bigstrusk

Theorizing here: HG internal leak means compression should be low somewhere right (on my list to verify). That would be misfires, correct, but anything else? Would that also mean a richer AFR? And then by extension, I would *not* expect more knocking, measured by FLKC, low IAM, LV,.. because those are lean indicators? 

I'm absolutely not an expert on how these ECUs behave... this is where I need help. 

On 8/9/2023 at 9:20 AM, Max Capacity said:

If you have the MLS HG installed you should be fine. Seems the fix for the old HG issues in the 2.5i was to use the MLS HG the turbo engine got.

I believe I do (MY11) and unfortunately I am not, verified by combustion leak test and bouts of overheating. 

On 8/9/2023 at 11:38 AM, KZJonny said:

I'd be genuinely curious to hear what the quotes you get for the work might be.

I just did this job on my 2.5i, and aside from the fact that I already own an engine hoist and stand, which I recognize are costly, it wasn't so bad. I got a complete head gasket job set for maybe $240 CAD, which had more gaskets than I really needed/was going to swap, so I could've gone cheaper there and just got intake/exhaust and head gaskets.

Fresh fluids new timing belt and some exhaust studs + shop materials... I'd say I'm less than $500 CAD into it? So, that could either be incentive to have a go yourself, or at least a comparison to what someone might charge you.

If you take the heads to a machine shop, you'd need to factor that in as well, but any garage would pass that cost on to you as well, so it's kind of a wash on that one....

Dealer quotes are 3500+, not including any extras or machining. Indy/specialists around me are ~3000 including extras and machining. $USD 

I am mechanically and technically competent enough to do the job myself. However, family, work, and the other 2 car projects I've got mean I've gotta outsource this one because of time. 

Thanks for the reply! I'm not looking to tune the engine really, just what ECU params would show a worsening HG. Ex) would I see cyl roughness increase? Misfire codes? Will knock or IAM get increasingly worse? Wasn't sure if anyone out there had any experience on what typically goes wrong first. 

All routine maintenance and troubleshooting has been done. Changed TB, water pump, and coolant 20k ago, which was ahead of schedule. I'd more recently pressure tested the system as well; maybe I'll static test it again for hahas, but pretty sure that since it's an internal leak, a running test would spike up. 

I've recently diagnosed a bad head gasket on my 2011 2.5i via CO2 test of the cooling system, likely an internal failure. I know the HG will need to eventually be replaced. I'm getting quotes now, but I need to wait a while to cover the $.

At the moment, the system can still regulate itself provided the coolant is full, with coolant temps averaging 190 and max at 215 (hot day idling after a drive). I believe the "warning" point is ~230 and "uh oh" point is ~240.

I know to keep my eyes out for the physical signs like white exhaust smoke, mixed fluids, and external leaks (which I have none of atm). I have my Tactrix hooked up to BtSsm so can monitor most things ECU-related. I've tuned my throttle but haven't yet learned the guts of engine tuning.

What are the important parameters and thresholds to pay attention to that would indicate the problem is getting worse?

Enablers be enablin. Just ordered. Thx again for the tip! 

On 2/28/2023 at 11:01 PM, DrD123 said:

reviving an old thread!

If anyone is looking to upgrade their lowbeams to LEDs, VLEDS has the H7 Micro Extreme on clearance for $100 (they changed the colors of the housing for their new lineup, so these are the ones with the black housing with a red ring on them) - I've had these for 3 years and they are pretty awesome!  (these are the 5K color)

https://www.vleds.com/closeout/micro-extreme-h7-closeout.html

 

Did you need any of the accessories? I've been getting sick of constantly changing blown low beams... Half off price is tempting. 

Checking back in. Still hasn't overheated since. Finally got around to testing stuff with the Mityvac. Cap holds up to and releases at 15psi. Static pressure is consistent at 18psi. Dynamic test showed no immediate jumps or pressure bouncing, stays consistent at 18psi. Factory specs are 14-18, with 12 being service limit. No signs of coolant in fluids. No seeps or leaks I've ever noticed. Fans both kick on with AC. 

Only thing I can think of is that it wasn't filled or burped properly when the water pump/TB was changed. The parts kit on the service invoice shows a thermostat as well.

Is another flush and refill even worth it at this point?  I have some SOA conditioner to throw in regardless. Should I just top off and monitor?

So frustrating... 

I was thinking about that too re: the coolant. A local shop did the job so I doubt they used OEM fluid and/or additive. If I don't find anything odd elsewhere I'll likely change that, maybe with some Water-Wetter -type enhancer. 

TY for the AC tip. I was also considering flashing the ECU w/ a lowered fan engagement threshold, but that'll be a last resort. 

