was leaking quite badly - enough that when full I couldn't park in my garage because the fumes would stink up my whole house (I had neighbours complain as well). FWIW my dealer told me that they are seeing this VERY commonly in cars of our vintage - maybe the heat cycles in Ottawa (-30 to +40 Celsius) cause ours to crack a bit earlier. It took my dealer 3 days to get the part in stock from subaru canada (snowstorm delay though).

I do need one of those. I don't know if it would fit in the wheel well though? And $350 is a lot of money right now not guaranteeing that it'll work. I left the pb blaster on overnight. And I did hit the breaker bar and nothing.

I just gave up at this - hub bolts are so rusted on I cannot remove them with an 18" breaker bar (which I can use to break off the axle nut) using a floor jack to try to rotate the bar. I let PB sit overnight and nothing. I'm taking it to a local mechanic here - all in, its still going to be cheaper than just the part would be at the dealer - $350 for the OEM wheelbearing here, and $120 off rockauto + 200 for the labour at the local garage. I should've just let them do it from the beginning. If you live in canada/a salt using state and dont have any air driven impact tools, just pay for someone else to do this for you. (car has 100k miles on it). Fronts look original. :mad:

Hey man, I did this job just two weekends ago and I am a very novice car wrencher dude. I had the same issue with the drivers side but I managed to succeed by doing them one at a time and taking it very slow. Use the fuel lines in the centre as a kinda fulcum and rock the manifold up on the front and rear. (so the rear will be down pressed against the tgv when you're doing the front and vice versa) What I did for the drivers side: pulled up on the mainfold so I could get an allen key (the biggest one I have - just a smidge taller than the new gasket) in where one of the bolts (TGV -> intake) sit at the very front (dont put this between the TGV-intake, only at the bolt hole). I then had just enough room to pick out the gasket and I could put the new gasket on the tgv and use the manifold to seal it in. I used the allen key as a lever to push up on the manifold when I needed more room. Do the same thing for the rear. Its very tight, and I didn't think i'd have enough room because of the fuel lines, but rocking it up allows you to have enough room. You can pull pretty hard against those lines as well. There is enough room. IT CAN BE DONE

just did this over the weekend, couple things to note: I have never ever taken the engine cover off. Prior to this I've only done oil changes and front end links on my car so I must have taken a bit more noob time. (I also took my fuel pump out but thats just unscrewing shit) It took me all in all ~4 hours. If i had to do it again i think I'd be <3 hours. Have some coolant on hand or make sure you catch all of it coming out of the turbo coolant resevoir. MAKE SURE YOU GET A DENTAL PICK (I got an 'o ring pick' at canadian tire) i would NOT have been able to do it without that. I did not have to move the fuel lines - I wedged an allen key in between the intake and TGV where the bolts screw in (dont do this on the gasket mating surface) and was able to lever up the manifold enough to get all the gaskets out. but i did have to take off that air mattress pump thing that KSAL posted a couple posts up. Made angling the pick to get the drivers side rear gasket out much easier. I used the method of putting the gaskets on the TGV valve and carefully pushing the intake manifold down onto them to push them into place - worked perfect. this thread really helped me thanks! seems like it solved my idle issues! Now if only I hadn't snapped off my stupid plastic nipple on my BPV (i jb welded it back into place - I think its fine)