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issai

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    Compendium of Tire Reviews: Please sticky

    in Wheels/Tires

    Posted · Edited by issai

    #1) What tire are you offering for review (size, model, type (summer, A/s, winter, race, etc), price paid, miles driven on tires, etc):

    215/45/17 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport UHP. Paid ~$600 / set @ recent Costco special. Driven few hundred miles as daily driver, most recently 80 miles @ Auto-X

    training,

    and 20 miles on track.

     

    #2) What is your geographic location:

    Los Angeles, CA

     

    #3) What types of driving events if any (Track, AutoX, Commute , etc):

    Commute, Auto-X, track

     

    #4) Percent of highway vs. city driving:

    70/30

     

    #5) Tires used previously:

    Nitto Neogen's came with car when I bought it almost 2 months ago. They had maybe 10K of life remaining. Forced to replace due to developing sidewall blister in driver side rear tire.

     

    #6) Your review and personal comments (Dry, wet, and snow, if applicable. Also, please compare to other tires used):

    g-Force NVH similar to my used Neogen's. Naturally, great dry traction. Noticeably more howling when car is rolling on them. Great grip during braking. Surprisingly great straight & turning wet traction, especially in wet mud on a road course (this was during the skidpad portion of the Auto-X training course). Unfortunately, it seems the mud tore up the "brand-new" look of the tire, with very obvious mottling over any surface which came in contact with the mud slurry. The mottled surface is quite soft and has a texture of gummy eraser rubber. This was on all 4 tires.

     

    However, the jury is still out if the tire produces moderate tramlining, or if my center diff is acting up.

     

    Again, I took an auto-X training course, so I'm not nearly as aggressive in Auto-X as some others in this thread.

    Differential FAQ: Consolidated and made relevant for Legacy owners

    in Transmissions

    Posted

    I wouldn't be at all surprised if VCs also had a failure mode that makes them irrelevant, leaving the differential effectively just an open diff.

     

    I think the Wikipedia entry described a similar consequence for an aging VC diff-- it becomes an open diff.

     

    For those who don't drive hard enough or in weather adverse enough, how would they determine for certain whether a VC rear LSD is acting like an open diff? Would I have to already be familiar with how the car reacts when I swing the rear out in order to gauge whether the VC rear LSD isn't being effective anymore?

     

    I'm assuming the condition of the VC rear LSD could be also revealed by a mechanic + equipment.

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