dave g

All what you said would be helpful but not always practical. Real home defense is all about being prepared, having the knowledge, training to do what is necessary to protect yourself and love ones.

........ John Nolte says it Best. ......

 

 

https://www.breitbart.com/politics/2021/01/23/dear-gun-grabbers-whats-best-society-not-my-problem/

 

 

I agree 100%. My point was to note ways to avoid having to shoot toward the front door. Being prepared for real home defense involves planning in advance and layers of security.

What does everyone think of frangible rounds for indoor home defense? Seems like a good option based on what I've read, but you all know a lot more than I do. Please share your thoughts on them. I have a house very close to me and the entryway that someone would break into is about 50' away from the neighbor, so my thinking, and I may be wrong, is that less chance for ricochet and therefore safer for the neighbor's kids if I were to ever have to shoot indoors at that entryway.

 

Opinons?

 

 

Fortify the latch/jambs/hinges so they'll make more noise and give you extra time to respond. Consider a solid wood bedroom door so you can hunker down and let them come to you. 12 gauge? Do you have a home alarm? should turn most intruders back. Simply safe is $25/month. Cellular so no wires to cut, if they even do that these days. Don't 90% of occupied home invasions involve drugs or known cash to be around? And many involve people opening the door to strangers at all hours.

They are 100% different things. A 'post repair' scan is all systems and modules in the car, It will require SSM3 or 4 or a very high end scan tool. The parts store scan is only the PCM and maybe the TCM. The $110 is based on a 3rd party company like Astech doing the scan for a bodyshop after a collision repair. https://astech.com/ if you are interested in reading about them

 

The scan is exactly that, post repair, it does not include calibration (of eyesight) or repairs if any issues are found. Its simply making sure the car has no latent defects in its systems prior to its delivery to the customer.

 

Since you had multiple safety system codes set, I would have the dealer do it to make sure there are no latent issues. Just because the lights went out, doesn't mean there wont be issues down the road.

 

For example - the air bag occupancy sensor is part of the passenger seat and the wiring runs under it. Odds are your airbag light was a sensor short due to the plug being submerged. Unless they see that code, they may not check the plug and harness for water/corrosion forming. Once the green crusties start you may be in for more issues.

 

 

Thanks, that is a great answer.

FYI, I have 2 nearby dealers. Called the closest one. the service rep seemed stressed, noting they have "skeleton crew". Took a drive by, they are under major construction, and appeared that service was working on Sunday in small space. Next one (Bowser) said "come on down". However, service writer there did not recognize the term "post scan", but told me diagnostic scan cost $115. I'll go there tomorrow, the body shop guy seems sharp, and he is the contact with the insurance company.

From the vault. 52-2. Colt SCG .45, 625-6, and Mark ll Comp Target.

This is a follow up to my A/C condensate flood on my vacation trip. Insurance estimate has money to to remove/reinstall carpet and a "post scan" which is $110 on the estimate. I'm going to my local Subie dealer to get a new radio amp, as it was submerged. I had a lot of warning lights a week ago for ABS, Eyesight, traction control, but they've all gone out now that the car is dry.

 

How does this dealer post scan differ from that which is offered for free by the parts store chains?

Update, the people at Hadwin-White were very nice but apologized that they were unable to dry out the backing foam completely due to humidity and despite 3 rounds in the paint drying booth. They wrapped it up and put it in the trunk. It is now drying out in my garage.

Ended up at the Hadwin-White Subie dealer in Conway. He’ll get the seat out and the carpet flipped up on that side and vacuum what they can and let it sit ‘til Friday.

The box under the seat is the amplifier for the sound system.

 

If you had a LOT of water, there's a chance it could reach the connector for the seat airbag and cause that light. The rest are likely just to get your attention because of the airbag light.

 

I had the same problem about a month ago and sucked out a little over two gallons, but it wasn't enough to reach my amp or any other wiring, so you probably have a lot more.

 

Yikes. The airbag light was one of the few to stay dark. As I vacuumed water out at the amp, it would fill back up. Car was parked level. I’m using Allstate’s preferred shop for the dry out if I can so there’s no argument later if I get mold. I can take it to Subaru later for electrical diagnosis back in the Burg if need be.

Ouch.. can either of you take a pic of this drain your referring to? I’d like to clear mine out before this happens, as I’ll be upgrading that amp under the passenger seat in the future.

Yeah, photo won’t upload but pan is behind console and tube exits just to the right of the console by the passenger’s left toes. You have to pop some trim to pull the carpet back in the upper left corner.

The tube just pulls right off and pushes right on. It’s very flexible.

Friday on the way to Myrtle Beach my condensation tube plugged up and flooded the carpet on the right side of the car. It was enough to hear it sloshing before I knew what was going on. I vacuumed out about a gallon of water I suspect there may be another gallon or two under the carpet between the front and the back and the center on that side. The computer module under the right seat seems to have been sitting in about a half an inch to an inch of water. There was water dripping out from the AC fan at one point. .

It’s going to the shop today to get dried out.

I lost all the audio source’s sound except the screen is still intact And shows the source is playing. It has navvy. All the warning lights for the safety features on the dashboard lit up for ABS collision avoidance traction control and brakes. The cooling fan started to make noise under the dash and the AC now works intermittently. The fan seems to start out on high and then gradually slows down and stops totally and if I turn the AC off for a while it’ll start up again.

