02BlkRex

^^ Thanks..... day #3 today and I had to take off work to finish. 23 year old bolts don't like to move.

 

 

So what's your take on this. I found a guy on craigslist, garage mechaninc. He said he'd do my wife's timing belt for $150. He comes over, monkeys around for 2 hours, and cant get the crank pulley loose, so he puts the few things he took off back together, replaces the serp belts, and leaves. He wanted me to pay him $90 for NOT getting the job done. I said no, offered $50, and he asked for $60, which I gave him to get rid of him. Did I go cheap, or was he being unreasonable?

I wouldn't have given him squat. He was paid to do a job, not by the hour and he didn't do said job...

Well i did some testing on my 08 and it seems as if subaru went back to the old design.

 

just unplug the white connector and your all set. high beams and fogs still functional, no headlamp Drl's or parking lamp drl's

no need for cutting wires or removing pins out of the harness.

stupid SOA. they finally get something right and I buy the one model they screwed up on.

I think the point of the thread was to disable the headlight so it would be running 24/7 with the HID bulb in there, I'm sure some people (such as me) still want parking lights to come on since that's not hurting anything, but want to have control of the headlight bulb, which would be the brown wire removal. If this thread was disabling DRL with no reguards to HID's, then I'd assume the brown wire would be pointless topic.

whatever. cut the brown and keep the parking lights or cut the blue/black and choose when you turn on ANY of your lights. to each their own. i do not plan on running HIDs but i wanted all DRLs off.

The brown wire is "productive" when you still want use of your parking lights, some people might want everything off, while others still might want the option of having parking lights, so it's more of an opinion of how you want it done, then being "productive" or not.

You can still turn only your parking lights on when cut the blue/black wire. No, they don't come on automatically anymore but I thought that was the whole point of the thread...to be able to choose when you want your lights on and when you don't.

I cut the brown wire and it disabled the DRL's but I lost my fogs and my high beam. Is there any way to just disable the DRL's for the HID's but keep the fogs and high beams?

Yes, cut the BLUE/BLACK wire ONLY and do the "fog mod" found somewhere on this site. The brown wire does nothing productive when you cut it.

Which (one wire)? Brown or Blue/Black? I woould like the parking lights on but no headlights or tail lights.

Just cut or remove the Blue/Black wire and then you can turn your parking lights on independant of everything else. This will also turn on your rear parking lights as well though.

There's a setup option in the Navi System, just hit the Info button and on the top row there are other buttons. You can change settings for the alarm system also, such as sensitivity for the perimeter alarm.

I don't have the navi system...and I see where he posted that bit of info now Sorry. So I'm guessing then that you HAVE to have the navi to be able to do this?

I guess my last post was missed. Everybody is thinking it's the XM unit or Sub. My problem was solved after replacing the Radio Head Unit/Climate Control Unit.

 

I've noticed that my option for my rear defroster to turn off after15 minutes or continuous on is now only turn off after 15 minutes. I don't have the continuous on option anymore Anybody with a spec.B or navi system verify that they do have an option for this?

I had my HU replaced and still no go for me so I'm not sure you've hit the nail on the head. I don't think I ever had the option to to keep my rear defroster on continuosly. Is there a button combo or something that you had to do?

Im having identical problem on my car, died after 2 different week long trips and once after a 3 day trip. This continued even after replacing with a fresh battery, so im convinced there is also a power draw somewhere. I have the XM module and aftermarket perimeter security system as well.

 

Where is the XM module, i'd like to pull it myself and see if that cures the problems.

 

Ed

I forgot about the perimeter security system...I don't have the XM module and a lot of people don't either. How many of you have the perimeter security system? If everyone does, maybe we've found our problem...?

I though someone in another thread said the dealer could turn them off - there are other settings that the dealer can change on these cars too.

I think they meant the dealer could snip the wire instead of you...I could be wrong though. The dealer is likely to only do this if you have a valid reason like going through the gate on a military installation. You are supposed to turn your lights off before you get to the checkpoint so the guards can see you and you aren't blinding them.

Mine's dead - sat for 3 days. No XM, no sub. We'll see what the stealership says.

 

05 LGT 5MT

I'll save you the trip...

You: Hi stealership, my battery is dead.

Stealership: Oh that's too bad, can you bring it in for service in a month?

You: A month?! WTF?!

Stealership: Yeah, we have a backlog right now due to the '07's dying all the time and that is the first available appointment.

