Polo08816

I plan to replace the suspension on a 2008 Subaru Legacy GT 5EAT Sedan.

I see that Swift offers the 4F008 Sport Springs for the Sedan and the 4F007 Sport Springs for the Wagon.

Can the 4F007 Sport Springs for the wagon be installed on a Sedan? They appear to be the same spring rate so I'm wondering how longer the 4F008 rear springs are for the wagon and how much higher the Sedan would sit in the rear? Also, are the front springs of the 4F007 and 4F008 the same?

Seems like you can get aftermarket parts on RockAuto now as well:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8033296&jsn=408

Racecomp (aka GTWORX tuning) recommend Swift. They told me they feel very very similar to Pinks on Bilsteins. Myles has bottomed out his Spec B on Pinks although many others I've spoken to do not have an issue. Given the spring rate the Pinks should be a little more comfortable, but in a performance environment Swifts will be better.

STI Pinks (@$400)

3.9kg/mm F, 5.9kg/mm rear

drop is 15mm all the way around on Bilsteins, although pictures and reviews suggest it's closer to 20mm.

 

Swifts (@$280)

Specifications:

4F007 MY05 Legacy GT Wagon (BP6)

Drop - F:-25mm, R:-15mm (Bilsteins)

Drop - F:-32mm, R:-25mm (USDM KYB)

Rate - F:4.3kg/mm, R:6.6kg/mm

 

4F008 MY05 Legacy GT Sedan (BL6)

Drop - F:-25mm, R:-15mm (Bilsteins)

Drop - F:-32mm, R:-25mm (USDM KYB)

Rate - F:4.3kg/mm, R:6.6kg/mm

 

Check this out....

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59582

Is there some reason someone is not able to use the Swift wagon (4F007) on a sedan?

You'll need to call SOA and talk with them or your local dealership.

 

 

https://www.subaru.com/customer-support.html

If they did the recall where they sprayed the anti-corrosion wax on everything, it's unlikely they will do anything for you. A few people have reported getting lucky and subaru footing the whole bill, others saying subaru offered to cover just the parts (like $300 maybe, and like $2700 labor), while others saying subaru outright told them to pound sand, we're not covering anything. Your best bet would be an independent shop splicing into the lines under the rear seat, and running new lines to the rear left/right wheels. I've heard anywhere from $300-$700 for that. There's always the DIY route too of course, if you're comfortable with that.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6026372&postcount=45

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5789222&postcount=27

 

If the car hasn't been to the dealership for the recall, you could have a chance.. Keep us posted

I see that wax substance in that area so it seems like they may have already done that recall.

That's not too bad of a DIY it seems. Especially the guy that routes it under the back seat to the other side.

So this part of the car actually failed for me and the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor.

Would Subaru honor this recall on a 2008 LGT with 107,000 miles on it?

Yes I see them all the time for less than 2k with blown motors , and you really don't want to swap in a used 2.5 turbo as they have a lot of failures.

 

So new short block at least would be a good idea.

 

Not my first choice but a JDM 2.0 turbo is a much and option with a legacy GT and doesn't require all that much work

 

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Oh okay. With a blown engine. Having a car almost be worthless if it doesn't have a working engine is not unusual.

If you want to do a swap with this much work would be awesome in a much older legacy or gl wagon, 90's Impreza excetera

 

Legacy GTs are worth very little right now, better approach to getting a running legacy gt and some wrench time would be to buy a gt with a blown motor and a do a rebuild

 

 

 

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Interesting. Is that true?

There are two versions of the Bilstein HD. The B6 is designed for use with standard height springs. The B8 is designed for use with lowering springs.

Can you use B6 with STI pinks?

I think you can get to the cable under the finder liner, but without sacrificing the cable I don't know there is much you can do from there.

 

I would start with the suggested latch lubing and have someone push on the hood as you pull the lever.

Worst case, I would imagine that you can get to it by destroying the front grille.

https://youtu.be/xnS0opa7ILU

I'm having a similar issue. There's no resistance on the cable. Would the technique in the Youtube video work?

Pulled mine out today on a 2007 and it appears that the solenoid is now not the same type that can be repaired for $10-15, but a pressed-metal sealed unit with no access to the contacts, and I have not been able to locate this separate unit for sale yet. I think the new model differs by having screws go into it from the front of the start unit rather and having the screws as a part of the solenoid body. Arrrgggh!

 

Good news and bad news. The bad news is that a similar and usable solenoid piece was found at a local shop, Auto Battery and Electric on Hawthorne in PDX, for about $40, but it is still difficult to locate and requires a slight mod from the factory piece (ignition pin is much smaller) to work. Still pretty annoying that Subaru doesn't make this component available separately from the starter. The good news is that even with the new solenoid, the starter didn't work, and when the clerk popped it open it seriously needed new brushes. So he sold me a brush pack for $30 and I was on my way. Hour and 15 min later the wheels were on the ground, with my original and still working solenoid in place. 30 min of the repair was just trying to get the snap ring on the back end of the rod. Hint, push the front of the geared rod with a 1/4" nutdriver handle while using either the correct tool, or in my case an 8mm open end wrench with one side pressing on the back of the "C" and the other gently pushing the open side over the end of the rod. I knew all that brain surgery training would eventually become useful. ;-) Car started on first crank, also thanks to a new batt to replace the 5 yo one that measured 12.51V. Again, shoutout for ABE for above and beyond the call of duty service. How often do you leave a car place thinking that you didn't pay enough?

 

Reread thread and there are examples of the two types of starters and solenoids. The solenoid which has two long threaded rods out the front is likely the old type which can be rebuilt using new contacts and plunger. ABE had it in stock for $40. My type, the PITA to find model, is the one which is held to the starter body by a couple of 1" long phillips screws. BTW, these screws are soft and were tightly held, so use the appropriate full size screwdriver and apply a lot of force to keep the head from stripping

Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a new starter assembly from RockAuto and just replace?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2008,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1440457,electrical,starter+motor,4152

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7946208&cc=1440457&jsn=495

how much was all of it? and what is front lsd, sorry im kind of new here

+1. This is good stuff.

Unfortunately, I'm sort of lazy and if I had to spend this amount of money, I'd just get a new car. Hahaha.

I only mod when OEM components need to be replaced.

in my last car i pulled lots of e-brakes ( i was young and restless). After a while the brake stopped engaging. Can someone explain what was happening? I kind of have an understanding of whats going on reading this tread but not completely.

lol.

The brand isn't nearly fancy enough to work in a Legacy

 

I mean, can you even BUY it in Japan???

LOL. Only buy it if it is JDM special sauce.

Eh? My 2006 LGT and my 92 Eagle Talon are not like that at all. They are both AWD and both handle awesomely in the snow. As a matter of fact, 2 years ago, I had to drive up to Denver in the middle of a snowstorm with summer performance tires on my Talon. I left my friend in his Lancer Evolution with Blizzaks in the dust (snow actually) and I thought I was being careful. There were cars and semis and such strewn all over the sides of I25 but I had no issues. God forbid I would have been driving my LGT with quality M+S tires on it. I would have had to wait over a half hour, rather than 10 minutes, for my friend then. (the Evo handles great too. My friend was too paranoid and not skillful enough)

 

In short, I am calling out your driving style if you think all AWD cars have the issues the Outback has.

 

 

strike

yeah....you're driving skills must be the shit....

...or you may just be a dumbass for thinking you can use a Talon AWD with summer tires and drive faster than an Evo with proper snow tires.