abakja1

looking for 5th gen Passenger seat occupancy sensor and black box

Thank you

What RPM are you hitting 16psi boost?

 

Mine would hit ~17psi at 2700 RPM and it felt very torquey from then on. Below that, it was like a 2.5 with a restriction. On the top at about 5000 RPM the torque fell off a cliff, so I wouldn't really consider it a top end turbo. From looking at dynos of older LGTs, and driving my buddie's '09 WRX stage 2, I thought my '10 LGT had more low end torue.

This is what I feel too as you described.

I had a 2005 LGT and that felt much more driveable down low whereas the 11' feels like you need to rev it more to get into the powerband when comparing stage II setups.

Ive modded both cars, so trying to make a comparison on the 11' I have now, compared to the 05, I sold back in 2010 as the 11" I feel I really have to get it past 3500rpms to get it going. the 05' felt quicker down low, and more eager to rev up to redline.

I thought that either the 11' I bought had a tired turbo or perhaps gearing or weight may be a factor,, but its not as "peppy" as the 05 I had with similiar mods before going stage III.

Im keeping the 11' lgt at stage II as I want it to be less tendency to breaking down since it got 66k miles on it now..

Hi guys,..

Im curious if its just my car since i bought it used with 60k on the odometer, but does this car lack the low end torque and response compared to the the older models?

Im not sure if its because of the exhaust design now being without the unequal length manifolds or if im used to higher hp cars, but i feel the low end isnt there..

Since buying my 2011 lgt used 2 yrs ago, here is my list of mods:

Kn air panel filter

TMIC forgot the brand but is one of the brands for our model year mentioned on this forum

Invidia jpipe

Invidia dual n1 catback

Grimmspeed 3 port solenoid

Oem turbo

Cobb accessport

PDX tuned by Jarrad to run 14psi low or 16psi boost (i have low and high boost maps)

Dynoed at 300hp/300tq respectively on 16 psi map but spiking to 21 psi max at peak

I run the 16 psi map daily

Tuned so that there is more throttle response on throttle tip in (requested by me to Jarrad)

Prior to tune, i did new spark plugs, all oils changedfor engine, trans and rear diff

Im not sure if the oem turbo is more for top end as is does feel more power in top.

Maybe because the 11’ lgt is a much heavier car?

I know im not maxing out on boost gojng with a 14 and 16 psi tune, but Jarrad stated that there is boost spiking to 20-21 max in any case even with the 3 port.

I went with going lower than 18 psi For a daily driver so as not to face and head gasket problems per the forums recommendations.

Perhaps the stock turbo is like this anyways? But i ran pretty good on my 05’ lgt long ago on oem turbo and that felt better down low...

Any suggestions?

Invidia q300 is pretty quiet for aftermarket. I upgraded and nought and installed the invidia dual n1 setup which is louder.

If you were in hawaii, id sell it to you for $400,..but since ur in the mainland ahipping would probably cost $400....

Good time powder coat them since they are apart,...

Brembo rebuild day 1....let's hope I remember how to put them back together [emoji85]

 

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So that is what the side and rear skirts look like on the car,..

I have these unpainted and uninstalled in my spare room sitting,..

Finally did the passenger side of my STI pinstripe the other day (I did the driver side in February, so I've been driving around with only one side striped for 5 months ). Part # ST91042EZ010, Legacy specific STI catalogue part for anyone unaware. I did an arguably better job on this side and had a much easier time with it. The Japanese instructions recommend a wet installation, I opted for dry instead. On the other side, the one piece I tried wet install with (driver's door) is the one piece I messed up the worst. Overall, I think I did a pretty good job. Happy to have the car symmetrical again.

 

I replaced my drive shaft (u joints were leaking)

Installed Boomba shifter plate to replace Perrin shirt shifter (about same short throw but getting into different gears are much better; feels more “slotted”)

Group N tranny mount

Installed Peerin Steering Lockout ( steering feels like a go cart now, happily surprised on this mod)

The turbo oil pan is NOT the place you want to be using. Not even the skid plate under the turbo. If you don't have access to a hoist then a diy wood brace and ratchet straps should give you enough lift to get to the valve covers.

 

I dont consider it necessary, but it helps to have the extra room. Personally, I would just do it without lifting the engine. Not as fun but not impossible either.

 

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So its a big no for the turbo skid plate.....

How about the transmission housing since i dont have and engine lift?

Also, ive done plugs and valve covers on 05’s from fxt, several lgts (mine and a friend) sti,..and now this 11’ lgt and raising the engine a little is the only way i can get my big hands to get the cools and plugs out on the rear sides as well as having easy access to the valve cover and the bolts...

It saves me time, less cut up hands, and much less cursing,...lol

I bought an ebay duckbill type rear spoiler and liked it a lot. It was made of rubber like material and stuck on with 3m tape.

I took it off though as i couldnt find a way to hide the holes left open when i took the oem rear wing off.

I jacked the engine up using the turbo cover as that seemed to be strong enough.

