apexi
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Posts posted by apexi
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7 hours ago, Scottydunno said:
Come to find out, my rear backing plates are returning to earth via natural selection.. joy! Are these available at all???
Yes, but they're stupid expensive for what they are ($120 each msrp, $100 each shipped on ebay, a little cheaper at some online dealers )
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I looked into this a bit earlier, but was reluctant to reply without solid info. From what I saw, the sunroof drain should be one of the two locations I circled in red. The first silver pic is a 2005-2009 wagon, and the second pic is from a 2003 outback. It looks like the sunroof drains are very likely in the same location on both gens, and I don't think you should have to remove the rear bumper to get to them. Might be able to remove a few clips from the fender liner and reach around, or remove the plastic shield below and go up
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I remember when this happened to me, the dealer just replaced the whole assembly, which is what I'd expect a dealer to do.
Looking around online, it does look like you can get the fuel pump housing in pieces. Going off memory from a thread I remember seeing, I think part code 42052DD is what typically cracks? Looks like you can just replace that if so, MSRP $106, PN 42052AG87A
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I haven't heard of this in my time here. How much coolant are you consuming?
Heater core leak inside dash? Blue smoke is oil, is there excessive white smoke? In your shoes I'd buy my own cooling system pressure tester, where you can pump air into the cooling system and look for leaks everywhere, especially @ radiator too.
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3.2ft lbs, 38.4 inch-lbs
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I don't recall hearing a complaint like that here over the years, it's hard to say where it could be coming from.
External oil head gasket leak is very common, more of an annoyance than anything else.
Power steering pump leak, wonder if it's just the o-ring on top of the pump. Subaru part number 34439FG000, very easy to change. Not a bad idea to have a quart of subaru atf hp on hand since you'll probably lose some fluid changing it, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the old fluid anyway with the extra. Probably not the cause of the white smoke in my opinion, but not sure.
I wonder if your passenger side cv boot split, and has flung grease all over the cat converter below it. That's not very close to the timing belt though, that's kinda behind the engine on the passenger side.
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(Begin unhelpful reply/not what you asked)
At 100k on what you think is the OE clutch, I'd replace the clutch and inspect the clutch fork first first before spending $400 on new OE master and slave cylinders. Unreal that an oem slave cylinder now goes for over $200 and rockauto sells exedy ones for $16. From what I've read here over the years, that's pretty good mileage out of a clutch on these cars. I got rid of my '09 legacy with 262k and it still had the original master and slave cylinders, though at 150k I did notice seepage from the hydraulic hose crimp so I had the dealer replace that.
With that said, m sprank being a former shop owner would probably have a much better idea of how long these parts typically last before needing to be replaced.
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I don't have much to add, but over the years it seems like the TOB always wears out before the actual clutch disc. Subaru finally addressed this a few years ago by putting high temp grease in their bearings. So I'd spring for an oem tob over an aftermarket one, or whatever comes included in the kit. 30502AA121 is the turbo one.
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I just checked the fsm and it doesn't mention liquiid gasket for the water pump, are you looking to try and prevent leaks by adding that to the oem gasket?
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I'm with max. I did some searching, and it appears you have to get that whole front assembly from subaru, which looks like it might be a pain to replace.
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I'd steer clear of those types of undercoating, they can trap moisture underneath and cause big problems. I'd look into something like fluid film or woolwax. I'm also intrigued by some of the other products like crc corrosion inhibitor that are more resistant to wash off, but their more permanent nature also scares me a bit.
Couple test vids link 1 link 2, and there are more tests out there by places like project farm.
I undercoated the front and rear subframe and suspension components of my new rav4 with fluid film last month, and I'm kinda disappointed. It washes off easier than I expected in some spots after driving in a little bit of rain, like the fronts of the lower control arms. So I'm going to hit those spots with woolwax aerosol since I hear it's a little more durable, but can still be washed away.
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Silverton is correct. On the non-turbos there is an empty spot in the fuse box where you can install a fuse to disable AWD, and make the car FWD.
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I remember seein that thread with the socket, I can't find it right now either.
This tool is cheaper than I thought and you could probably sell it on ebay after if you wanted to
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78620-Subaru/dp/B01JBJFK3C
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I think if you can successfully remove the pinch bolt holding the top of the ball joint in, you're golden. Thing is, those bolts like to seize and break. You'll likely need heat to remove it without breaking.
I know there are probably a buncha videos out there for this job, but if you're in MN the job will probably go like this.
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Just to confirm, is this how your clutch fork spring is installed? Does this part of the spring point down into where the pivot ball sits? I can't really tell from the pics, and from the video that seems wicked loose. It looks like there's too much play between the ball/spring/fork. The example image is from the pdf file below. (edit: I also wonder if the spring could be worn)
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10150949-9999.pdf
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3 hours ago, Max Capacity said:
That would be Loctite Blue 242 ?
yeah 242 or 243. I think 243 is a little better if you see it. 243 is better on "inactive" metals, and has better resistance to oil, antifreeze, and brake fluid
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16 hours ago, thefultonhow said:
Farther back than that. The earliest cars with the issue are from 2001. The latest are from 2016 or newer (I haven't checked recently, so not sure if more cars have been added).
Yeah I'm a dummy. I totally forgot that my '09 legacy had the passenger side replaced, so 2006 shouldn't have been much of a surprise. 1996 on the other hand, dang..
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Sad, and surprising. I had no idea this airbag shrapnel stuff went back all the way to 2006. A 23 year old was killed by shrapnel in his 2006 Ford Ranger after a minor crash.
https://weartv.com/news/local/troopers-pensacola-traffic-fatality-blamed-on-recalled-takata-air-bags
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I remember a trick I read when I was considering replacing my oil pan. Cut the heads off some m6 x 1.0 bolts to make studs, and thread them into the block to act as studs to help align the pan.
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I'd only use RTV to seal the pan, same way it was from the factory
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Before digging too deep I'd verify that both bulbs are still in fact good. It's unlikely they died at the same time, but certainly possible. What year is your legacy? The drl's in my '09 were the high beams, not the lows
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It's normal, it may take up to a week to return to normal depending on how much driving you do.
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Yeah looks like it could be below your main engine harness, least based off what I saw in the post below
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Looks pretty simple after getting the door panel off, though I've never done it myself
Starting at 8:20 in this youtube link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzQXDoMvS0g
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Brake Light
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Posted · Edited by apexi
Are you still running the oem hard metal brake lines in the back? If so, you're likely leaking from the 2-2 way joint connector, or where the brake lines are held up against the frame by plastic clips around the gas tank.