legacysti05

Neukam,

 

We appreciate the additional information!

 

Thanks,

 

Some quick information I learned when doing it on my car, I had an aftermarket belt on and I think I had the trim a little too aggressive, It melted the plastic pulley. It may have been the belt that snapped & melted the pulley. Not sure… or just a bad bearing in the pulley locking up, original pulley from 2005.

 

Either way I replaced the belt with a genuine OEM one and steel pulley. I am adjusting the trim and I’ll let you know how it works out.

 

I was disappointed to see Subaru use a plastic pulley. When the belt snapped I don’t know if that’s what melted it. Either way the previous generation used a steel one.

 

Currently traveling soon will send a picture of it installed and the new metal pulley..

 

Got the parts from eBay from Subaru parts Direct.. part number attached..

 

As always perform this at your own risk, as mentioned earlier.

 

I was happy to see A solution where it would give me colder air conditioning as I live in Florida and it is hot as the sun[emoji3508]

 

 

 

 

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Here’s the specs for the pots, if you see anything that’s incorrect let me know..

 

Thanks

 

 

Molence 5PCS WH148 Rotary Potentiometer, 100K ohm 3PIN 15MM Linear Taper Potentiometer with XH2.54-3P Connector Wire Cable Black Knob

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RXPJ6R3/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_fabc_DZZ8N5MYX3D5FPDS2BY5

 

 

 

 

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Those pots should work fine. I think the person responsible for testing the system is the same person that was responsible for aligning the cabin air filter to the access hole in the glovebox.

 

 

Neukam, you are a legend!

 

Thank you for figuring this out for the community! as apparently the engineers don’t know what they are doing.

 

Package is running late from Amazon when I get a chance between work I am eager to get this working.

 

This Amazon one has three cables do you think I should use the black and red cable? Some people in the review saying they were not wired right. I guess I’ll find out... hopefully the wire gauge is thick enough?

 

Thanks again brother, your life saver.

One of the only things I really dislike about the car is the AC.. hopefully this should fix The cycling issue.

 

This definitely should be pinned as I know everyone in hot climates would benefit from this. -At the owners own risk of modify.-

 

 

There’s only 1 million threads of complaints of the cycling issue. This is definitely a problem, back in the day the dealerships were sweeping it under the rug. Or testing it in covered garage with not direct sunlight not replicating the exact real world conditions. I wonder if this could be changed in software on the ECU as well?

 

Jason.

 

 

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Hey I was just looking for this thread

 

 

Glad you found it, i’ll let you know how the installation works out when I have a free minute.

 

Have a good weekend!

 

 

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Thank you for sharing this information! For those of us that live in a hot climate the cycle pattern of this compressor is unacceptable. What are your thoughts of the below, will this work ok? I do not know how this compressor and set up got past the rigorous engineering testing they supposedly have, must’ve been testing it in the dead of winter. I have two cars they both do the same thing.. one has 100,000 miles one has 15,000 miles -05 GT-design flaw. Extremely noticeable when not in motion. Checked all the normal things relay, freon level.. AC filter. I recall seeing Mr. Subaru on YouTube describing our AC compressor as not up to snuff.. supposedly they changed it back to the older supplier after our generation.

 

 

 

 

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Warning for others if you get these codes P0700 P0725.. check the timing belt before restarting the vehicle... I lucked out.

So I have been busy at work but I wanted to provide an update..

 

Thank you for everyone’s input and help regarding this!

 

Great news there was zero damage.. I was amazed! Got all new OEM parts, car started right up. A huge thanks to Wales garage. Ben and his team are amazing! If you have any issues with any make or model within Florida bring your car to the following address. They will treat you like family! Over 1000 miles on the car since repair...

 

Wishing everyone an outstanding holiday and a great new year!

 

Wales Garage! Phone- (954) 763-5506 ask for Ben...

Address: 2916 SE 6th Ave, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316

I bought a pioneer unit that fits in the double din that has Apple CarPlay & wireless.

 

I recently saw these on YouTube.. curious if anyone has installed any of these larger screens in our cars? I’m assuming they will block all vents and shift. What are your thoughts... The only reason I would like a bigger screen is for navigation and backup camera.. My Gut is telling me to go with the pioneer since it will be stable and will fit in the double din and not obstruct anything. Looks like it also has Climate control compatibility for the major brands. I have not emailed them wonder if it would be compatible.. That would save users in buying the JDM kit..

