doccrowley

I’m sure it is! Any track time? That would be a fun car.

Yes. A year ago I went through front pads and a rotor in an 8- session day out at miller. 8,000 daily miles and one open track day and welded a pad to the rotor. Pad shifted and bound the r front piston in the caliper. It started to transfer the backing plate to the rotor 10 minutes into the last session of the day and I thought I lost a wheel bearing.

That $200 track day turned into $1200 in brake upgrades. I’m scheduled to go out in November.

Doc, what's the details? Im considering a change up.

 

2008 2.5i auto, cloth, heated seats, upgraded head unit with integrated phone, aux and blue tooth, with 110,000 miles on a 2009 motor. 500 miles on the swap that included new radiator, all timing components and water pump. All service records since 9,000 miles, 2 owner car, always serviced at dealer every 5k. Rear wheel bearings are new, front rotors and pads 4,000 miles on them. Has Weathertech floor mats and Subaru rear cargo mat and removable doggie gate. Also has a 1” hitch in place to mount a rear bike rack.

Odometer says 187,200 but everything has been serviced or replaced.

I want $8k for it, retail book is 8,100 before all of the new parts. Motor has 5 more months warranty with unlimited miles.

Hey, Bryce! Been a minute. How's the R?

Crazy unbelievable at stage II with all the supporting mods!

Are you running an OEM recirculation valve on this stage II set-up? My car used to fluctuate with what the 'tuners' called " waste gate flutter". In all actuality it was the recirculation valve bleeding boost pressure that it couldn't hold. It made for some weird boost issues until I upgraded to the FORGE recirculation valve.

Once I upgraded turbos I then ran the Forge valve with the stiffest spring they included and used the additional 2 spacers (or shims) to make it as stiff as possible. I ran that set-up even when the boost was reduced to a 15psi tune for all daily driving.

Maybe that is an issue? If not, go back to your tuner and make sure all is well.

Hey guys, been noticing some weird behavior from my 5EAT with 170k miles lately. In auto mode, it would never go above 3k rpm as much as I press down the pedal feeling like it hits some kind of wall and sometimes when pressing the accelerator down, the rpm would actually drop? In all cases though, the rpm loves to drop back to around 1200-1500 rpm, which makes it hard for me to maintain a good speed on the highway. I am stage 2 and recently had it tuned and the turbo seems to kick in but it isnt fun when it cant pass 3k rpm.

 

Also in manual mode, while reaching the higher rpm (3k rpm or above) it seems very choppy and feels like it struggles. Would resetting the ECU and changing my way of driving help? Maybe i need to drive more aggressively?

 

At lower speeds and low boost (under 2700 rpm) the car feels fine, but once it hits boost and above 3k rpm it just feels weird!

Pre-sale inspection at another Audi dealer came back with compression from 130-140 between all 8 cylinders.

Said it would need rear brakes in the near future and an air filter. That was it.

I hauled ass one more time before I prepped her for sale!

I am moving on to an S4 avant wagon in IMOLA Yellow

Slower car, more expensive to maintain. What the Hell am I thinking??

Who has a friend looking for a wagon? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ut-2006-legacy-gt-wagon-limited-5eat-rallispec-motor-fully-224816.html

MSprank:

You and other folks need to realize they should be paying more for your R&D, experience, trouble and time-saving knowledge that comes with everything you do. Your kit is one-of-a-kind that comes complete. If they want to risk their new turbo to other, less quality designs, or less-researched designs, then TFL when things go south.

I know I paid extensively for one-off turbo filter/supply line issues directly at my machine shop of choice with extensive knowledge in Subaru off-road and racing builds. I got what I wanted but paid out the nose for it.

I also know the line you walk to provide a quality service that goes above and beyond what others will provide. I too, am self-employed and just yesterday received a high compliment from a first-timer that said she had heard that I do a better job than the other guy and was more thorough in everything I do. I charge a premium for what I do, as a result of spending twice as much time as the other guy.

Hang in there and keep focus on the family, child, shop and your sanity! You're no good to the rest of us if you're not in business!

You've been great to me in the past and I know this place wouldn't be the same without your support to the community!

This may be a stretch, but thought I'd also post here:

P0171 code 3 times in 3 days.

Only @ 27-2900rpm cruising freeway speeds and very light throttle. Afr gauge will pop up to 15 from the cruising 14's.

Who wants a guess why I don't have fuel at light throttle??

ID 1000 complete top feed conversion, w their fuel line kit, oe fpr and dw 300 pump in Modded basket and has been run this way since last February. It doesn't run lean @ wot, just very light throttle.

Additional info: temps just dropped dramatically from 90's daytime to 60's max (but tune was done in the 60's anyways) and at idle my volts gauge drops to 12's or even 11's when in gear, at idle at a stoplight and HID's and factory radio are on....

Other than testing for vac/air leaks, looking for where to look next.

No pic but, early this AM I had my honda mower and 2 industrial scales for work in the wagon. At lunch time I put a bicycle in back for a stranded cyclist.

I have had for a previous track day: 8 wheels and tires, 3 extra fuel cans, floor jack, air tank, fluids and tools, helmet and 2 camera bags ( took out spare tire and all related foam plus the rear seat for the wheels to fit). Can't find the photo at the moment.