grovlet

I've had Koni's and stock springs for about 3k miles, love them!

 

 

 

 

Me too:wub: - makes for the perfect winter corner carver:p:cool:

 

 

I also have upgraded sway bars and new bushings all around;)

Oh no! Unfortunately Kenny passed away right after taking over candlepower.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

That's a shame - looks like a new company bought out the site though:cool:

Memotronics - Candlepower

 

 

They carry Vosla bulbs - both H11 & HIR2 as well for what seems like cheap pricing:p

Well - last week ended with a new water pump - took the car for a drive after a month or so - ran well - and still no ABS lights for the brakes (yeah)!

Backed into the driveway and smoke pours out of the engine bay - been there - figured the usual just a little coolant from the turbo coolant lines dripping onto the turbo..... NOPE - Billowing smoke pouring from hood and 1/2 cup size puddle forming under the car.

 

Turned out to leak from weep hole as well as breaking through gasket - odd as the whole setup / engine / full rebuild is only 12K in.

 

Will try to remember to drive the car more:spin:

New Battery today - non driving in Covid really took it's toll.... Although battery was last replaced in 2013 - so I guess not too shabby:lol:

 

 

And a quick drive around the block shut down the year long ABS Light that I thought was a bad sensor I was too lazy to get looked at.....:cool:

PM Madrig

 

I believe he's making CF Scoops....

I went Borla - it's readily available - IMHO perfect for our cars - louder and deeper than stock - but not obnoxious.... (I have an Nvidia Downpipe and VF52 as well)

 

 

Ohh and fitment is good too - as well as Stainless with 1MM mile guarantee..

I recommend ESP - they just did a bunch of suspension / brake work / new exhaust on my car in October!

But they are well versed in Subarus - hell Dave (owner) had a well sorted LGT wagon as DD for quite a while...

I would think if your not looking for more than OEM+:

* Downpipe + Tune (Cobb AP needed here)

* Grimspeed Top Mount I/C

* Brake Upgrades are always a good idea after added power

* Tire Upgrade / Wheels

* Suspension - Sway Bars / Koni Yellow Shocks to start

* Suspension (next) - Upgraded Bushings + Lowering Springs

* Exhaust - more for sound - but it's always nice to hear the car

 

That's likely way more than you'll have $$ for but that's the order I would think it through.....

Wheel Bearings?

 

I also had a front strut loosen up the top nut on the Top Hat / Top Mount... Would think you would notice that - it clunks/clicks over bumps more so than a shimmy - but worth a look.

well - fun is one thing - but don't be like this Darwin Award Winner:

Tavaris Jackson - Accident - TMZ

 

 

or a moron like Ben Chen:

Ben Chen - Gambella GT - Road and Track

Neither..... The latest ideal is a German Volsla 65W bulb from Daniel Stern Lighting:

Daniel Stern Lighting Products Page - Scroll down to H7 Bulbs...

 

Not the cheapest but the best option ATM.

P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1

 

That's concerning - and makes sense if all you did was throw parts on the car, but not update the tune for those parts... A custom tune would be needed for the VF52.

 

Also I would remove the intake - that also causes issues in these cars with the MAF readings... Can be handled by a custom tune if needed - but the stock intake is good for 400WHP - so not worth the aggravation at the level your at.

 

Lastly - you should avoid driving the car until all of this is sorted out - as you have conditions occurring that would do serious damage to engine internals.....

 

I would suggest having a reputable tuner review the car and properly tune it.

also check the coil pack connectors - the plugs get brittle and crack causing loose connection.

 

I had one break completely - car idled only (barely ran - totally rough/would not go over 1.5K RPM) - zip tied connector back together = all better. I did eventually replace it afterwards - but at least it proved out the issue.

Another user of DW65:cool: - Running for 5+ years and 20psi of boost = no issues with the pump at all!

well - I just went through this when my mufflers rusted off at the Y Pipe over the axle (again)....