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33022112277.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1575195660266&sk=cyAn808Y&aff_trace_key=ae30efd72fa8429c9730219106d0ccbb-1575195660266-08730-cyAn808Y&terminal_id=fb85346afdce4f33b84b4c6a7e48c56c

 

https://www.amazon.com/Multimedia-12-8Inch-Universal-Navigation-Rotation/dp/B07RV1V5T7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=NKZ1BTTIJW1J&keywords=12.8+car+stereo&qid=1575236273&sprefix=12.8++car%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-3

 

Thanks Infosecdad.

 

I will look tomorrow at the toothed idler pulley in center with cam. I post it in this section so the community knows to not start car with cruse flashing and code P0700 P0725 Hope we can save some people with this aggravation. Check the TB area first before start...

 

Oh, you have duplicate threads...

As I mentioned on the other thread, my money is on the toothed idler pulley seizing which would destroy a cam. It happened to my '99 Outback with DOHC. Need to look behind center cover.

Found this online look like the marks on mine..?

Found this online look like the marks on mine..?

 

Engine update,

 

So I ordered a high megapixel borescope arriving on Monday. I did find a borescope camera in my garage... I doubt it’s even take two megapixels. I took out the spark plug on the passenger side closest to the crankshaft. This is what we can see with the potato camera. What do you guys think please tell me some good news... (: When I get the high resolution camera I can check the other spark plugs but it may be sometime since I’m busy at work. i’m thankful I have a second car was just about to sell it just wanted to make sure the replacement was reliable... ): I have to look at the Engine diagrams but from the crankshaft pictures and the engine it looks like this separated or is this two parts? Basically I took this off with my hand there was no tension at all on the belt on this crankshaft And did not have to unscrew anything. Leaving me to believe that this separated.. manufacture defect? Are there any Service bulletins or recalls regarding this? let this be a warning for our brother & sisters if you get the code P0700 P0725 check the belt do not start car!!!

Thanks awfulwaffle and everyone input..

 

Engine update,

 

So I ordered a high megapixel borescope arriving on Monday. I did find a borescope camera in my garage... I doubt it’s even take two megapixels. I took out the spark plug on the passenger side closest to the crankshaft. This is what we can see with the potato camera. What do you guys think please tell me some good news... (: When I get the high resolution camera I can check the other spark plugs but it may be sometime since I’m busy at work. i’m thankful I have a second car was just about to sell it just wanted to make sure the replacement was reliable... ): I have to look at the Engine diagrams but from the crankshaft pictures and the engine it looks like this separated or is this two parts? Basically I took this off with my hand there was no tension at all on the belt on this crankshaft And did not have to unscrew anything. Leaving me to believe that this separated.. manufacture defect? Are there any Service bulletins or recalls regarding this? let this be a warning for our brother & sisters if you get the code P0700 P0725 check the belt do not start car!!!

 

 

 

Yikes. If you were running the engine at speed (ie driving and not just idling), pretty good chance you have bent valves and maybe a dinged up piston or two. I would buy a cheap borescope like this, pull the spark plugs and take a look in the cylinders for signs of the valves contacting the pistons.

 

https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Semi-Rigid-Inspection-Megapixels-Waterproof/dp/B06WRNGYXY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+borescope&qid=1567821943&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUVRYM0M4R1VCVzVJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI2NTM2R0Q1WFlDMzNLWUg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNTQ1NjcyWTczRDhONldKQTNPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Engine update,

 

So I ordered a high megapixel borescope arriving on Monday. I did find a borescope camera in my garage... I doubt it’s even take two megapixels. I took out the spark plug on the passenger side closest to the crankshaft. This is what we can see with the potato camera. What do you guys think please tell me some good news... (: When I get the high resolution camera I can check the other spark plugs but it may be sometime since I’m busy at work. i’m thankful I have a second car was just about to sell it just wanted to make sure the replacement was reliable... ): I have to look at the Engine diagrams but from the crankshaft pictures and the engine it looks like this separated or is this two parts? Basically I took this off with my hand there was no tension at all on the belt on this crankshaft And did not have to unscrew anything. Leaving me to believe that this separated.. manufacture defect? Are there any Service bulletins or recalls regarding this? let this be a warning for our brother & sisters if you get the code P0700 P0725 check the belt do not start car!!!

Thanks will do. 05 with 12K was in 75 temp garage in FL. before that Mane keep in garage to.

 

Looks like the exhaust cam on the passenger side is gone.

I would bet good money that’s the toothed idler pulley begins the center cover seized up.

