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BoostWagon

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Posts posted by BoostWagon

  1. "Remove the wheels and break loose each of the bleeder screws and then check them to make sure that they are open and not rusted shut. If they are, use a piece of wire or drill bit to open the center and side holes and then reinsert back into your calipers or wheel cylinders."

     

    Stupid question here, I assume you are cracking each bleeder screw to ensure they will in fact open, then closing them and doing one corner at a time with the drain process?

     

    Thanks.

  2. Can anyone tell me why Legacy GT do not come with an engine oil cooler fitted as per Subaru Engine manuals. The lack of an Engine Oil Cooler will cause the engine oil to denigrate and has been found to cause big end bearing failure in 2 ltr GT engines from 15,000 kms to 135,000 kms.

     

    As noted in response to the above by another poster, you screw your filter onto this. And when it fails (leaks), its a $200 part. Tried replacing oil lines and hoses, O-ring to no avail. Pisses me off when a simple heat exchanger fails.

     

    Was going to tackle the replacement myself, but then my clutch failed so I had them do the cooler at the same time.

  3. Thanks for the write-up on how to do this. Have a P0302 code, before I change plugs I figured I'd swap the injectors on cylinders 2 & 4, see if the code moved.

     

    Ran into trouble getting a grip on the injectors to pull them out with pliers, noticed the holes on each side. Figured those were probably used for a specialty tool made for pulling the injectors, so I made a puller out of a heavier duty coat hanger and one sturdy zip-tie, worked like a charm.

     

    Having trouble attaching pics today, so here's a description of how. Use one of the hangers that has the cardboard tube, discard the tube. Cut off both bend ends so you have two equal length straight pieces connected by the curved hanger end. Using a pair of pliers, bend a 1/4 tip 90 degrees to the end of each side. Then bend an offset (two bends required each side) into each end so that the tips can fit into the injector, while the two hanger wires can snug together just above the injector. Cinch the zip tie around the two wires, trim the excess.

     

    Slide the zip tie up towards the hand grip (hanger) end while inserting the bent tips into each side of the injector. Slide the zip tie down to tighten the tips in place in the injector. Hold the puller with one hand near the injector, pull on the other end, should work fine. You can also bend one of the handles on a binder clip as shown, but the hanger is the easier solution.

    IMG00310-20120909-1235.thumb.jpg.e75304383861e12f391634d31e21d5fa.jpg

  4. yes the harness is easily changeable about 30 min job.

     

    the wires go over to the rear dome light 1 ground screw near the rear dome light. then the wires gow down right behind the right brake light and there are 3 plugs un plug those and pull the wire up so you can access the dammaged areas with out cutting the acordian boot.

    the rear hatch cover comes ovver easy with only 2 screws and 6 pop thingys . i'll take a few pics .

     

    Very interested in your pics for this, I fixed my hatch lock and license lights by splicing 3 wires - at least 3 more look to be headed for failure. Saw one harness connection above the right rear taillight on the pillar, but it didn't look like it went into the hatch, and it only appeared to have two wires. There was another bundle of cables in some kind of sheath, but no harness connections accessible via the upper trim panel on the column. If I take off the lower panel, will I find more connectors for this harness?

     

    Update: Wiring harness is $243(!) at local dealer, roughly $183 at Fred Beans. Both too pricey, sounds like time for a You-Do-It Electronics trip.

  5. Looking for a low cost strut/spring combo to replace my stock setup. My LGT is a DD, I don't track it and am looking for a mild drop. Will the KYB struts and Epic Springs be a good combo?

     

    Another DD here, based in New England. Havng my Konis and Epics installed this Thursday, I opted for the adjustability of the Konis with our widely variable roads. Probably wont tweak them often, just figure ut what setting I like best and leave it there most of the time.

     

    Never researched the KYB cost but the Konis can be had for less than $500 right now for all 4.

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