You: Well, I guess I'm screwed, see you in a month.

1 month later....

You: Hi stealership, I'm here to drop off my car for service.

Stealership: Ok good, sorry we don't have any loaner cars for you but we are gonna need to keep your car for 3 days to try and duplicate the problem.

You: Crap, that sucks but I guess I will call a friend and have them pick me up and take me to work, etc.

3 days later....

Stealership: Ummm...yeah, we ummmm couldn't duplicate the problem or anything. Sorry. Here's your car back.

You: @%#$!@#%#^#$@^#$%&$(@_)&$%^@$@$!!

How do you put the wire back in the connector if you want to enable the DRL again later on?

I'm assuming just push it back into the correct hole until it catches. It has a little clip on it that you'll see when you take it out. Just make sure you remember what hole it goes in (always good advice).

Just did this today, took about 10 minutes. First, unhook the white connector from the DRL module.

http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/DRLModule.JPG

 

On the back side(flat end) there are two indents on the outside. Put a screwdriver in the indent and pop up the tab that goes all the way across the connector. Before:

http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/ConnectorLocked.JPG

 

After:

http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/ConnectorUnlocked.JPG

 

Remove the electrical tape that's closest to the connector so you can move the wires around. Now it takes a little effort. Push the blue with black stripe wire forward into the connector(only goes a little bit) then put a small flat screwdriver into the end of the hole below the metal connector. Push the screwdriver towards the metal connector and the wire should just pull out. Tape it up and you're done.

http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/PinOut.JPG

 

If you don't push the wire forward into the connector, the wire won't unlatch from the connector and you'll just waste your time.

I just did this today and while frustrating, this is a good walkthrough. I have a couple things to add:

1. The plug you need to pull is further back than what it looks in the pic and it is on the left side of the footwell.

2. In the pic above that says "Insert screwdriver blade here", it is actually pointing to the middle hole but follow the blue/black stripe wire and you will see where it goes.

3. What a &%$# to get the wire backed out of there!! I couldn't push the wire forward so I used needle nosed pliers to pull it forward a bit. I had to work the screwdriver under it and push back at the same time. Maybe two screwdrivers will work better for some of you?

All in all, I'm glad I did this and thanks for the walkthrough!!

They think your radio is causing the problem? The only reason your radio loses the presets is when the battery drains.

 

 

I have left my map lights on a few times overnight and haven't had any problems. In fact, I think it turns them off anyway... not sure on that tho.

But the car still starts so I'm not sure it's entirely the battery. It cranks a bit more than I'd like but has always started for me so far.

In any case, they replaced the radio today and it is 3 degrees outside now so we will see what happens in the morning.

Did they check to see if there was some kind of a draw on your battery?

 

Update on my problem: So far so good. But, I did lose my radio presets, probably because I left my map light on overnight. I'm working mainly from home this week and I'm gonna let it sit in my garage for at least 2 days and see what happens.

They said they checked and could find no draw on my battery but are replacing my radio anyway. I go in Thursday...

It has been cold again and my car sat for a weekend and started right up with my presets intact. I don't understand. Maybe the dealer found something on accident and accidently fixed it while rummaging around testing?

I took my '07 LGT to the dealer today and...SURPRISE!...nothing was wrong. After much threatening and whining, they finally agreed to order me a new head unit in case that one is faulty. The tech said he checked "everything" out and found nothing wrong. I'm not sure how long it takes to check everything out but he had my car for about 20 minutes tops. Maybe he is just a fast tech?

I got home and the edging around my sunroof is coming off! WTF?! This car has less than 400 miles on it!!

I am having a similar problem on my '07 LGT. Mine has always started so far but it has to crank a bit and I always lose my radio presets. Very annoying. It has been pretty cold out here lately and I don't have a garage but my '02 WRX never had a problem and my wife's '03 Saturn and '07 Forester are fine also.

I have the OEM sub but no XM option. I have a stealership appointment for next weekend so I will let you guys know if they find something. I'm guessing it'll be warmer then and they won't be able to duplicate the problem...

Is there a way to trick the Ebrake sensor into thinking it's on? I'd really rather not cut wires..

 

I guess if there aren't actually any wires cut (if there's another way to break the connection) then I would also like some pictures..

It seems like there would be...any electrical geniuses out there that can answer this?

I know that when you install a navi/dvd player that won't work without the ebrake on, you can get around it by taking the wire that is supposed to hook to the ebrake and grounding it to the chassis.