ClimberDHexMods

So, went to the dealer a week ago. Turned out to be my rear diff. So they ordered the parts they needed and said they'd call me back when they're in. Wasn't even the transmission. Thank god. Covered under warranty still too which is good.

I hear this happening more and more over the past few years. Rear diffs fail after a while, sometimes.

Ok i have seen the question asked but not fully answered. Currently have an 05 Outback XT 5EAT. Trans Slips going into 5th at times. Got P0735 incorrect gear ratio code today. Have spare perfect shifting 5EAT trans from my 05 Legacy Gt, but not the rear diff. Conflicting info on whether these can be swapped with out the rear differential.

Front differential.

LGT 3.272

OBXT 3.5xx or something like that. Key point is it's different.

You would at minimum need to at minimum keep the original front diff ring and pinion with the car, or you're going to tear up your center diff quick.

IF those are the only differences, then you'll be alright. VBs are the same, most internal parts are definitely the same, center diffs are the same, but some people I've worked with have ended up in hell trying to get mispatched parts to work, so do so at your own risk, after pouring over a split screen pullup of every part number for each trans that you can find.

Just my $0.02

Or just get the rear diff ring and pinion or total assembly to match. As long as they match you are likely good. I don't know whether you would throw codes or the various speed sensors feeding the various CAN modules (ABS & Trans) would leave you alone after they talk to each other.

There's nothing wrong with resetting the TCU, it's just that 95% of the time it accomplishes no added benefit after it is done making learning adjustments.

I do not know what is wrong here. VB could indeed be defective. All VB bolts should be torqued to 80in-lbs (NOT ft-lbs), and trans fluid level should be verified while hot, engine running, after car has completed a full hot/cold drive cycle and cooldown, as I have seen a perfect level drop as much as a full quart.

Note shipping either way takes minimum 6 weeks. Suggest sending via the White House for express service with no customs clearance required

Completely on board, just messaged utc_pyro about details of getting it shipped. Should take under two weeks.

I thought it was that originally as well but it had a newly built motor and just got tuned. The afrs perfect and there are no leaks. The stalling only happens when the transmission is could and on the first reverse, after I restart it doesn't stall again. So that makes me think it's the transmission. Another note is that I'm pushing 310 whp and 330 tq through it and regularly autocross it. So I wouldn't be surprised if something is damaged.

snow05gtRI is most likely on the right track. The problem is most likely with either your tune or your engine. The transmission isn't going to stall your engine. I could write a 10,000 words about why, but I think you get the point. The ECU is being fed some data that is outside of desired operating range at idle. Load, MAF, MAP, something is off.

that's what i thought when i first looked into it, was hoping someone found/made a solution xD

 

Still doing vbmod's? i may need one soon =)

Yes sir, still upgrading valve bodies regularly.

My 08' obxt was having issues with my TCC lockup and i eventually diagnosed a bad solenoid.

 

I replaced the VB with new OEM and reflashed the mem with a vagcom cable and ssm.

 

Worked legit, car was driving wicked for 6 months and then no reverse when the wife was driving it last weekend. (Actually the reverse was getting weird and started taking a while to engage)

It now works ok when cold... but we're not driving it.

 

Car is at 287hp/335tq currently. I don't want to go 6spd since I sit in traffic ALOT... but I also don't want to be doing rebuilds annually either

How many miles?

Sounds like you already know what to do to fix it. 2008s usually are pretty reliable, not sure what's going on with yours.

I have my center differential all cleaned and disassembled. I've got the bushings,rem and cryo'd pinion gears and input shaft all ready. I am wondering about having to reshim for new clutch packs?

Probably a question better answered by Hexmods... but if it were me, I would be shimming it the same exact way it came from the factory(i.e.- when I took it apart).

Following up on your direct message so it's out there for public record:

If you put it back together with the same clutch pack, or use new OEM frictions in the same config as what you had, then you do not need to re-shim.

Re-shimming the center diff clutch is a giant pain unless you've done that kind of thing many times.

bump - climberD did you get the 6 pots to fit? I was looking into this a yr or 2 ago and didn't see much available. Happy to see this got some attention.

I never bought them, as I realized you would have to do some serious modifications to the two knuckle caliper mounts. Wouldn't just be a simple bracket, the knuckle mounting is too intrusive. I've got F40 style brembos on that will be fine. You would need a mill and even then...

So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well.

 

I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset?

 

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I've seen this a lot in various forms. It's likely related to the engine. So many support issues I've seen with the 5EAT have been resolved with something as simple as an engine vacuum leak. I do not know what the exact mechanism is, but it's the ECU sending incorrect signals to the TCU. ECU itself is fine, problem is an input somewhere is not what the TCU wants to see at certain moments, such as during your bad shift.

How did you change the solenoid? From what I've heard the electronics(save for the external harness) are not serviceable units. Perhaps there's a chance that even though you've changed the faulty solenoid, there is still an underlying problem?

The solenoids are easy to change, just one torx bolt and gently pulling it out (plastic held secure by two o-rings). They are now also easy to find, and not terribly expensive. Just make sure you don't buy one of questionable origin, as with any aftermarket replacement part.

Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated..

 

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What was your CEL Code? Not P0700, but the next code, something like P0741. Let's first double check that you replaced the correct solenoid... PM me too about this, happy to help.

he speaks!