On my 05’ lgt, i used my transmission housing as a jackup point as i dont want to damage an oil pan even with a block of wood.

Is the turbo housing an ok jackup point?

I did some more searching and read there are 4 mounts,..

The front, the left and rear mounts, and the transmission mount.

I was able to life the engine 2 inches or so by loosening the frint mount only not knowing that i should have loosened all 4.

So should i or need to loosen all 4 mounts to raise the engine properly to get to the plugs and valve covers? Someone should do a “How To” for the 5th gen..

Thanks

You would need to unbolt the transmission mounts. (Which were the motors mounts were move to on the 5th gen). It isn’t too hard to unbolt them.

It makes it easier for me to take out the rear coils and spark plugs.

Access is just much easier with the engine lifted a few inches..

do you really need to lift the engine to do the valve cover gaskets?

 

I haven't done them on my Legacy, but on my old WRX (an 02, so an EJ205) it wasn't necessary when I changed them on that car (it would leak on the passenger side and drip onto the up-pipe... pretty annoying)

I just wanted to be sure of this.

I jacked up my motor to replace the spark plugs before but only loosened the front motor mount behind the radiator.

I read that there is a rear motor mount you can access from under the car too, but i did not know this at the time of doing my spark plugs and jacked up my engine without loosening the rear mount.

Do i need to loosen both motor mounts to raise the engine enough to take out both valve covers?

I had an 05 lgt before and its different than the 11’ lgt i have now. On the 05’ lgt, i had to loosen both motor mounts under the car to jack up the engine as well as take off my top radiator support brackets. The 11’ lgt only has the front and rear mount right? Would there be anything else to loosen?

Thanks on your input as ive only found threads on the 05’+ lgts on this issue.

I saw a YouTube video where a guy took the cluster apart and slipped something in over that light to black it out. It was pretty neat and cheap! I am in the same boat. My stock wheels sat in the shed for winter and I must have a dead sensor.

 

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It was stated that the lights are led tyope and soldered to the circuit board..

I was thinking of putting black electrical tape cutout small enough to only cover the sensor light

I had Prova side mirrors for my 2005 LGT but dont know if they make them for my 2011.

The rear view mirror is awesome, but i have a clip on with the same blue glass that i bought for under $20 and use.

If I enter car shows or for baller status, id get this.

Welcome to Subie life!

Now, get ready to emoty your pockets for all the fun mods to begin,..

Dasaita 102" Android radio installed.

Pros"

1. The screen is nice and bright even in sunlight in HD and I live in Hawaii and its like in the 80's today .

2. I am able to view the screen at any angle without any loss of clarity.

3. You can load apps just like you would on your phone or tablet from the Android Play Store.

4. Audio is very good with the built in DSP as I didnt need to do much to adjust the sould other than my preferences on the EQ. I have 6 1/2" JBL separates in front and 2 way 6 1/2" JBLs in the rear.

5. The offline Navigation it comes with on the SD Card is very good, better than Waze for me as its more detailed..(But it kept telling me "You are speeding". I turned off the speed voice notifications, but it can still give you voice directions)

6. Bootup is pretty quick and not as slow as android radios were years ago which was a feature I hated. Now it boots up in less than 30 seconds if that.

Cons:

1. The screen is very close to the radio bezel so even though I can adjust the height up and down, it is hard to get my fingers behind the LCD to readjust the height or angle as there is no space (NOTE: I can put a spacer on the DIN mounting kit to space it outwards, but I will have to trim the mounting bracket. It can be done)

2. Radio reception is not as good as my Pioneer double din was, but it works

3. Too many app choices to pick from (if that is what you would call bad....LOL)

4. The music app doesn't sort my folders alphabetically and can be hard to navigate if you have a lot of files on your SD or USB.

5. You can rotate the LCD to a vertical position, but the screen is still in landscape mode. Perhaps a firmware update in the future will fix this.

https://imgur.com/g3FS76y

https://imgur.com/Rf3siGI

https://imgur.com/FD3iTC6

Also, i think i would be happy with just the carbon fiber overlay without needing to change to dials.

Does this require to remove the trim rings?

Guess it doesnt matter though as no one sells the carbon fiber overlay anyways,...

The ebay seller states that they can do MPH instead of kilometers,...

Just send model year or description and a picture of what gauge you got now and warning lights ( i took pictures with key turned to acc) and type of measurement you want. That way you can choose one of their designs or make up your own and still have all the warning lights etc.

Good to know about the plastic trim surround, and difficulty removing and putting back on, but maybe i can do without it?

Your idea of having a spare or second used gauge around to do the swap and then getting subaru to match odometer maybe an idea,...

Also, i know the jdm overlays are what people used, but they are no longer available, but di the carbin fiber overlay cover up or hide all the warning lights or were they transparent.

Lastly which FB group are you referring to? I want to join, but not sure which Legacy group to join...

I did a forum search and didn't find anything on the topic before posting as usual.

I'll do key word searches for post on the overlay.