Andyjo

Sold! For $2000 to a non-forum member

Car is SOLD.

Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Outback XT Limited + Winter package

Color: Black / Black

Miles: 213,246

Transmission: 5 Speed Manual

Title: Clear

Lien: No liens

Location: Windham, NH

VIN: 4S4BP67C256322114

Seller's email address: a.johnson.d@gmail.com <-- Way better to contact me here than PM's on the forum.

Asking Price: $3,000, reasonable offers entertained, would like it gone before winter.

 

 

Background Information

I'm selling my beloved OBXT (again), I've had it since 2007, but have way to many projects to keep this on my list, and i just don't have time for another. The reason it's a project is that when i put the engine back in, it wouldn't idle right, i believe due to an exhaust valve on cyl #2, again just don't have it in me to pull the engine again (and the wife will murder me if she sees me taking the engine out again).

 

Quick history:

Bought it w/ 58,000 miles on it in 2007

Built the engine up at 168,000 miles

Took it out to fix what i thought was a different issue: 213,246 miles

 

SO the car (the good):

NEW turbo inlet pipe

NEW Battery

NEW (in the plastic) floor mats (the rug ones), also has the rubber ones in it, pretty worn.

NEW tail gate struts

Sort-Of-New Tires (less than one summer on them)

COBB access port 3, Bren E-Tune Stage 1ish

BNR16G Turbo

KING Rod and Main bearings

Turbo Oil Filter

Killerbee oil pickup

Weisco forged pistons

Invidia catless up-pipe

Ported & Polished headers/cross pipe

EBC slotted rotors in the front, regular discs in the back, running EBC green's all around - super rusty from sitting

Stainless brake lines all around

Single mass flywheel

Rallitek High lift springs in the back

Have a class 4 hitch on it (2"), and wired up

Custom Aux in - cut into the FM lines w/ a small circuit board w/ audio switch, the actual what i did etc.. is on this forum somewhere

Little red LEDs in the cup holders... can't really tell they're there, but it's a nice touch

Rallitek AL skidplate, not currently installed but comes with the car

Just washed, clayed, polished & waxed (like a week of nights), detailed the inside, conditioned the leather.

 

The bad:

Misses at idle, think it's cyl #2 exhaust valves

Needs a down pipe/downpipe flange -- have a new donut gasket, but the flange is shot. Pipes are currently steel wired together.

The rear seats have carseat dents that won't come out.

I can't find the pop rivits for the engine cover

 

The car also comes with a box of random parts new and used, including ARP head studs.

 

Old listing from 2013 - when i opt'd to just keep it and build it up:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-nh-phase-1-2005-obxt-limited-black-closed-205663.html?t=205663

 

Engine build thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-engine-teardown-and-do-these-o-rings-go-213078.html

 

Sold!

Still have them... they're in the back of the wagon, still looking for a good home!

SOLD!

One set to go...

 

 

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$250 -- need these things out of my basement.

Ok, i get it, they're ugly as sin -- consider them shiny steel wheels...

 

$275, get them out of my basement.

I've had these rims for snow tires on my 2005 Outback since 2007, sadly, that car has met it's end, and i need to make room! These have always been stored in my basement when not in use.

 

 

 

So, the rims are ugly, they have bubbling paint, sure, but they're straight and balance out nicely. The tires are almost like new, i drove them for less than one season, they even still have the injection molded flappers on the sides!

 

 

New the tires run $500+, so I'd like to get $350 for the rims and tires.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A set of OEM LGT rims from the 2007-2009 era. I picked them up years ago for my wife's legacy, which was just totaled.. so don't need these any more! They are in relatively good shape, dirty, a few scuffs and corrosion at near the centers, always stored in our basement when not in use. Would make a great set of rims for snow tires.

 

I was planning on putting new rubber on them this coming summer season, the vehicle was out of alignment for who knows how long, so if you buy them, plan on doing the same.

 

$300 takes them, i don't have a vehicle that the will fit in the back of right now.. but hopefully that will change in the near term!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Max!

I didn’t realize NAPA had that, I was able to fine one online at iWire, I’ll definitely check out NAPA next time I screw up a connector [emoji16]

 

 

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Not sure this is the right forum for this question, but it’s got a turbo, so why not...

