rob

Some pictures of my fix;

 

 

 

I decided to put a dab of hot glue on the solder joints to help with strain relief. Of course, I had to use red sparkly glue. I certainly put too much glue down (perhaps hypnotized by all the sparkle?). Now I have a couple small bumps under the leather. Hopefully they squish down a bit over time. If not, I will have to redo it.

 

 

-Rob

Yay, I finally have butt warmth again

 

Thanks for the info wac. I was hopeful I had the wire pull out issue as it is an easier fix. No such luck however. I pulled the seat out and disassembled the bottom cover just up to the middle crossbar in order to pull the element out. Sure enough I also had the burned mark on the fabric, but the wire was still there. I did as wac suggested and cut out the section of suspect wire and soldered in a new 22AWG piece. I put it all back together (with the zip ties, another great tip) and enjoyed the seat all the way into work again today

 

-Rob

Nobody takes vacations anymore??

 

Just picked up an '11 Outback and was interested taking it on a vacation to get to know it better. Anybody have any pix from 2010 or better yet, 2011 that they would like to share?

 

Thanks much.

 

-Rob

I picked up the complete Gates kit from FB;

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/gates-racing-subaru-legacy-gt-timing-kit-s.html

 

It doesn't come with a Tstat, so you will have to pick one up elsewhere. Also I used a new OEM WP gasket versus the one included in the gates kit. The OEM is metal and the Gates one is paper (I think).

 

Just for reference @112k miles, all the components that I replaced seemed to be in good shape.

 

-Rob

Right, my top hose is now leaking after reinstall It is very slight and I think it is only under pressure. I think I forgot to clean the crusty gunk off of the metal pipe and it's not making a good seal.

 

Speaking of hoses, I did order the two small hoses that go from the pump back into the engine. It turns out that I only had enough room to replace one without pulling the rear belt cover off. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the two hoses that go from the WP to the oil cooler.

 

-Rob

I finally finished changing mine at 112k. I would recommend pre-ordering replacement coolant hoses prior to doing the change. I thought of this too late and nobody had them in stock. I bought the full Gates kit with WP and idlers (also changed the T-stat). All still looked pretty good @115k miles.

 

This was my first subaru timing belt change. Holy crap that's a lot of marks, lines, pulley's and idlers Thanks for the info and the tip on holding the pulleys. It was all very straight forward.

 

-Rob

Are there any fitment differences with the '11 LGTs? Specifically I am wondering about '06/'07 17" WRX wheels.

 

Thanks,

-Rob

Ok, thanks for the confirmation guys. I'm sure it's obvious once it in front of you, but hard to visualize just from the description. Now it's clear

 

Spark plugs aren't that bad....cmon

 

-Rob

Alright, so one vise grip, but you are clamping the top gear to the bottom gear?

Vice grips work great, BTW.

 

 

Again, just to clarify, this means vice grips clamping the upper pulley to the lower pulley on both sides?

 

-Rob

Just use a pair of vise grips to hold the top cam to the bottom cam. Worked fine for me last week.

 

This means vice grips clamping the upper pulley to the lower pulley on both sides? I wonder if some quick clamps would work as well....

 

-Rob

Another ebay victory. I bought 2 of these ;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190387288525&viewitem=

 

Was $147 total for both including shipping. Brand new, no core charge. Perfect fit.

 

Enjoy!

Just ran across this thread. Very interesting. No wonder I had such a bitch of time finding a new GRP Seems a bit of a shame that my 1 of 58 spends it's life serving as a heavy duty family hauler. Owned since new and is now approaching 100k. Sad thing is even if I wanted to replace it, there is NOTHING I would be interested in replacing it with. Man now I feel like I should go wash and wax it up

 

I am used to owning hard to find cars (Celica All-tracs, Supercharged MR2s, '00 Impreza RS), but 1 of 58 is surprisingly low.

 

Thanks for the data.

 

-Rob

It can be done without. I removed the axles because I was struggling with my poor jack choice.

 

On removal or install?

3) I did not. I didn't plan on removing the axles so I didn't have the seals to hand. Also I figure that getting to the axles is a 20mins/side job that I can do *if* they leak. They haven't.

 

Ok you planned to not remove the axles, but in the end you had to anyway? So it is a required step after all?

 

-Rob

 

 

 

My emphasis.

 

Something like this:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178

 

opps sorry misread the post. My brain conveniently removed the word tranny from the sentence and I saw "floor jack"....nm, I am dumb

You recommend a floor jack from HF to move the tranny?

Cool. This is very timely as my throwout bearing just started making noise last week (93k miles) and I am planning on the full clutch job in a couple of days. After some research I plan to move to the '07 LGT setup (disk/PP/Single flywheel).

 

A couple questions that I might have missed the first time looking through the videos;

 

1) Did you hook up the engine puller on the motor to keep it level?

 

2) It doesn't look like you drained the fluid. Does it not spill out the prop shaft connection and front axle holes?

 

3) Did you replace the front axle oil seals? The sube manual list it as a step.

 

4) Is it not possible to use one or two floor jacks to slide the tranny back?

 

Thanks again for taking the time to put these together.

-Rob

I don't believe I have ever received the letter from SOA. However a couple of days ago the fan started running non stop and I remember reading about this issue.

 

My question is, has anybody taken their car in for repair under this service bulletin who did not recieve a letter and was out of warranty? I am just wondering what kind of static I am going to get.

 

Just FYI, mine is a late build '05 model.

 

-Rob

Interesting that I have never had this problem, but mine is a late'05 (June?) build.

 

Probably worthy of another thread, but here is some interesting data on TopTier.com pulled from a BMW forum;

 

What, exactly, is this "Top Tier Gas" web site? It doesn't disclose any affiliations, so some investigation is warranted:

 

nwhois toptiergas.com

Registrant:

National Products Group (DWZWSDYIHD)

P.O. Box 3475

Tulsa, OK 74101

US

 

Domain Name: TOPTIERGAS.COM

 

Administrative Contact:

Denny, Jim (18276434I) ynnedj@aol.com

P.O. Box 3475

Tulsa, OK 74101

US

9188368551

 

Hmmm. Not too informative. However, let's Google on the phone number. There are a large number of hits, most of which point to a "Quik Trip Corporation", which operates a large number of gas stations in that area. A Google of the Quik Trip web site reveals that Jim Denny is their Vice President of Marketing.

 

In fact, they have a "Top Tier" gas item on their web page (here).

 

How likely do you think it is that the brands listed on the Top Tier web page are the same ones that Quik Trip carries? And what are the odds that a gasoline retailer is actually conducting the studies needed to actually rate gasoline quality?

 

The Internet is a wonderful thing, but one has to be cautious about any "facts" which are posted without substantiation or references.

I found the Diagnostic face plate TSB to be very interesting....

 

I wonder if a simple face plate replacement would give you MP3 capability???

 

Good thinking...

 

<wheels a spinnin'>

 

Assuming that works, then I would wonder if swapping the MP3 faceplate for the STD one would enable MP3 functionalily? And if THAT works, then all we need to do is figure out how to force the STD plate to behave like the MP3 faceplate

 

Hmmm...now all we need to do is find someone that has both units to try out.

 

-Rob