maniaxzero

Lol, I see that wagon all the time. Not sure if he's on here though.

where in bk are you?

Spotted a beautiful black modded 4th gen wagon parked a few blocks from where I live in bath beach brooklyn.

http://i.imgur.com/Y0PQdAQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FWxwKZy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oX77rME.jpg

Here is the video of them switching from white to blinking back to white. It starts kind of quick, but the transition back is totally there Enjoy! also it is from a cell phone.

 

http://vid1312.photobucket.com/albums/t530/lsamples09/VIDEO0006_zpse01875ab.mp4

Absolutely amazing work. Good job! I love the audi style DRL lights but hate it when it's done poorly. This is exactly what I would be looking for. Hopefully I'll get around to it next spring.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/06/typa3yby.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/06/y6egydu5.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/06/ytene7ut.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/06/azu6yte8.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/06/e3e6uqup.jpg

LSX miata

Tried to do the passenger side bearing yesterday and snapped the bottom caliper bracket bolt in half =(

http://i.imgur.com/vUDUJ7r.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/6j6WHkG.jpg

You might have a rear that's bad. There was a service bulletin on the rear wheel bearings for these cars

Thanks for the suggestion but I already had both rear bearings replaced at the subaru dealer last year. Took advantage of the 8 years/100k miles warranty extension they had.

Thanks for the insight. Went to dealer to pick up axle nut. Not many dealers have it in stock. Got my driver's side wheel bearing done today. Couldnt break axle nut loose with a breaker bar and 3 ft extension from my jack handle. Ended up going to harbor freight to buy the 32mm impact socket and zipped it right off. As for the rotor, took quite a few bangs with my 4LB hammer I bought from harbor freight and it came right off. As for the 4 14mm wheel hub bolts, they're pain in the ass. Wasnt hard to break open with breaker bar but because of rust it took forever to back out the bolts, luckily i found a way to sneak my impact gun in there and cut down the labor and time tremendously. Then separating the wheelbearing/hub from the steering knuckle wasnt too bad. The 4LB hammer really came in handy but I wanted to try out the $9.99 air hammer I picked up from harbor freight, that made the job even easier.

Long story short, PB Blaster, air tools and big hammer really saved the day. Otherwise, god knows how long it would've taken me.

The humming noise was reduced but i still hear it, I guess I have to tackle the passenger side next week when the bearing comes in the mail.

Just wanna let everyone know that this guy specializes in engines and rebuilding them. He also has a few EJ255 and EJ257 short blocks and long blocks that he is selling and if weather still nice, he will also install it for you for the price of your long block. He also has a lot of STI parts too.

Where is your guy located in NYC? And what's his contact info?

I may need some suspension work soon.

I wanna know people found these for 70 bucks. cheapest I can really find is 125 with shipping.

lol I'll sell you mine for 70. I'm in NYC tho

Still havent gotten around to do mine yet but I found a write up on the forester forum. I'd imagine it's somewhat similar to our setup

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/1315326-post84.html

and one for bench bleeding the MC

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f68/bench-bleeding-master-cylinder-118834/

maniaxzero

Little Neck, NY

05 SWP LGT

Just got these G-MAX AS-03(Ultra High Performance All-Season) installed http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....AS03&tab=Sizes

235/40/18

Bought them due to the great reviews. Seems very comparable to the DWS. Had them for about a day, so far the tires have been extremely quiet and smooth. Hope to drive more on them and report back

I took my wife's OBXT to Cobb SoCal yesterday. They installed LGT calipers, LGT spec Stoptech rotors, LGT Stoptech pads, SS lines, and the GrimmSpeed MC brace.

 

I drove 80 miles on the OB today and the brakes still suck. To qualify my observation, allow me to say that I'm an automotive journalist and I drive 2-3 different cars every week, and I'm adept at picking out the subtle nuances in every vehicle.

 

The OB still has a long brake travel, the depression is still mushy, and there is no discernable increase in clamping power. That much is subjective, but even stomping on the brakes for a quick start--it still doesn't feel like it will stop quicker, or in a shorter distance than before.

 

*edit '05 OBXT 5AT, no VDC

 

This STI MC/BB upgrade will be next for my wife's OBXT.

Thanks for letting us know the Grimmspeed MCB just wouldn't cut it. BTW, how did you become an automotive journalist? Sounds interesting

Glad this thread was bumped. Put some in and shifting has been great.

 

I've used uncle scotty cocktail, redline, subaru extra S, castrol, and this fluid is by far the best so far. Time will tell though.

so you feel supertech is better than extra S?

So I put the old plug back in, and my car has been running a little strange since. My voltage used to be around 14.3V but is now about 13.9V, and my gas mileage is down about 10-20%. Intake temps used to be about 3 degrees (F) higher than ambient, but they're now about 20 (F) higher. Additionally it just feels a little sluggish and sometimes stutters before taking off.

 

Along with the plug, I also oiled my K&N filter-- maybe a little too much. I'm guessing my symptoms are from the plug and not oil that could be on the MAF.

 

Any thoughts on this?

I don't think the battery voltage has to do anything with it. As far as the gas mileage/performance. Somehow I feel that it's related to too much oil on the k&n filter since the MAF impacts A/F ratio and is very sensitive.

idk, if theres something a little better why not try it? thats why i asked.

There are followers and then there are pioneers. Columbus wouldnt have discovered america if he didnt venture out as a pioneer. Be a pioneer and be the first to try the pulstars!!!

You can use a small dab of high temp silicone to hold the connector in place. I also use high temp silicone on my vacuum hoses to prevent them from popping off under boost. If you use it on vacuum hoses, be sure not to get silicone in the vacuum ports which could clog them.

Thanks for the tip. I think i will give that a try.

As far as the vacuum hoses and such, I usually use this sealer call automotive goop. Takes a few hours to set but once it does... It's high temp, flexible(expands and contracts with hoses), clear in color, and it it's very very strong. It was recommended to me years ago by a member on clublexus.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Amazing-All-Purpose-Household-3-7-Ounce-130012/dp/B0000A605I]Amazon.com: Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012: Home Improvement[/ame]

did this today @56k miles .. definitely a very doable job. Not as bad as people say it is. Did it without jacking up the engine. Took around 1.5-2hrs.

My friend was helping me and broke one of the clips on the driver side front coil connector. I used a piece of cardboard to shim it. Hope it doesnt fall out when I drive it.

Idle seemed alot smoother. I had a slight stutter before. Some of power is restored. Gonna wait and see how the gas mileage is. If it still sucks, ima run seafoam thru it next week.

these are the plugs I used:

$30 shipped from rockauto.com

http://i.imgur.com/vLptR.jpg

damn this supertech 75w90 fluid was hard to find in local walmarts. Had to hit up a few different walmarts to collect my 5 quarts.

It's been a few years since this thread been started. Anybody run into any problems with this gear oil?

What does an H6 sound like with this done?

+1 would love to see a vid of this

Great to see it's working out for more members. just wanted to clarify something.

Turning the cleavis shorter? or longer than stock booster length cause the brakes to lock up?