 

12k miles? Is that right or a typo? Timing components should be replaced after 10yr or 105k miles. It’s well past 10yr, I wonder if it’s still stock timing components.

 

Depends how much you tried to drive/start after it happened. Pretty good chance that there are bent valves. Small Chance that you are in the clear, but I think it’s pretty small unfortunately.

 

You need to keep digging. That cam is highly unlikely to shear off in its own.

Need to use a camera or mirror to look behind the center cover or remove the crank pulley and then the center cover. I would bet there is more issues under there.

 

Honestly, only 12k miles in 14-15 yrs is really hard on parts of a motor, they are built to run, not sit. I wonder if the grease in the toothed idler pulley hardened from non-use. I would also worry about all the hoses as well.

Looks like the exhaust cam on the passenger side is gone.

I would bet good money that’s the toothed idler pulley begins the center cover seized up.

 

12k miles? Is that right or a typo? Timing components should be replaced after 10yr or 105k miles. It’s well past 10yr, I wonder if it’s still stock timing components.

 

Depends how much you tried to drive/start after it happened. Pretty good chance that there are bent valves. Small Chance that you are in the clear, but I think it’s pretty small unfortunately.

 

 

 

12k yes on 2005, not a typo. My other 05 with 115 is on its original belt changing soon. what would cause this to brake on 12k?? Thanks

Guys, I was driving to another work location and all of a sudden I lost all power and my cruise light is blinking and my check Engine light is illuminated. Please see the pictures below the car has 12,000 original miles it is a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT. I bought this to replace the one I currently have which has 115,000 with zero problems. The oil change was up-to-date and full. What would cause this.. looks to be crankshaft gear to snap off like this? Looks like it was obviously not screwed in or the weld broke. So I had the vehicle towed home on a flatbed. When I got home I ran the codes thinking it might be a sensor or something since that’s what I’ve seen in the past on the forms.. so the codes I got were P0700 P0725. So if you get these codes check the timing belt before restarting the vehicle As you see severe damage can occur. As memory serves me this is an interference engine? What is the chance that the engine is not damaged from your professional opinion’s? I drained some oil to see if there were any metal flakes oil is clean. From the picture do you think all this to be re-bolted back on with replacement parts? Quite disappointed in the build quality as I have never seen this in the previous Subaru’s I have owned. As we know I am well out of warranty.. I know we have a lot more knowledgeable technicians on here than I would like to know your thoughts how to fix. I have a local shop I use just want to know what I’m in for.. I apologize for the poor grammar long day at work.. I am in the fort lauderdale Fl area PM if you can help. Thanks

Guys, I was driving to another work location and all of a sudden I lost all power and my cruise light is blinking and my check Engine light is illuminated. Please see the pictures below the car has 12,000 original miles it is a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT. I bought this to replace the one I currently have which has 115,000 with zero problems. The oil change was up-to-date and full. What would cause this.. looks to be crankshaft gear to snap off like this? Looks like it was obviously not screwed in or the weld broke. So I had the vehicle towed home on a flatbed. When I got home I ran the codes thinking it might be a sensor or something since that’s what I’ve seen in the past on the forms.. so the codes I got were P0700 P0725. So if you get these codes check the timing belt before restarting the vehicle As you see severe damage can occur. As memory serves me this is an interference engine? What is the chance that the engine is not damaged from your professional opinion’s? I drained some oil to see if there were any metal flakes oil is clean. From the picture do you think all this to be re-bolted back on with replacement parts? Quite disappointed in the build quality as I have never seen this in the previous Subaru’s I have owned. As we know I am well out of warranty.. I know we have a lot more knowledgeable technicians on here than I would like to know your thoughts how to fix. I have a local shop I use just want to know what I’m in for.. I apologize for the poor grammar long day at work.. I am in the fort lauderdale Fl area PM if you can help. Thanks

I brought my Subaru to Wales Garage, Ben provided an honest repair cost substantially less than the dealership. The vehicle was fixed right the first time. I was able to pick up the vehicle the same day. If you want your car to last bring it to Wales Garage ben’s team truly cares about the people and vehicles they repair. I had multiple repairs needed. I.E Turbo, axle shaft. All the parts they used were quality and had zero issue. Stop getting ripped off at the dealership and bring your car to Ben @ Wales Garage! Phone- (954) 763-5506

Address: 2916 SE 6th Ave, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316

IT works on a 2005 2.5i Legacy:spin: tested on 4/26/2008

 

 

THANKS trabbic