mvigneau

I would think that if it currently works with the steering wheel controls, that it will work afterward. Because of the language barrier, maybe he misinterpreted the question?

 

He just adds an aux-in, so it shouldn't change any other functionality within the radio.

I am wondering if the ribbon cable was installed backwards?

 

I would verify it is installed correctly and fully inserted on both sides of the board.

 

If it looks correct, I would suggest what the other poster did if your vehicle is still under warranty. Maybe something is wrong with the radio.

We will be waiting....patiently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is it Christmas yet

I took a couple of pictures of the broken roll connector, but I don't think I took any of a non-broken roll connector.

I will be installing this weekend in someone else's vehicle and will try to remember to take pics.

Ok...so I received the new Roll Connector...and installed everything back together.

 

When I tested, steering wheel controls WORKED and...............

 

NO AIR BAG LIGHT

 

YEAH...anyways...I took a picture of the broken roll connector for those that don't know what one looks like dismantled Noticed the severed connections which is why the air bag light was on as well as no more working steering wheel controls.

Ok...

 

I have figured out what the problem was on mine. The actual roll connector wires got disconnected. There was no connection between the radio buttons and the white connector under the steering column. DEAD DEAD DEAD.

 

This is why the airbag light was on. So I took off the roll connector and took it apart and noticed that the crimp wire was disconnected!

 

Unable to reconnect and get the roll connector back on, I have ordered a new roll connector (PN 83116AG02A - $60).

 

We figure that the problem that happened was last time we had the steering wheel off, the roll connector moved and when we turned it back, we turned it the wrong way and while driving, it sliced the ribbon connector that is in the roll connector.

 

Anyways...when you take off your steering wheel -

 

[highlight]DO NOT MOVE THE ROLL CONNECTOR [/highlight]- LEAVE AS IS...It has a limited number of turns and with the wheel off, it will turn indefinitely!!

I didn't cut the wires, but none of those wires should be connected to the airbags because they don't use the yellow(std airbag) connector color.

 

I may cut the other wires just so I can have full control of illumination, but haven't decided yet because during the day, you can't even see them on unless you cup your hand around it to block out the light.

It's the same wheel. I have a 5EAT, and only switched out the buttons anyway.

 

The controls and horn work properly.

First check the fuse panel, to make sure it is not a blown fuse. I would double check that first. Then make sure you have the wires on the airbag plugged in to the correct places. Also check the plug on the roll connector. Then double check to make sure you did not cut or unplug any of the yellow sheathed wires down by the steering column.

 

I am pretty sure that none of the wires in the other plugs do anything for the airbag. So I think your problem lies with one of the yellow sheathed wires. Please report back and let us know what you find.

 

And yes I was in no condition to give advise about air bags last night! Go HENS!

 

 

Ok...I double checked everything today. All plugs were plugged in and tight (air bag, roll connector, etc...). Never touched any yellow wires because I know yellow=air bag.

 

Fuses are fine and none blown (check 2 of them that I could find) unless there are others.

 

So, I wonder what the dealer will do??

I am 99% sure because I remember pushing both tabs back down and pulling up on the connector (to see if it was connected) on the back of the airbag to make sure they were in.

Ok...I installed them into my 5EAT LGT (Automatic Transmission).

 

After studying the wiring diagrams, I noticed that Pin 7 was probably the only pin that would have to be cut because Pin 6 on the B86 connector doesn't have any connection on the side going toward the radio (not the side going toward the steering wheel).

 

So this is what I did. Only requires 2 wires! I used Red White for the Orange White connection and Violet White for the Violet White connection to make it easier to identify later on. Doesn't matter which pin goes to which pin on both sides (pin 6 can go to pin 3 or 7 behind radio and pin 7 can go to pin 3 or 7 behind radio). I tested the controls both ways (pin 6 to 3/7 and pin 7 to 3/7) and it worked both ways. Since they are using the resistance value for the switch, it doesn't matter, but I color coordinated it anyway.

 

I cut Pin 7 at the B86 connector (under the steering column).

 

I spliced in using wire taps (vampire taps) Pins 6 and 7.

 

That's it. The illumination works fine (didn't have to do anything) but is on all the time and looks a little dimmer than the rest of the illumination in the car but I liked the idea of not having to cut any more wires!! So if you don't care about having illumination on all the time when the car is powered and don't care about it not being able to dim when you hit the dimmer switch in the car, then there is no problem there.

 

The only problem is now my air bag light is on.

I had the negative and positive terminals disconnected from the car until the steering wheel was reconnected. After starting the car, the air bag light came on...but i followed the direction EXACTLY.

 

I even torqued down the steering wheel (17mm nut) to the 45nM specifications.

 

Do you think this will be a problem when I bring it to my dealer and they see steering wheel mounted controls???

I would attach your subwoofer cable to the bracket instead of these. Those connect to an IC on the board and act as a heatsink. You could be getting interference from that, but I don't know if that is the source of your problem. You could have a bad set of RCA cables or something else on the Jazzy board. You need those screws in there, otherwise the IC may over heat.

McSquish...I see you installed them on an AT...I have the buttons, but haven't gotten around to installing them.

 

Is there anything special that you have to do? Did you take pics? Are you going to post instructions? Do we have to worry about the shift buttons being tied to the TCU/ECU and throwing any lights?

I have a 5EAT and I DO NOT have illumination, so I would say it is not present.

 

Again...my shifter buttons DO NOT ILLUMINATE when the lights turn on!!\

 

Since I am doing other work to my vehicle, I will be installing these at the same time. I will try to take pics and do some additional investigation to the questions.

Subscribe since I have been spotted by Bu11Dog2

I figured out something even better and it works!! Anyways, I don't want to hijack so check out my Another Aux-In thread for details.

mlrtime - The main differences between our approaches is that mvigneau is trying to up the complexity, and features, on his board a notch by using relays to switch the CD audio & aux-in audio on & off respectively. Essentially, he's trying to work at stage 2 and my board is at stage 1. Mine is totaly dumb, just a few resistors & caps to buffer everything, aux & Cd audio are just spliced together and you play a silent CD so you don't hear both aux-in & CD audio at the same time. His uses a switch and relays to actually switch off CD audio when you want to listen to Aux-in audio. The catch is, the radio is pretty smart, and you still have to have the CD playing to use that sound source, and it mutes for skipping, track changes & disk changes...one of which he's turned off, but the other two apparently still persist...bummer. Oh yea, and obviously the price...because of the increased complexity, he's selling his boards at $100 ea. (last I checked) and I'm selling my much simpler version at $35 ea. Feel free to pitch in your own opinion here too mvigneau...I'm certainly not his representative...it would only be fair to ask him the same question on his thread. [/Quote]

 

Yeah...my solution is stage 2 of his, only I started at that stage. Very nice explanation of the differences. I only have one correction in that when playing a CD with multiple tracks, the audio will not get muted unless you manually advance tracks and it will mute for the second or so.

 

Let me explain (hopefully). If you are listening to the Aux-In and the CD is playing and goes from track 1 to track 2 by itself, the Aux-In will never mute until the radio changes CDs. If you hit the next/back track buttons, then the audio will mute.

 

Hope this clarifies. I don't want to hijack this thread which is why I haven't said anything prior to this and started my own thread.

No Garnet Red option for the trim because:

Garnet Red is a GT only color and comes with Fog Lights already.