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Posts posted by sduford
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Technically, it voids your drivetrain warranty. However, from I understand in the USA at least, Subaru would have to prove that the damage was done by the AP.
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42 is pretty cold. Most cars put out around 50 degrees F.
My cold weather strategy is to shut the system off until the water temp gage has started to move. My thinking is that putting it on before that will call for heat and just increase the volume of cold fluid that has to be warmed up. Anyone ever test this theory?
When you put it in Auto it does that for you. Starts at minimum and goes full balst as the coolant temperature goes up. That's the only nice thing about this ACC IMHO.
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Thanks for that info, it confirms my fears.
I don't think Subaru actually spent more then 5 minutes on that system, so talking about "design" is a big overstatement!
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does the ac compressor momentarily turn off automatically when you floor the gas pedal as in some other vehicles?
Yes it does
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Boost should level-off at 3500 RPM. There should be a very noticeable difference above that, but below that it feels pretty normal.
Perhaps you're not doing the RT map switch properly?
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It always pretends to be dual zone, there is no way to tie the two sides together. But in reality, it is never dual zone. There is only one temperature sensor, on the driver's side.
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I didn't say the ECU wasn't adaptive. I'm saying it adapts to driving conditions (fuel, temperature, air densitiy, etc.) rather then to the driving style of the driver.
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Not sure that I agree with that. With the adaptive learning that many cars have (besides Subaru), the adaptive learning will fine-tune to your driving style. With a fresh AP base map load, I always feel a difference right off, but it does improve over time. I had the same situation on my previous Fords after doing resets to the EEC-IV ECUs, both with & without chips.
I think that is a myth. The transmission might adapt to your driving sytle but the ECU spends most of it's time trying to adapt to the fuel/air/temperature conditions and keeping your engine from detonating itself to pieces.
In my case, the 91 octane we have a round here doesn't seem to be quite good enough for the engine. So right after a reset it performs great and works smoothly. After 100 miles or os it feels like the ECU has pulled back significantly (probably because of knock) and the stutter shows its ugly head. I don't think it has anything to do with my driving style and everything to do with the quality of the gasoline.
I've tried a few times to put Sunuco 94 octane in it and the power comes back while the stutter completely disappears. That stuff is expensive though...
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It's the other way around with mine. It's awesome after a reflash or reset, but then it gradually peters-out over the next 100 miles.
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Of course, but what you do with your own car is your business. But if you lend your maps to someone else, and blow their engine up...
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My bad, my memory must be failing me. I was convinced I read a few months ago that they couldn't be shared. To share with other StreetTUNER users makes sense. I see a lot of potential liability issues with that though...
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Yeah I was thinking the same thing. If people create maps for certain mods on street tuner can we share? Probably not the best idea since it is car specific but would it work?
That was if another 5EAT had pullies and say an intake we could share?
Nope, according to the literature on Cobb's website, StreetTuner maps are not shareable, they will only work on the AP they are married to.
Until someone figures out a hack I guess...
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How does the valet and anti-theft map work?
For example, how would I "load" either before I leave the car to the valet parking guy or if I go shopping in a mall?
I take it then that most people would have to have the AP hooked up and taken with you when you want to use the valet and anti-theft modes all the time too,...
sorry,..just trying to understand the concept on the valet and anti-theft modes as I cant see myself telling the valet guy "Wait while I load the Valet mode on my ECU,." as he's waiting to park my car and if Im using the 91 Oct base map,..
Yes, they are real-time maps and in order to use them you need to plug-in the AP and switch maps, which takes about 30 seconds.
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here's what i found on nutsack: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=755467&goto=nextnewest
looks pretty ineffective based on the first hand reviews.
http://legacygt.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif
Thanks, doesn't look too good.
nutsack: I love that, how appropriate
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i know the idea has been presented to them and they have economy maps for the WRX. I'm sure they'll make one eventually.
in the meantime i'm not too worried about it, i've seen no drop in fuel economy with the AP installed, and I dont know if a few extra miles to the gallon is woth detuning the engine to me.
I emailed Cobb on this about 3 months agao and the reply was "we're working on it". No timeline was given, and I suspect it is not a high priority for them.
Does anyone know how much fuel economy one gains on the WRX map?
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Why "play it safe" and use the 91 octane map instead of the 93 octane map if you have consistent access to 93 octane?
Many users run the 91 octane map as their every day map even if they always use 93 octane, just to keep a safety margin for the sake of their engine life. You can switch to the R-T 93 octane map occasionally if you want to play.
But, if you're comfortable running the 93 all the time, then by all means do it.
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Prodrive PFF7 - Bright Flitter - 18"x8" 53mm Offset
Nitto NeoGen - P225/40WR18
http://www.subaruchallenge.com/Wills/05/PFF7.JPG
I love those, excellent choice and colour match.
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This aspect is the only aspect that still concerns me.
If during the initializing process the AP reads the stock settings, and you
reflash back to STOCK...why is it not truely back to STOCK?
Also, has anybody with an AP flashed their cars back to stock and taken
their LGT to a Subaru dealer for any....say CEL's or other ECU related issues
to test the theory that the dealer's diagnostic computer CANNOT detect
the fact the ECU had been reflashed with the AP programs?
Or are we still, at this point, relying on the word of Cobb that the AP
is undetectable to the dealer's computer when flashed back to stock mode?
You didn't read me correctly. I didn't say that reflashing to stock wasn't stock, I said that using a "stock" AP base map is not the same as reflashing to stock.
If you unmarry your AP from your car by reflashing the ECU to stock, then you are stock. Although there is still apossibility that SUbaru could detect that your car received some unauthorized re-flashing.
But if you're running an AP stock base map, planning to use another map using the real-time feature, your ECU is still running the Cobb AP modified code.
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If you read the manual, page 17, it says that when doing a Show Current Map, only the base map will be listed.
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1) Since you are going to the dealer no more then 10 times during the warranty period, that's only a total of 20 reflashes if you do it before and after each visit. so I would play it safe and reflash to stock everytime. A "stock" base map is still not stock because Cobb alters the program code, in particular to enable the real-time map functionality
2) I would play it safe and use 91 as a base map and bump it up to 93 when you go to the track.
3) You can now buy the StreetTuner software and create your own custom maps or have your tuner do it for you. But you cannot load a map that was created by another copy of StreetTuner, it must be "married" to your AP.
4) Correct
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That says in AUTO mode it is maximum cool. You said you were using it in MANUAL mode.
If that doesn't work, then you clearly have a defective A/C.
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Did you read the first post in this thread?
It has the answers to your questions...
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No, you should flash it with the map you plan to use most of the time, like Stage 1 91 octnae for me. You should only use R/T maps for temporary use (a stint at 93 octane, valet mode, or the upcoming economy map.)
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Can you run a base map of stage 2 and a real time map of stock?
Absolutely, you can switch to a stock R/T map whenever you want.
Cobb Accessport & ECUTek Info LOOK HERE FIRST!
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