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goBlue

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Posts posted by goBlue

  1. Instead of creating a new thread I'm going to add to this older existing thread.

     

    After 75k both of my license plate bulbs have finally burned out. Thought I would post some pictures of the change out process since I didn't see any in the existing threads. I accessed the bulbs by removing the trunk liner. The entire process took maybe 20 minutes.

     

    I mistakenly installed 194 type bulbs instead of 168. While identical in appearance, the 194 has a lower lumen output but a higher rated life than the 168. I wanted to go LED, but couldn't justify $10 per bulb + shipping.

     

    Hope the pics help for anyone wanting to change out bulbs.

     

    Just did this today, to simplify for everyone, you do not need to take out the whole panel, just remove the two plastic pop-its/clips on the side, pull down the panel and reach your hand in there. Twist to get the bulb socket out and carefully pull out the old bulb. Put in your new bulb/led and reverse the steps. Get LEDs as they are cheap nowadays.

  2. What is so illegal about removing the reflector? I've never heard that...is that just in some states or nationwide?

     

    there's a reason why JDM version doesn't have the orange reflectors and the USDM one does.

     

    North American regulations also require amber front and red rear side-facing retroreflectors.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_lighting#Retroreflectors

     

    it's technically illegal to "clear" the headlights. :rolleyes:

  3. Just did it today, got very frustrated with the "pull-out" method in addition to the very uncomfortable working position, I just cut it. I can confirm that you only need to cut the blue/black wire. I never cut the brown wire. Cutting the blue/black wire will get rid of the dashboard DRL warning indicator, both low beam and parking light DRL's. I won't sell my car any time soon so I'm not too worried about it.

     

    I was very upset that Subaru had to change the wiring for the 07's to make the DRL disabling process so much more difficult. If they were that concerned about safety, they should have used the JDM taillights instead of the USDM ones with confusing red turn signals.

     

    So now my Legacy is HID-ready...I hope.

  4. well up here, there are only 3 dealers in AK. 1 in anchorage, 1 in Juneau, and 1 in Fairbanks. being that this is AWD capital, getting a great deal is not easy since you can't just drive 10 miles to the next city or town to another dealership. my LGT i got a great deal because i knew they needed to get rid of it. THey were willing to negotiate with me. The STI is a different story. they will sell it full MSRP along with a 10% dealer mark up. so we paid just under $32K for our STI that was priced at $35,500.

     

    the downside with the VIP program is that noone seems to know anything or ever actually answer the phone they give you to call. we're still waiting on some pwk to finalize our deal and it's really annoying! so if you plan to use the program and order a vehicle. don't get the pwk about 2 wks before it's scheduled to arrive because it expires in 45 days from teh date of the original letter.

     

    Yea it's a little different up there. Fewer dealers competing=bad for buyers. I find it harder to negotiate a good price here in Michigan too maybe because they sell fewer imports here. Besides using the VIP program, getting the Subaru credit by Chase wouldn't be a bad idea either...it gives 3% cashback towards buying a Subaru and getting services at dealer. Anyway, good luck! :)

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