GrayT

Having seen your video it is clear your BPV is connected correctly. The confusion is over the generic use of the labeling of the T... YOU have a T there, but it functionally still connects (via the other side of the T) to the nipple referenced in the BP Mod instructions. So instead of just the one line from the BPV needing clamped/secured, you have at least three there. The little hose that goes from that T you have and the Intake Manifold nipple still needs clamped/glued.

 

My 11 WRX did not have that T, the BPV line went singularly to the IM nipple. My STi is different. My 05 Legacy GT was different. But they all still work the same, logically. To my knowledge there is no sensible hose routing information, anywhere. Even Subaru manuals only provide disjointed concepts, but no overall, visually useable, hose routing. You have to create your own, either put in on paper or pictures or have it secure in your mind.

 

I posted the link to the boost control circuitry to give a general idea, for even that is simplified and doesn't factually depict the actual circuitry in all cars. If you investigate your boost control, as well as other hoses, you will find you have other Ts as well.

 

It would be of large value to define where the small line goes from the T you have videoed... instead of just saying it goes into the engine somewhere. The problems people encounter are due to a (stupid) engineering failure by Subaru to provide barbed connectors for their vacuum/BOOST hoses. Vacuum is no problem, of course. But once the hoses are moved, age changes the rubber, or boost in excess of stock is applied to these hoses they begin to fail by blowing off. In most cases when they blow off it only causes inconvenience... but if your Fuel Pressure Sense Hose blows off you will probably need a new motor. There are a bunch of hoses, all need secured. Super-glueing and zip-ties are better than nothing. Super glue and a corbin clamp are ideal. Your car, your fixes.

 

FWIW, Subaru implements their boost control in a variety of visually different configurations. However, they all work the same, and that Cobb article explains the logic. It is the mark of a thorough and responsible owner/modder to become familiar with ALL the hoses and components on their car, and not treat a single one as a "mystery" part that goes "somewhere." Otherwise, someday, you or someone else will be looking for the facts when dictated by problems, as opposed to foreseeing those problems and eliminating them preemptively.

 

Pardon my introduction of uncertainty, but it highlights an issue as yet without resolution.

I totally see and agree with where you're going with that statement. I plan to spend a few hours one day tracing vacuum lines and making sure everything is secure.

Thank you for your insight.

Yes. Sorry if I wasn't real clear in my explanation but you have it right.

Awesome! Thank you sir.

My BLUE T-Fitting under the intercooler has all 3 lines zip tied and a drop of super glue on them.

On the turbo side there is a TAN T-Fitting that has 3 lines on it. All 3 of those have clamps. That is the side with the restrictor pill in it.

So do I have all the lines secure now?

Money sent via website.. Cant wait!

Any particular CV Joint Banding Tool that we need?

does anyone know how edmunds obtains the tmv price?

http://www.edmunds.com/about/pricingtable/lo/about_pricing2.html

I know you could easily run 225/45 on the stock wheels without any rubbing issues. I am also pretty sure you could go even wider(235/40)..but I will let someone who has actually done this comment; I am not certain.

Awesome, thank you!

So... has anyone tried these?