Thx for the reply, DrD123. I'll start with the pressure/cap. Below tester looks well-received and price is right. I'd like to check the fans as next step. Will have to think about how to jump em and test relays. 

I've been around Subarus long enough to be leery of HG, but I'd still be quite disappointed if that was it. 115k of strong maintenance and light usage ('til now).

Mityvac MV4560 Automotive Radiator/Cooling System Pressure Test Kit, Contains Adapters to Test Most U.S. and Asian Cars, Light Trucks and European Vehicles https://a.co/d/ibHxvGA

My brother was driving my car at an LRP HPDE event the other day. At the end of the 1st 20-min session pulling into the paddock, the temp light went on and coolant had blown out of I believe the top of the overflow. Coolant in there was boiling. Didn't overflow again (nor light) for the other sessions but could hear it reaching high pressure with whistling. After each session, the overflow was at or near the top. Certainly was pressure in the rad. 

No engine mods on the car. Water pump replaced 15k ago (with TB). Unsure if thermo and coolant were reused or not then. Coolant color is slightly dirty green. 

Admittedly, it WAS 90°+ that day and it was HPDE, so harsh conditions for sure. That being said, my bro was not pushing the car as hard as I would have been (thankfully I suppose).

I'm wondering what to do about this, if anything. I DO plan to do more HPDE. Never had a cooling problem prior, though never ran the car that hard. What are your thoughts? 

I had a mystery shake sporadically at highway speeds, off and on (more severe when on) braking. Turns out a pad's guide tabs & shim had built up so much rust and brake dust, that the pad would stick partially engaged in the bracket. Took em out, filed things down and touched up paint, shake-be-gone.

I'm kinda hoping my oem clutchfork will fail so I have a better reason to swap in the 26mm FSB

Uhg, enabler. Now I have +1 component added for a future clutch job.

I installed this on my 2011 2.5i

 

24222-CLU-CL

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/clutch-lines/goo-24222-clu-cl-goodridge-stainless-steel-coated-clutch-line

 

Between the delete, above, and fresh fluid.. really made the pedal feel more direct.

Far as I can tell, just the color of the paint. I think the bushings they come with may be different, so that'd be worth looking at, but I think the stampings themselves may be identical.

 

I 2nd that. Same designs. May be different bushings durometer, but the ones on got felt very solid

The rear LCAs were a simple install. I'd recommend them. I just went with the RockAuto brand (ultra power) as they look exactly like Moog pieces and almost had the same part number. Oem design -style. $26 each vs. $89 each, but even the latter isn't a bad price. Both include an offset bushing you can put in there for additional toe adjustment, but those are the ones that require a press if I am not mistaken. I skipped those.

Ditto. Still have it bookmarked for maintenance schedule.

Latest version '13/14 KYBs treated me nicely. Granted I was coming from 2011 mushiness.

Don't know why I waited so long to do this (had the part for last 2+ years). Also installed a Goodrich stainless line off of slave cylinder (gt part fits 2.5i too). I didn't have to do anything special with the union install. Once lines were in by hand, fit into mounting bolt enough and tightened well. Great pedal feel now.

Thanks for the advice. My budget right now is 0 for suspension, so i think I'm going to set front at -2.0 for now and see how it goes. I'll leave the camber bolts in for this.

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to settle on a permanent config. Currently the rear is sitting at -1 & -1.5, and I have camber bolts in the front set around -2.75 to -3. Looks nice, handles nice w/ my old RS2s and 20mm RSB, but I don't feel it's a sustainable DD setup. I'm not dropping the coin or effort on adjusting rear camber, so I'm leaning towards maxing out front camber w/ stock bolts and calling it a day. I know the balance won't be what I want, but I feel like I have to settle on that...

Is there a rough consensus on how much front negative camber is achievable with the stock bolts?

How can I safely add a couple of inches of ground clearance on my 2010 Legacy 3.6?

I often scrape and sometimes high center on back country roads and love my car, I dont necessarily want to trade for an outback, but that ground clearance is what I need.

Also keep in mind you're likely scraping in part due to the uber soft OEM suspension... If you start investing more $, perhaps Konis + 20123 springs would help the cause.

$766 for springs and shocks, are you joking!

The price may sway me to try these when the time comes. Although, I couldn't find much user experience with these.

Hey testa....how would you compare those to the H11's you have in your stock fog housings?? Are the H11's appreciably better than the stock H16's and are the Morimotos appreciably better than the than your H11's?

 

Apologies for the thread jack.

 

testa, could you plz give a comparison of the LEDs vs the H11 upgrade?

^ I hope this isnt implying "stolen"...