ncbill
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Posts posted by ncbill
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21 hours ago, yellowspirit said:
I had this issue on a 2014 Forester. I first replaced the expansion valve and AC relay. After those 2 less expensive parts, I replaced the AC compressor and condenser. The last 2 fixed the problem.
I'm not great at diagnosis... I'm much better at parts cannon.
I thwacked the relay with a tool handle & the A/C clutch engaged & started spinning.
Might be the original (blue Mitsuba) so I'll replace & hope that fixes it until next summer, well, spring here.
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On 9/1/2023 at 3:36 PM, blackobxt said:
Ac relay is known for being a failure point. Freon could be low, cabin filter clogged not allowing sufficient airflow across the evaporator causing it to get cold and turn off. Could be lots of things man. My ac wouldn’t cool any lower than 45° till I did the pot mod.
What is the pot mod?
Last summer I noticed the A/C on my 2005 Legacy i was cutting on and off...cool air followed by warm air followed by cool air.
Had it recharged at my independent shop but now see the below behavior:
This summer it seems to work when the engine is cold or even at operating temperature (clutch spinning merrily) for a brief period before cutting off and then only blowing warm air...I park it, leave it running to check and the clutch is no longer spinning.
Checked the clutch gap with feeler gauges and I think it's within specs...0.03 fits but 0.03 & 0.032 together don't.
So, what should I check next...relay, high/low pressure sensor/switches?
Have the shop check refrigerant charge & expansion valve?
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Carrier bearing...you could feel how rough it was turning it by hand.
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Stumped the local go-to transmission guy for awhile...said he had never heard a sound like that before.
But it wasn't the transmission...a clue was it made the same sounds coasting downhill in neutral.
It turned out to be a bad (rough) bearing in the driveshaft...is it exposed to the weather?
New driveshaft ~$700 installed...hopefully ready sometime today.
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19 hours ago, KZJonny said:
Does the front differential share fluid with the transmission on 4EAT’s? I should know this since I have one, but haven’t done the fluids in a long while.
I’m pretty sure they do not, so perhaps checking the level/colour of the gear oil. Look for glitter if something went *really* wrong?
if there *is* something wrong, I would imagine a junkyard trans would be easier/cheaper than a rebuild. These are actually relatively stout transmissions, and the failure rate on them is pretty low from what I can gather. Plenty lots of them in pick n pull yards these days, for probably like a couple hundred?
car-part.com has some not too far away...the ones with under 100k miles are around $1200.
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Fluid checked...level top of range (checked hot), reddish-brown, last changed 2 years ago when the transmission control solenoid was replaced with a Rostra one.
Still get the squealing sounds if shifted into neutral & allowed to coast.
Already had the local mechanic check the wheel bearings, since the sound is not consistent with speed he didn't think it was a wheel bearing issue...did get a new axle out of that (torn CV boot)
No hesitation or slipping on gear changes.
Any other thoughts?
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No squealing until actually being driven...nothing while in park.
It's parked somewhere else so I haven't checked the fluid yet...again, no hesitation or slipping while being driven.
Right now I have an appointment with a recommended local transmission shop in a week.
Assuming it is that what are the typical costs for rebuild/replacement of a 4EAT (phase/revision 2)?
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Just in the last week or so I'm getting a squealing noise from up front...(base) 2005 Legacy i automatic, 118k miles.
My local independent shop looked at it said it was not a wheel bearing & they don't do transmission work.
Local transmission shop my mechanic recommends was closed all last week for the holiday.
It does vary with speed, is intermittent (sometimes abruptly stops before starting up again), & does change with gear changes.
Still shifts just fine...no slipping or hesitation.
In others' experience does it sound like a transmission issue or something with the transfer case?
I do want to keep it several more years...so what's recommended...used transmission if needed, or rebuild the original?
Thanks for any thoughts!
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Near WFU off Polo Road.
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Update: no problem for my independent mechanic to install.
~$150 for the part, paid ~$350 to install (includes new gasket, filter, fluid of course)
Still beats paying ~$900 just for the assembly!
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2005 Legacy i, ~100,000 miles.
Putting a spare fuse in the AWD holder stopped the "crabbing" (wheel hop & binding) at low speed, so I've ordered: https://rostrapowertrain.com/products/52-0527/
Installation video:
Of course in the video, the assembly is out on the bench, clean & dry.
Is the assembly in which it is installed (part of the valve body?) in the video easily to get to once the transmission pan is dropped?
My local independent mechanic doesn't normally do transmission or engine work...but the transmission shop they prefer has a month wait.
If what the solenoid is attached to is easily removable once the pan is dropped I can probably get my local guys to do the solenoid swap, along with new fluid/filter/gasket, of course.
Thanks for any info!
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Winston-Salem as well.
Acquired a relative's 2005 Legacy i sedan (~100,000 miles) to replace a 1997 Legacy GT sedan (~225,000 urban/city miles)
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Interested in:
Map Lights with white LEDs installed
Dome Light with white LEDs installed
Passenger all-weather mats front & rear...driver's side already sold?
Also rear wheel bearing units if compatible with my base 2005 Legacy sedan.
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Finally retired my 1997 Legacy GT sedan.
~225,000 miles, nearly all city/urban.
It was a hand-me-down from a relative to me, then to my oldest, then my youngest.
Donated it to a local charity.
Replaced it with a 2005 Legacy base sedan from the same relative.
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roughly 175,000 on my 1997 Legacy GT.
looking to buy its (probably) last set of tires.
have been using Kumho, any suggestions?
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winston here
'97 lgt that needs repainting...
AC Temp goes super cold for a short bit then hot for a while.
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Posted · Edited by ncbill
My system was undercharged...probably leaking slowly so O-rings will probably get replaced next spring.
Checked more exotic things like the clutch gap first...now have a set of feeler gauges.
Before smacking the relay and seeing the clutch then engage.
Replaced the original relay with a generic A/C relay..two for $10 off Amazon.