When trying to figure out why the engine was running funny (unrelated issue), fixed it, I had to push around the wiring harness a bit, and the wires that go into the coolant crossover pipe sensor (temp sensor I think?), that’s right behind/under the alternator came right out!! [emoji33]

I tried unsuccessfully to snag the tiny bit of copper w/ solder, just made a burning plastic/rubber mess...

SO! Without replacing the wiring harness for a stupid plastic connector, anyone have any ideas? Or know where I could get the connector with pigtails to tie back in? I’m going to call around the local junkyards to see if they have a harness I could chop one off of.. does anyone know if it’s the same part on all 4th gen Subaru’s? That might make it easier to find...

BTW... this rebuilt engine is up to 213k now [emoji16]

 

 

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Turbo inlet, or throttle body inlet?

Throttle body inlet is easy, yank the intercooler off and it's right there.

Turbo inlet has a lot more plumbing attached to it, and is easy to rip, and takes removing quite a bit more....

Didn't get a picture... But we stuffed a 42U Dell server rack in the back of my wagon the other day... Hatch didn't close

+1 on the stock EBCS location! That's where I ended up putting mine too.

You should be able to get 1/4" vac OR fuel line at any chain auto store (auto zone, advanced auto, etc...)

I think I just used fuel line

I actually would have preferred a true wood stove, but we don't have any good wood on our property, all junk pine. That said, the pellet stove is pretty nice, not as much of a mess, and I don't have to split logs

I'm pretty sure it works with all the doors.

 

It has a switch like the dome light.... On-Off-Door

 

 

My 05 OBXT, the trunk light only comes on when you open the hatch, regardless of the switch position it doesn't come on w/ other doors. Why I know? Because I've toyed w/ doing the same mod as I did w/ the front.

Red OBXT, Londonderry nh, hanniford parking lot... Right now

GS includes two 90° fittings and one straight with the LGT model, but I always felt that 3 90s would be better as it wouldn't interfere with the alternator as much. Maybe I can let each buyer choose.

 

Depends where you mount it

 

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/2119_zpsf43dc3e0.jpg

800lbs of pellets?

Or as my friends would suggest, Wood & Beer, all you ever need...

In the spirit of not buying new parts, it turns out there is enough cable on the body side to snake through to the hatch, where you can VERY CAREFULLY un-crimp the coax connector, and solder the new length in... the signal wire is TINY.. but you can do it...

It's amazing how many radio stations i get now!!

Turns out i need a new coax line from the antenna amplifier.... My botched attempts at splicing it back together were not successful....

Figured out my radio issue.....

Back to the soldering iron...

So to make sure the solders don't snap we put a larger piece of ridged heat shrink on the joint areas (can't see it in the pics, it was tucked in the boot), and then when stuffing the wires back in made sure that ONLY the silicon jacket'd wires were mobile.

Here's a video of how flexy it is now

http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Andyjo07/media/IMG_2902_zpsfbf2091a.mp4.html

 

While i'm editing like an idiot...

If you just blindly chop the whole harness (like i did... ) be warned that there are some duplicate white color/combos

I don't think it's a huge deal, i believe the two 16awg black wires are ground, so who cares if you swap them, and the other two were green w/ a silver dot, not sure what they go to... maybe we got lucky, but everything seems to work.

My radio still only gets 4 stations though... time to dig out the FSM and see if it's the other side for that....

I was off too I guess, couldn't get a good measurement w/ the wires all bundled up. Most are 20awg, and there is one or two 16awg.

I ditched my pipe dream of pinning connectors because I didn't want to wait/pay for them, so I got some super-flex wire from work and went to town.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/19/yhejuges.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/19/aqemutuh.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/19/epupubav.jpg

It's nice and fleet now! And we sprayed some silicon in there for good measure.

Just chopped a piece out, measuring around 26-28 awg

I'm ordering some ultra-flex from mcmaster carr, and some industrial 'samples' from molex... we'll see how it goes

I think the combination of the ultra-flex wire, with some ridgid(ish) shrink tubing over it, plus some silicon in there to keep the rubbing to a minimum will overly fix the problem