 

glad to see you're still lurking

For a time I really came to dread dealing with my LGT and all things related, but I'm in a better place now and I am starting to enjoy it again. Might be on here a bit more often

My '05 is beginning to slip a bit. Someone recommended a TCM reset as it worked for him. How can that be done? Is it a dealer only thing?

It likely won't do anything, exceptions are rare.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-free-ssm-thread-151177.html

Change the fluid until it's fresh.

Lucas Trans Fix might help depending on the mode of failure.

if they fit under 04 STI BBS 17" wheels, i'd use em. half thought of buying calipers to make my own adapter but i've got too many projects already. one being rebuild of some LGT calipers (since i'm on OBXT this second).

From what I have read, not even the Cadillac 4-pots fit under these, do they?

Maybe it could create an issue if it wears into it

But id assume the small areas of over hang would just break off?

Maybe get some slightly diff shaped pads?

Different shaped pads aren't really an option

If anyone wants "perfect" alignment then there is the 4-pot option. The only people who would get upset about such a thing with a 6-pot are the same people who don't actually do ambitious upgrades in the first place. In other words, a non issue. /rant

It was a trick question.

It doesn't cause a problem. I had this happen on an early set of rear brembo adapter brackets before the good KNS ones came out. You literally just have an unused brake pad lip form and maintain itself on the part of the pad that does not engage with the rotor. It's not a problem, it's just not "perfect". You could cut it off with a box cutter if you wanted, otherwise it will take care of itself.

Putting a 6-pot Brembo Caliper on a 326mm rotor was never going to be perfect, but this is surprisingly good, which was more the point of my post

For you guys wanting to run the Gen 2 CTS-V 6-pot calipers, do you care whether there is 3mm of pad overhang on the outer corners and inner middle of the pad?

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=240848&stc=1&d=1479432101

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=240849&stc=1&d=1479432101

Yes, neither do I

Anyone know about the fitment for 2016+ Camaro Brembos? Couple of sets local but couldn't locate any info on the Camaro vs Caddy stuff.

The mounting ears of the caliper castings for the Camaros appear to be longer than the ATS. If that is correct, then the calipers and pads would stick out too far from the rotor

Did you fill the torque converter with ATF prior to install? Assuming you did:

This is binary.

Replace valve body. Pass/fail.

If fail, it's internal to the transmission. You have a good grip on the FSM troubleshooting, which is key. Hopefully pulling it apart reveals a smoking gun. If you find one clutch pack burned up, definitely replace any related seals.

All connectors checked. Probed some wires with my multi-meter per FSM. Was supposed to get a resistance of 500 to 1500 ohms across some pins. Got 0.

So that means I need to drain the trans and get at the valve body for more checking.

 

I don't even know if I'll see anything when I get in there. Not fun.

 

Wondering how much damage I'd do if I spoofed the resistance in the normal range, say 1000 ohms. I have a trans temp gauge installed anyway.

 

Probably a bad idea, but so is a new valve body. Can't buy valve body 'components'.

I would PM climberD about that, I'm sure he has a pile of 'mostly working' valvebodies.

I do indeed have plenty of these control boards, and inhibitor switches, depending on which temp sensor got damaged. Would be a relatively easy swap, and will eliminate any potential issues in the future with regards to one sensor reading X and one reading a distant Y. Just in case you want to go at it yet again.

Okay I figured out how to swap these rings over... kinda feel dumb now, but it was REALLY hard to see.

I'm just going to PM you my number so you can ask questions without my sometimes long response delays, if you prefer.

Keep it up!

Thanks! Looks like I will probably need those bushings!

 

Actually...if you'd only ever build a valve kit for the 5th gen 5EAT...

PM replied. Sorry for the delay.

I would love to say I have a valve body for the 5th gen, but I'm afraid not. I've since learned to stop over promising about what is possible in the future. All I can do is what I can do, and it's a lot more complicated to figure certain things out than I ever thought.

I love your build!

We'll talk center differential bushings.

Yeah, at first I didn't even realize that shaft was THE part, and THE reason for a diff upgrade. I thought it was all about crappy soft needle bearings breaking. At least I already have a solution.

Yup, bit more to it than that. The gear teeth are physically the weakest link in the power train, but there are several things that actually happen when a lot of torque is loaded and failure occurs.

Kind of like if you have bad knee pain there are many things you can do to improve it, from increasing mobility to strengthening the joint, to taking advil, to realizing your ankles and hips might be the problem thereby causing the tension up or down the kinetic chain. And then the number of fixes compounds to be so many, and you don't know whether the chiropractor or doctor or personal trainer or yoga teacher is the right one since each one has solved it in a different way.

That's why I keep saying cryo, even though you just installed the bushings. Rarely is someone holding a diff input shaft in new condition without a huge time crunch to get the car back together. As a 5EAT healthcare consultant, I care about fixing this issue probably more than the average 5EAT driver who just broke the diff and just wants their car back. Totally get it.

Looking for the Transgo instructions for the 5EAT kit, or just the drilling info, given ClimberD's amazing walk through; thanks guys!

I am also curious about this because I actually bought the RE5R05A TransGo kit because it was $50 cheaper. From what I've read, the only thing different is the instructions? Also in his guide, I think ClimberD said the drilling steps were pointless. I was just going to use that 'schweet' walkthrough. Going to try and tackle that install this weekend.

I should have a copy on my computer, send me your emails.