20lgt06

http://s1182.photobucket.com/albums/x451/jhawk222/?action=view&current=SubaruComparison011.jpg

How she sits on Koni/Epic setup.

 

you have impact damage on your driver rear tire-- see the bubble-- your sidewall will blow out if you dont have it replaced -- how do you like your ride--mines ( epics/koni) seem harsh and jarring,highway is nice and firm i might put my stock springs on i've tried adjusting them every which way .

Got my car back with a cylinder 4 misfire- turned out to be a burnt exhaust valve. -- the block looked great no scaring or abnormal wear. but it was an expensive fix. breaking it in -- hope all is well and i can get another 100k miles anyone with ringland failure as stated its cheaper to by a new block and pray your heads are fine.

Consider yourself very luck

thanks

i'll tell you as soon as i get the bill-- it is in the shop now to replace the valves, with a cylinder 4 misfire , compression came back at 74psi. all others are fine. i will be doing just the side that has the problem.

 

BTW Curious what others have paid to replace a burnt valve, and whether they replaced all 4 or just the two on the side with the problem????

well my cel misfire cyl #4 is back.

 

you can youtube seaform for application use.

 

ANy tips on how to use the Seafoam? SHould I just put it in my fuel for a while, or treat the engine in some other way.

bad intake/exhaust valve? might be sticking-- i had the same problems you have but i drive an 07 with 100k miles. when you replaced your injectors did you use all new gaskets/orings? my misfire code for cylinder #4 hasnt come back yet since i have thrown in a new injector along with a new lower injector gasket.(this is because subaru didnt include one, bought it from friedbean) also seafoam will help those sticking valves.. my car runs a bit smoother. idles better. ( Take a look at you bpv and IC -- any cracks? ) watch my cel come back as soon as i hit submit reply.

 

Good luck

 

Update on my issues. 2005 Subaru Legacy GT ltd. To recount, I was having rough idle, and "lugging" at low RPMs (sub 3000) when accelerating. Seems OK when RPMs get past that. I am getting a misfire in #4 cylinder.

 

So far I have:

 

replaced injector

cleaned MAF/IAT

Replaced Air Filter

Swapped Coil Packs

Checked Blue Tee Vacuum Lines

Had compression check (all > 130)

Replaced the orange o-ring between the intake manifold and TGV

 

I really have no clue where to go next??? Any help is appreciated. Maybe I have been looking at the wrong cylinder. I am looking at the cylinder closest to the driver (rear of engine bay, drivers side in North America). I really don't know what else this could be?? HELP!!

i have the very same issue with random misfire on #4 did everything to resolve the issue. only occurs when the car is cold -- i just replaced the intake manifold gaskets myself -however the cel was still on. something to look at too is the injectors and the gaskets that go on them. they also expand and contract depended on weather. i bought new gaskets from friedbean and the check engine light has not come on since. knock on wood. it wouldnt hurt to use seafoam - works wonders. good luck

Still have the cell light on swapped everything out on cylinder 4 compression test is next:mad:

i did mine the other day - a little tip my tabs ripped off while using a pair of pliers. use a thin small flat head screw drive where the gasket tabs are and then pull the old gasket out

going to do this today-- been getting misfire on 4- thanks for the write up.

does anyone know how many miles before the ecu learns again and throws codes?

Those horsepower numbers are impossible at stage 2. Get a compression check. Failing rings and ringlands can be a silent killer.

 

HP numbers on VF52 tell that to Bren

just to get this straight because there are lots of threads and i have been stressing over this stupid car:spin:

 

Solid CEL light

blinking cruise

blinking SI drive

 

Car runs like there is nothing wrong, no stutter, no hesitation, no unusual noise/knocking

code pulled P0304 misfire #4

 

Plugs were changed 5k miles ago

only 1 high flow cat

99k miles stage 2 334whp/375wtq fine till now.

 

some say

 

gas cap

vac line

fuel inj

spark plugs

coil pack

valves

ringland

 

if the car is running fine what can i eliminate from the list of issues. Ive never experienced anything like this were a code pulls up and the car runs like new.

closest to the driver

 

Thanks-- is it uncommon to have this code and car feel fine... that is my car-- no stutter or stalling.. anything else i can rule out?

I just got a p0304 cyl #4 today I want to swap, plugs coil pack and inj but what location is cylinder 4?

i use to spend 500+ on hid kits but switched to the cheapos, which lasted longer paid 120 shipped on ebay, its all the same to me i think! just remember lower the K brighter the light output

 

 

 

cutting the blue/black wire worked

i couldn't get the damned thing out so just cut it.

everything, i mean everything works--high, low, fog and all other electrical stuff.

 

does anyone recommend a certain type of HID system?

 

i'd like to get one for about $120 to $150, i found a bunch on amazon.com but does anyone recommend a brand?

thanks

Which (one wire)? Brown or Blue/Black? I woould like the parking lights on but no headlights or tail lights.

 

wow when i first started this thread i dont know if anyone else figured out another way to do it.

 

what worked for me and is on the 1st page is

 

cut

 

Brown -- low beam

blue/black -- front and rear park lights

saw a dark gray lgt with rims, definitally lowered with an AEM plate frame at petco parking lot in Avon Ma across the christmas tree shop

20lgt06,

did you notice if your headlamp relay "sounded" louder? I did this mod and maybe its just me, but the relay seemed to click louder?

 

Oh, and I decided not to cut the wires.....old motor swap trick: pull the pins out of the plastic connector and tape back the wires. Fully reversible if needed.

 

Thanks for the wire designations though.

 

 

 

 

no didnt notice any louder clicking, im using an HID kit

What about DRL indicator on dash? Will it turn OFF if I disable both (headlamp DRL and park lights DRL) or any one of them?

 

Thanks!

 

if you cut both wires then yes, if you leave one or the other the drl light will remain on the cluster

hold up..... the parking lights stay on with the key on IGN ???

 

no,

 

the park lights of the DRl stay on if you dont cut the wire

Okay, there is 1 white plug and when you unplug it, it turns off the DRL but hibeam and fogs dont work. I had to cut the BROWN wire which disables the low beam drl but the park lights remain on. (Thanks to the previous post )

 

I didnt want the park lights on so i tested the wires and cut the blue with black strip, which disables the park lights drl.

 

all is good im happy.

 

next mod sti front lip and perrin axel back on its way in the mail

there is more then one plug under there I unplugged the wrong one the 1st time i did it.

 

 

Im going to check again, thanks for the help, i will take pics under there if there is only one connector, if so subaru did change things on the the 2007 .

 

i guess i have to wait for someone to figure out how to hard wire them some how

You may have unplugged the wrong one, if the wrong plug is gone you will lose highs and fogs but LOW/DRLs will stay on.

 

 

there is but only one plug down there

same thing happens on my 07. no DRLs = no fog lights and no high beam.

 

I found an old post about snipping the brown wire that controls the DRLs

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=365165&postcount=20

 

not sure if it would work for MY07s

 

 

u do it first and let me know if it works:lol: