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Posts posted by keithk831
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Which DTC does this eliminate? I'm going back to stock and i'm going to just disable the code in the ROM, but I want to keep the others enabled.
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I will keep my eye on this...Im local
The question on many people's minds now is: Have you ever wanted to be a hired hitman? Post up your paypal email address!
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^^^ Why are we still talking about this?
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I have been seeing lots of posts here about doing a chargeback claim on Paypal. If you haven't done it already, you might as well give up. That's the first thing you should do. For all we know he could just be stalling so that you're SOL. And if he comes clean down the road, then reverse the chargeback.
/discussion of that
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Well, and his "identity was stolen" by what...his next door neighbor?
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Anyone in Central NY care to pay him a visit? IDRVSLO has his address...
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This is a good writeup. Mods- We should un-sticky some of the other posts about this to keep it simple. Or paste the good stuff into here to keep it clean.
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So I installed a 1.2mm pill today. Only a small change from my stock 1.25, but I picked up some extra boost. I was hitting around 15.6 before; I just hit 16.38 without changing anything else. I could probably come close to 17psi in 4th or 5th gear if I really wanted to.
Now to just slightly adjust my tune for it...
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Yeah I have Win7 64 bit home premium. But I bought a tactrix now so I'm good.
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I feel I must post my good fortune with using the cheap vag-com cable. It was the best $13 I ever spent. I installed the drivers from the disc that came with the cable and was flashing and logging in minutes. I want other people to not be discouraged and try this route first if you have the appropriate year vehicle. Worst case scenario your out about $13, thats like 2 cups of coffee at starbucks and you only rent that. lol . Besides if the cable does work you save like $156 rather going the Taxtrix route.
I think it also depends on what machine you're running. Win7 wouldn't even think about installing the drivers that came with the disk. Too old.
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So it gave you a response? If that's the case and it still won't work with the car then maybe the problem is on the other side of the chip where the serial signal is converted to the ODB-II K-line signal. At least it was a "cheap" experiment ;-)
It (FT Prog) connects to the cable but doesnt have any important fields that I can change. No option to invert.
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Did you try any of the FTDI utilities to see if you could even communicate with the chip in the VAG-COM cable? http://www.ftdichip.com/Resources/Utilities.htm
I read of one instance where the chip was not programmed properly and the data was inverted(?), therefore not communicating with the ECU correctly.
I downloaded the utility but it didn't look like there were many things I could change.
Yeah i'm hoping that my OP2.0 cable works like a champ. Actually, tunertools.com has a 5% discount code...just enter Romraider. They shipped it out less than an hour after I placed the order, via USPS Priority mail (free shipping). I highly recommend them!
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^Did you buy the VAG-COM cable, or Autonostics one? The Autonostics doesn't seem to work. You also could have very well just had a shot VAG-COM cable. At around $12 with shipping, I would have tried another one before giving up. But with the Tactrix at least you know it'll work 100% of the time.
It was labeled as VAG-COM and referenced the VAG-COM program in the listing...so i'm assuming that's what it is. It didn't mention Autonostics.
See and I thought about ordering another one, but my custom tune is ready and so I don't want to wait another week and a half to get another cable that could possibly work like crap as well. Plus a lot of users report intermittent issues with VAG-COM, even if they get it working. I'd rather not brick my ECU if I can help it.
Plus, if I no longer need the Tactrix 2.0 cable, I can always resell it for a decent amount.
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I would lean toward user error...not to single you out...but several on here are using it successfully.
It took me about 5 minutes to install software, hook up cable and be in my car logging.
The cable works fine.
Lucky you...unfortunately I have tried everything. I'm fairly computer savvy and I tried various combinations of drivers, versions of software, and USB ports. Did the same on an XP machine with the same result. I'm sure it's the cable.
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Update: I have given up on VAG-COM and I just ordered a Taxtrix 2.0 from tunertools.com. Used the coupon code "Romraider" for 5% off, so it came to $160 and change shipped.
I tried my VAG-COM cable on an older XP machine and it still didn't work. I do not recommend this cable to anyone.
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Yep, it's showing the COM port just fine and I have been able to use RR with my APv1 cable.
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For what OS?
I'm running Windows 7
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Can someone with a working Vag-Com cable check in Device Manager and tell me exactly which driver files and versions are being used? Also the Manufacturer name under the General tab, as well as the name of the device showing under your com ports? I'm trying to determine which set of drivers to use...Tactrix or FTDI since neither is working right now.
Mine shows up as a USB-Serial device or something like that.
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Yeah, but i'm considering a custom Magnaflow axleback. Magnaflow 14827s, which should be about the same as what the catback uses. Just curious.
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Perrin Axle-back, stock otherwise:
- Allen.
How does this compare to the sound of a Magnaflow axle-back?
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Here is my custom exhaust on my setup.
20g /ewg with shorty DP
3" hiflow catt
3" Borla XR-1 as resanator
Y 3" to dual 2.5"
Dual 2.25" magnalow mufflers
Here are the sound clips:
Outside
inside
WOT windows up
WOT windows down
All I can say is "wow". Is that turbo sound in the last video just from the 20g? I would love to be able to have my car sound like that.
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So today I took apart the door panel and more or less fixed the switch. There are some instructions in the walkthough section on how to remove the rear door panel. This is the thread you want to read. I removed the door panel, then the switch. Then, I dismantled the switch and popped off the problematic one. Using a toothpick, I dabbed some grease on the white rolling pin inside, and the springy white pin that falls out with the button. Put it back together, and it seems to be working much better now.
Hope this helps someone!
Be careful LGT.com car sellers.
in Cars For Sale
Posted
My personal rule of thumb: If the English sucks, or if they're asking questions you answered in your original post (condition, asking price, pictures, etc), I just delete it.
In the words of Strongbad: "You're not Ali. You're not even...literate".