I was able to blow out the tube with air so it’s draining properly now I was able to blow out the tube with air so it’s draining properly now.

I assume all or most of these things are controlled by the module under the passenger seat or there are wire connectors under the carpet on the right side they got wet and shorted out.

The car starts and drives normally.

It was a guy in Israel on Reddit. Google searches take you strange places.

From what I figured out finding a place to wire my own boost gauge, that empty location has ignition power, and it stays hot while cranking. Must be that it does something in a different market?

Maybe its for that feature I've heard about in some other country that raises the windows by way of the FOB .

Does that slot have fuse terminals in them?

 

Maybe that is a spare fuse but weird to find an empty slot without losing its listed functions. Unless someone has been mucking arojnd in there. PO maybe if any?

 

 

I think there are terminals there, I'll check tomorrow. It is 11 floors down.

 

Odd that Burning Monkey has same position empty, and that I had a loose 35 amp fuse floating around.

" PO maybe if any?" Not sure what you mean there, Scubaboo.

Was cleaning out the interior for spring, found a 35 amp fuse under the driver side mat. Checking the fuses, a 30 amp fuse is missing in lower left corner marked "P/W Main 1". Windows work and everything else as far as I know.

Anybody know what this is for?

Wow, I have never seen a hole in the rim like that from a flat tire. I wonder what you hit.

Whatever it was got flung out and left marks on the wheel well liner. Briefly it felt like a flat, then smoothed out. The Advans have mighty stiff sidewalls.

If there was room in the truck recess for a full size spare, that would be one thing.

I kept it in the recess. I just left out the foam spacer. My Accord had room for an 18" spare. My 2013 has a full size 17" in the recess.

EDIT: the spare is a 215/45/17, so it is 1.5 inches less in diameter than stock.

I had a flat at night about 200 miles from home in 4th gen. I drove through the WV mountains at about 50 MPH and felt like a sitting duck. Car was fully loaded and no additional spare. My wheel also had a hole in it from whatever pierced the tire, so tire repair was no option even when I got home. Ordered 2 used wheels and have never been without a full-size spare since.

AWD does not help you stop or steer on slippery roads, the situation where you are most likely to crash. Otherwise, with Subaru AWD, A/S tires usually just cause a delay in forward propulsion, as a practical matter. That is just an inconvenience. A delay in stopping or steering is certainly another matter. With proper winter tires, you can actually use boost in snow. And you get fewer surprises when it is icy. But you have valid reasons to compromise.

I pulled the stock h3 out of my 05 Gt and put in a Gold, then went to the Nightbreaker. Here is a pic of the stock and the Gold bases. What does your new one look like?

I took off the license plate and removed the 2 screws behind the plate. Then I removed the plastic panel by popping the fasteners. Then I popped out the panel with the lights in it and removed them with no contortions.

I can imagine there are some times when it would be desirable to run fogs only. In a bad snowstorm here, many folks were blinded by their own low beams and found it easier to see with the headlights off, even without fogs. Gotta limit your speed, though. I set up fogs on my other car to run by themselves. My Pa inspection mechanic simply disconnected them at inspection time, since they are only supposed to run with the lows.

Of all the various cars I've driven, I truly think that the Legacy's factory projectors are among the best that I've ever experienced, in terms of traditional halogen-incandescents.

 

This is my first car with projector lenses. It occurs to me that my 65w low beams may be washing out my fogs to some degree. I would consider viable fog mods.

I have the whole Stern package: the Rallye lows, HIR highs, and the Gold fogs. The lows are plenty bright, but I hate the horizontal cutoff of the Legacy headlight pattern. That to me is the biggest limiting factor in seeing forward with the lows. I rarely get flashed, and it is usually when someone is too close for me to flash them back. The HIR highs are fantastic! I canceled my driving light installation after installing them. Total confidence at night. The fogs are a slight improvement, but I don't think it is a shortcoming of the new bulbs. I just don't think the housings and lenses were designed by Subaru to do anything very useful. It is just hard to discern the extra light they produce when they are on. The fogs in my GTP, SHO, and the round aftermarket fogs from Kmart all performed better. They threw extra light wide and close that was useful on dark rainy nights and in fog. I've had all the lights since Feb/March 2007 with no burnouts, but I rarely use the fogs and I drive only 1000 miles a month. My DRLs are active.

I asked because I have seen heavy snow to the point where it was impossible to even use your regular low beams and drivers were going on just parking lights because they coud see better (This was on the interstate, coincident with an ice storm). Granted that is a rare extreme here in S.W. Pa, I really like the idea of being able to kick the low beams down to the DRL level at will, especially with the Rallye 65Watt option. TRS, how did you wire your DRL to work with the normal complement of other lights (dash and rear)on? I don't need the fogs to work by themselves, although I could have used it that night.

Waht about using the 65Watt low beams in fog or heavy snow? I have a concern the brighter lights would be too bright (like using high beams) . Anyone have a comment on this? I would not want to spend $50 or so on low beams and find I can't see as well in fog or snow because of light bouncing back at me..