 

To replace all pipes and mufflers (cat back) - exhaust shop wanted ~$600 out the door. But that was just standard aluminum piping - with which they had already fixed the broken Y Pipe 1.5 yrs ago.... AND I bet if you check you stock mufflers - they are rusted to hell as well - mine were:spin:(along with the straight pipe to the rear axle)

 

For $750 I went Borla (Stainless) - which is essentially warrantied for life.... totally worth the extra $150 to resolve the issue for quite some time (maybe permanently)

 

Fitment is great - and sound is not that much loader - I really thought it would be far worse = prepped the wifeee for LOUD - and she was happy when she heard it. (I'm also running a DP and VF52 - so may even be quieter on stock car)

still here.... Car just turned over 131K - although I think I replaced EVERY part on it except the windshield (and still run the original wheels in winter:p)

Sterling is kinda far out, lol it looks like it will take both of us around the same time to get to that shop, if you driving from East Granby

 

 

Could be.... I do indeed drive ~1.5 hrs (sometimes a little less depending on driving style:lol:) to get there - but it's an easy drive and I don't mind.... I find it worth while to get good service:cool:

 

There's really no other good shops close to me - so you may find something closer to Boston I suppose...

 

 

FYI - That's the shop that Tuning Alliance partners with for mechanical work and they are in Vernon CT...

I highly recommend ESP in Sterling MA - you won't be disappointed:cool::

Enhanced Street Performance

How do you do with AMR inlet?

Is everything went smooth=bolt on?

 

 

You do realize this thread is 6 YEARS old correct - and 05Sleeper has been inactive for 2+ years - so don't expect much for response...

With the ideals of one tire setup - I recommend the pilot sport 4S - it's the goto tire for all around performance.

 

Of course there are other options if you ant to forgoe certain aspects:

- Indy 500 is supposedly 8/10 of P4S performance for for ~2/3 the price

- Continental DSW is anpther option - but almost as pricey with more of a touring performance feel (supposedly)

- And as noted you can go better dry performance and forego the wet with a full on performance tire

 

I run the P4S on my LGT and my S4 and it's more than enough for spirited street driving in all but winter temps - and it certainly could do HPDE / Light Track Duty - but as noted you will NEVER get the 30K mileage they claim out of them - but it's supposedly easy to warranty for $ off the next set (I am my first sets on both cars)

I like my VF52 - but more and more finding with the Auto it gets caught in lower RPM Ranges (requiring a little extra time to spool) when not driving spiritedly....

 

I wonder if a ported VF46 - would be a better option for an auto car?

 

But either one is a good option.

 

 

EDIT: FYI - I run my VF52 on stock injectors - but have a DSW365 Pump installed

I run the larger Amsoil Filter - EA15K13

 

Interestingly enough - Amsoil filters run a lower bypass 11 -17 PSI on all filters - so high bypass may not always be the answer?

 

Although I would think they've at least generally researched appropriate bypass levels since they are sponsoring race cars and such?

 

Amsoil Filter Specs

I run Performance Snows on all my winter cars:

 

LGT gets:

Pirelli Sottozero 3 - 225/45/17

 

I also run the Michelin Alpin PA4s on my S4 - but unfortunately they are 18" + sizing only

 

Both tires will provide plenty of dry road grip and perform in snow:cool:

 

I ran the Sottozero 3s on the S4 previously - and had them in blizzard conditions multiple times (Both S4 and LGT) = No Concerns at all.

 

 

Edit: Tire Rack Ratings - Winter Tires

 

 

You'll see the Sottozero3s are the top rated with sizing that fits the Stock LGT 17" Wheel Sizing - the PA4s are a little better rated (but need 18") - and the other close tires (above and below) are older and only available in odd sizing.

I just put the Borla on my car - Excellent fitment and you'll never need another exhaust for the life of the car... If you want aftermarket it's a great option!

 

I really thought it would be louder - it's actually a nice volume - inside = no louder than factory - sounds really nice from the outside - but not loud in any real sense - and NO DRONE at all (note I also run a catted Invidia Downpipe)

Hmm - Bouncy from Koni Yellows?

 

Mine are relatively stiff - so I would investigate if they are blown.... I just had to replace mine @ ~20K as they were leaking (and I'm running stick springs)....

 

There really isn't much options for a performance strut beyond Konis that wouldn't be into coilover territory for price.

 

 

Edit: My car is DD with 225/35/18 Michelin P4S - so definitely a sticky summer compound - also swap over to Michelin Winter Performance Snows in the winter months....